Clutch Slipping In All Gears.

[7kingdomseeker]

Ok so I just bought my 98 Valkyrie Standard a week ago. The guy that owned it prev. said it sat for a few years in a shed. He bought it and had carbs rebuilt, new tires some new fluids etc.. I road it for the first time up to the blue ridge mountains here in Ga. with my wife. after getting off the interstate I noticed it rev. up in 2nd gear when I tried to give it the gas. then I noticed it did it in all the gears from 2k-4k rpms when you give it the gas. I read the post on here (THANKS) so I changed the oil it was a little dark (not very bad looking) I put Rotella 15W-40. Also I flushed the clutch fluid with Valvoline (3 or4) full synthetic fluid. (should I have only put in straight DOT4?) it said its good for both 3 and 4? After doing both those things it still slips after it has heated fully up, usually around 15 mins of riding. The clutch is letting out all the way but it only has about 1/8 inch before it disengages. is that not enough? Where do I go from here? thank you so much for your help!!

[WintrSol]

My Suzuki has two holes in the bottom of the reservoir: a larger one to keep the MC filled, and a tiny one that releases pressure as the fluid heats up and, if the small hole is blocked, the clutch starts slipping when the engine is hot. For the record, I don't recall if our MC has a pressure relief hole at the bottom of the reservoir, but, if it does, it could be blocked. Cheap to find out, anyway, and easy to clear with a single wire from a brass brush.

[Pete]

Sorry to hear you are having an issue.
Mileage?
1/8 inch measured where?
Any other noise when it appears to be slipping?
Also try it cold startup and immediately ride.

[sandy]

The DOT 3-4 is good for the 4 requirement. Oil: Did you put in oil with friction modifiers? You can't use moly content oil in a wet clutch.

[7kingdomseeker]

It has 30,000 miles on it. The 8th inch was measured from when the clutch is let all the way out it pulls in about an eighth of an inch on the outside of the clutch handle maybe a quarter inch.. On a cold store for about 10 to 15 minutes there is absolutely no slipping no matter how hard you get on the throttle and there are no other noises when the clutch is slipping or just on regular use.. When I flushed the clutch fluid I did see return coming back from the second smaller hole underneath the small metal cover. How do you know if Rotella 15 W – 40 has modifiers in it? I used it because hundreds of other Valkyrie riders said that's all they have ever used. Any more ideas? Thanks for the help so far!

[Bone]

The Rotella 5w-40 is the one to use I've used it for 100k miles with no problems.
The back of the bottles tells you I will see if I can find the pic and exact definition.

[Pete]

Does the oil container say something like "energy conserving" that would be an indication of a high concentration of moly in the oil.

It the clutch was slipping before you changed the oil it could have been improper oil used before and a single change with the correct oil would not be enough to affect the issue. Multiple changes like flushing may or may not help the issue as the moly gets in the clutch lining and is hard to flush out with out removing the clutch plates and using and soaking in cleaner.

Assuming the correct oil  was used all along then it seems you may have a worn clutch, although 30000 miles is short clutch life.

Typically a worn clutch shows up with slipping in higher gears when under load, such as up hill in 5th gear when trying to accelerate.

If the 1/8 inch is between the clutch lever and the lever mounting bracket at the extreme outside of the bracket that is very late and may indicate a worn clutch.

In either case the solution may be new clutch plates.

[Tfrank59]

Well the situation he described, barring any improper lube in there, would indicate it needs the clutch replaced.  1/8" on the lever sounds quite reasonable, and he's looked at the slave cylinder and so forth, so again if he has the right lube in there – and many motorcycle oils tell you if they're OK for a wet clutch – sounds like maybe the previous owner was a bad rider and slipped the clutch too much, so it's already worn out at 30,000 miles.

[98valk]

You can't use moly content oil in a wet clutch.

not true.  most m/c oils including Mobil 1 m/c oils have moly in them.
automotive oils which have friction modifiers, are the problem and should be avoided.

moly is not a problem unless the PPM is 200-500 depending on formulation. last I checked Motul and Redline m/c oils are close to 500 ppm.

[98valk]

Well the situation he described, barring any improper lube in there, would indicate it needs the clutch replaced.  1/8" on the lever sounds quite reasonable, and he's looked at the slave cylinder and so forth, so again if he has the right lube in there – and many motorcycle oils tell you if they're OK for a wet clutch – sounds like maybe the previous owner was a bad rider and slipped the clutch too much, so it's already worn out at 30,000 miles.

and '98 model yrs are know for the early dampener failures. replaced mine last yr with only 42k, rivets came apart.

