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Jeff Ga.
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« on: October 10, 2015, 07:49:24 AM » |
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1998 Valk Standard, 85,000 miles, stock. Since the dealership does not work on Valks this old.
When idling up a incline there is a scrapping/winding/srubbing sound from drivetrain ( I think ). Not loud enough to hear going down road. Coasting with clutch pulled in it does not do it. Idling around without load it does not do it. That's why I say idling up incline. I suppose it does it while going but I cannot hear it over exhaust...
I have pushed brake calipers back and it still does it so I believe it is not the caliper/pads.
Rear wheel splines greased and not worn.
Rear end dope looks fine and had regular changes.
I have never had any drivetrain work done, other than lubing splines during rear tire replacements. In other words nothing has ever been done or checked on the shaft on either end.
I posted under general for Atlanta area shops you guys might use, but in recent years past this has been my shop. Out of ideas to check.
Thanks
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #1 on: October 10, 2015, 08:39:43 AM » |
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Check the plastic dust cover on the pumpkin to make sure its not crooked, but I suspect its the left rear wheel bearing going bad.
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Jeff Ga.
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« Reply #2 on: October 10, 2015, 10:12:33 AM » |
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I am sorry. I forgot to mention I changed the rear rearing both sides. I will check the plastic cover.
Thanks
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #3 on: October 10, 2015, 11:11:29 AM » |
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I don't know if this is it. But if your driveshaft and pinion cup haven't been looked at as you say, that's what I'd be looking at. 85k is a long time.  |
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Bighead
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« Reply #4 on: October 10, 2015, 12:17:26 PM » |
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Jeff Jack it up and pull the rear tire and final drive and check it out. It is not hard to do.
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1997 Bumble Bee
1999 Interstate (sold)
2016 Wing
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Jeff Ga.
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« Reply #5 on: October 10, 2015, 12:21:49 PM » |
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Had to look up what a pinion cup is. I can take that much apart. I will check it out.
I always wondered if there was any maintenance to be done on the shaft itself...nothing written down in owners manual or Clymer, if I recall.
I will checkout that pinion cup!
Thanks so much!!!
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #6 on: October 10, 2015, 12:34:37 PM » |
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Had to look up what a pinion cup is. I can take that much apart. I will check it out.
I always wondered if there was any maintenance to be done on the shaft itself...nothing written down in owners manual or Clymer, if I recall.
I will checkout that pinion cup!
Thanks so much!!!
There should be some old posts that you can look at to aid you. A couple things I would tell you. After you have the rear out the shaft is held in the pinion with a ring. It will pull out with a little effort. Be careful with the seal when putting it back in. When installing the rear and shaft back in, have your swing arm pulled up level. Reading old posts will help a lot. |
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Rio Wil
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« Reply #7 on: October 10, 2015, 05:02:22 PM » |
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Ditto on checking the piñon cup drive shaft splines, I would be surprised if they are not toast. Also make sure you didn't leave the spacer out between the bearings when you replaced them.
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Crackerborn
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« Reply #8 on: October 10, 2015, 08:08:16 PM » |
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You are also describing the way my yoke acted/sounded right before it disintegrated. If the pinion cup is good, check that while you have it apart.
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Life is about the ride, not the destination. 97 Valkyrie Tour 99 Valkyrie Interstate  |
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Jeff Ga.
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« Reply #9 on: March 12, 2016, 05:39:04 AM » |
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Finally getting around to this 5 months later.
The Clymer manual paragraph 12 mentions replacing the "stopper ring" on the pinion end of driveshaft splines every time driveshaft is removed.
But then in paragraph 15 "do not install stopper ring, it is only used in manufacturing process and does not need to be replaced".
Do you guys leave the original one on to seat back when reinserting shaft back into the pinion cup?
Other than this it looks pretty straight forward.
Thanks
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Tfrank59
Member
Posts: 1364
'98 Tourer
Western Washington
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« Reply #11 on: March 12, 2016, 09:28:23 AM » |
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when you changed out the rear wheel bearings, are you sure you reassembled everything correctly? I'd say just jacking the bike and checking out the wheel (can you detect the noise when you rotate it on the lift?) before pulling it off is a start. the other thing that's a possibility is the u-joint--nobody's mentioned it but it can go out in that many miles.
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-Tom
Keep the rubber side down. USMC '78-'84
'98 Valkyrie, ‘02 VTX 1800, '96 Royal Star, '06 Drifter, '09 Bonneville, '10 KTM 530, '04 XR 650, '76 Bultaco, '81 CR 450, '78 GS 750...
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Jeff Ga.
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« Reply #12 on: March 12, 2016, 09:53:52 AM » |
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I knew you guys would be right. Thanks.
The pinion cup does not have much spline left inside of it. The splines on the end of drive shaft look like they are bend over to the left from all the wear. The universal end of drive shaft looks great since it still has some lube on it and is not dry.
I guess while I am this far I might as well at least check the universal joint.
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #13 on: March 12, 2016, 09:58:43 AM » |
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I knew you guys would be right. Thanks.
The pinion cup does not have much spline left inside of it. The splines on the end of drive shaft look like they are bend over to the left from all the wear. The universal end of drive shaft looks great since it still has some lube on it and is not dry.
I guess while I am this far I might as well at least check the universal joint.
Unless you think the ujoint might be bad I don't think I would. That rubber boot is a BITCH to get back on correctly. At least for me it was. |
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Jeff Ga.
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« Reply #14 on: March 12, 2016, 10:13:37 AM » |
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I don't think it is bad. the only sound I heard was back at rear end.
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salty1
Member
Posts: 2359
"Flyka"
Spokane, WA or Tucson, AZ
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« Reply #15 on: March 12, 2016, 10:15:01 AM » |
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I knew you guys would be right. Thanks.
The pinion cup does not have much spline left inside of it. The splines on the end of drive shaft look like they are bend over to the left from all the wear. The universal end of drive shaft looks great since it still has some lube on it and is not dry.
I guess while I am this far I might as well at least check the universal joint.
Unless you think the ujoint might be bad I don't think I would. That rubber boot is a BITCH to get back on correctly. At least for me it was. If decide to check the u-joint, putting the boot back on is easier if you cut off the tabs that project on the rear of the boot. |
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My rides: 1998 GL1500C, 2000 GL 1500CF,2006 GL 1800 3A   |
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pancho
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« Reply #16 on: March 12, 2016, 03:36:27 PM » |
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Hey Jeff, when you put the pinion nut back on, if you want to torque it correctly you will need the "special tool", and a big vice, or have a way of securing the drive. This is what I do, there are holes drilled in the table that accept the flange pins, and I screw a couple of pieces of 2 by 4 to the table top to hold the drive in place. Works like a champ so you can get an accurate torque.  |
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The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.
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John Schmidt
Member
Posts: 15223
a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike
De Pere, WI (Green Bay)
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« Reply #17 on: March 12, 2016, 04:45:05 PM » |
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Remember, you don't have to remove the swingarm to remove the u-joint. Just follow the instructions in the link below. As for reinstalling the boot at the rear, it can be a PITA but easier if you raise the swingarm up level or higher. That gives you clearance between the top of the s/a and the frame, something you don't have with it hanging down. I use a loooong pair of needle nose pliers, one is a 45 deg. and the other is a 90 degree. I spray copious amounts of regular rubbing alcohol on the entire area, it allows rubber to slide across metal with ease and evaporates without leaving a residue. http://www.rattlebars.com/mtz/ujoint.html |
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