[Patrick]

How does the clutch act ?  Is it nice and smooth upon engagement [ lever release] ?  If it isn't, then the clutch assembly [ not master cylinder] probably has a problem.
Rotella 15-40 should be just fine to use.
When looking at the release lever, check to see if there is any free-play between lever and push-rod.[ there should be]. I'm wondering if the lever bushing is worn.

[Pete]

You can't use moly content oil in a wet clutch.

not true.  most m/c oils including Mobil 1 m/c oils have moly in them.
automotive oils which have friction modifiers, are the problem and should be avoided.

moly is not a problem unless the PPM is 200-500 depending on formulation. last I checked Motul and Redline m/c oils are close to 500 ppm.

And moly is what?  A high pressure friction modifier.  HUmmmmm
The fact that smaller amounts can be tolerated to some extent does not change that.

Just my 2 cents worth - for the record.

[Michvalk]

You might have a look at the rubber hose used in the clutch system. The can delaminate, causing incomplete release of the pressure. Just look for soft spots, bulges and the like. It's a long shot, but, doesn't cost anything but some time

[Valkorado]

How do you know if Rotella 15 W – 40 has modifiers in it? I used it because hundreds of other Valkyrie riders said that's all they have ever used. Any more ideas? Thanks for the help so far!

The lower half of the API donut on the back label should have nothing listed.  Rotella T6 has nothing listed, and is also JASO-MA (motorcycle) rated.  Not sure about Rotella 15 - 40.  If you still have the bottle around check the circle on the label.

[98valk]

virgin oil analysis

http://www.pqiamerica.com/June%202014/consolidated%20HDEO%202015.html

http://www.pqiamerica.com/March2013PCMO/HDEO%20SUMMARYrev2.html


 the following is from an industrial trade magazine I receive.

http://www.lngpublishing.com/LNGmagazine/index.cfm
this months issue
http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/e9f4b3fd#/e9f4b3fd/1

see article Two-wheelers love oil too!

JASO spec'd motorcycle oil are basically the same specs as heavy-duty diesel oil standards.
JASO does not test oils, manufactures pay a fee to JASO and state their oil meets the specs.

see article, another grade for the heavy-duty upgrade?

[Robert]

If it was oil it may take a bit to wash all the old oil off the clutches. They do absorb the oil so to get the new oil to wash the old oil off and out of the plates may take a bit. Clutch is not fun but its not that bad either.

[Tfrank59]

7kingdomseeker, I re-read your post--are you saying you only have to pull the clutch lever in just 1/8" and your clutch is fully disengaged?  If that's the case, then I'd say it ain't right--somebody else also caught that.  My clutch starts grabbing when the lever is about halfway let out, which I think is perfect.  You may need to recheck the throw-out system.

[Ramie]

If the PO used oil with friction modifiers, it could take a little for the plates to clear it out.  Could also be as others have suggested, you need to re-bleed the brakes or clean out the reservoir. What did the old brake fluid look like?

[7kingdomseeker]

Thank you all for the awesome feedback!! I do need to check the clutch lever, only starts/begins to disengage at 1/8th inch. after taking a closer look at the high pressure return port in the master cylinder it still had a little corrosion in it. I re-flushed the fluid and cleaned the port again. Runs PERFECT!! clutch lets out smoothly!! THANKS!!

[Patrick]

Thank you all for the awesome feedback!! I do need to check the clutch lever, only starts/begins to disengage at 1/8th inch. after taking a closer look at the high pressure return port in the master cylinder it still had a little corrosion in it. I re-flushed the fluid and cleaned the port again. Runs PERFECT!! clutch lets out smoothly!! THANKS!!

Good, glad it was easy. I like easy.

[98valk]

Thank you all for the awesome feedback!! I do need to check the clutch lever, only starts/begins to disengage at 1/8th inch. after taking a closer look at the high pressure return port in the master cylinder it still had a little corrosion in it. I re-flushed the fluid and cleaned the port again. Runs PERFECT!! clutch lets out smoothly!! THANKS!!

Out Standing 

[Tfrank59]

Way to go!   Definitely pays to check the easy stuff first right?  It also pays – we all know this – to check out what our forum brothers think before getting into it too deep