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« on: October 22, 2015, 09:47:56 AM » |
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I have a light bar and a pair of fog lights on the crash bars.
The previous owner/owners have created a birds nest of wiring and relays under the left side cover.
I want to replace the wiring and tidy the birds nest up.
What gauge wire do I need to use?
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hubcapsc
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Posts: 16781
upstate
South Carolina
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« Reply #1 on: October 22, 2015, 10:46:29 AM » |
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There's tables on the innernet to look at: http://www.cerrowire.com/ampacity-chartsLights and big horns and heated-gear leads and air-pump leads draw the most amps of any accessories that I have. 14 gauge is enough for 15 amps. None of the things I listed above should require more than that, unless you try to hook two sets of heated gear to one lead. I guess you have a separate circuit for each accessory. Stay away from that 750 gauge wire  16 gauge should be OK too, but I think there's no downside to 14 except that it costs more... -Mike
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« Last Edit: October 22, 2015, 10:50:18 AM by hubcapsc »
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« Reply #2 on: October 22, 2015, 11:21:10 AM » |
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There's tables on the innernet to look at: http://www.cerrowire.com/ampacity-chartsLights and big horns and heated-gear leads and air-pump leads draw the most amps of any accessories that I have. 14 gauge is enough for 15 amps. None of the things I listed above should require more than that, unless you try to hook two sets of heated gear to one lead. I guess you have a separate circuit for each accessory. Stay away from that 750 gauge wire  16 gauge should be OK too, but I think there's no downside to 14 except that it costs more... -Mike Thanks Mike, I'll go with 14 gauge. I'm going to run each accessory in a different color wire to make it easy to trace a fault in the future.
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hubcapsc
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Posts: 16781
upstate
South Carolina
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« Reply #3 on: October 22, 2015, 12:35:01 PM » |
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I'm going to run each accessory in a different color wire...As I remember, that's where "costs more" bit me in the rear end... After about five years my un-loomed heated gear wire rubbed through and shorted out - I redid everything with looms... can't see the color when the wire is in a loom...  I don't know if this was smart or not, but I used unshrunk shinkwrap for my looms, the only other stuff I could find was that awful "vacuum cleaner hose" stuff - the dog's bollocks... -Mike
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BonS
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« Reply #4 on: October 22, 2015, 03:27:57 PM » |
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What gauge wire do I need to use?
(I could suggest using the gauge that comes with the SmartSwitch!)
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sandy
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« Reply #5 on: October 22, 2015, 05:16:21 PM » |
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For under $20 you can get a labelmaker. I printout labels and wrap wires at terminals.
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« Reply #6 on: October 22, 2015, 06:56:46 PM » |
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For under $20 you can get a labelmaker. I printout labels and wrap wires at terminals.
Yep I'll be doing that as well. I have 2 sets of driving lights Heated handlebar grips Battery volt indicator Extra rear lights Kisan brake modulator HID headlight Dual accessory horns That's all I remember right now.
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Mtn Valk
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« Reply #7 on: October 23, 2015, 05:37:27 AM » |
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What gauge wire do I need to use?
(I could suggest using the gauge that comes with the SmartSwitch!) I haven't heard anyone chime in regarding BonS new SmartSwitch. I believe this is something that could be very useful. Is there anyone that has tried this product and has a review to share? I'm interested!
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J3
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« Reply #8 on: October 23, 2015, 06:38:03 AM » |
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What gauge wire do I need to use?
(I could suggest using the gauge that comes with the SmartSwitch!) What's a Smart Switch?
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BonS
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« Reply #9 on: October 23, 2015, 07:04:55 AM » |
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What gauge wire do I need to use?
(I could suggest using the gauge that comes with the SmartSwitch!) What's a Smart Switch? I've had a "soft opening" for it as I want to keep up with orders. There are three versions: one for single headlights on Standard and Tourer, one for Interstates and one for fog and running lights. It's only been a week so no reviews yet. The SmartSwitch is a manufactured wiring harness that routes full voltage to your head and running lights while bypassing the high currents around your handlebar switches. It's plug-and-play and your handlebar switches work the same as they always do. Additional info is here http://thedigisync.com/. I'll be glad to answer any additional questions. Oh, and it makes a huge difference on the Valkyries headlight brightness. Our headlights don't run anywhere near the wattage stated on the bulb due to the factory OEM harness wiring length, gauge, connectors, ignition switch and handlebar switches. I've seen anywhere from 25-40% increases. The quartz-halogen bulbs last longer too.
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« Last Edit: October 23, 2015, 07:08:57 AM by BonS »
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« Reply #10 on: October 23, 2015, 07:52:43 AM » |
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What gauge wire do I need to use?
(I could suggest using the gauge that comes with the SmartSwitch!) What's a Smart Switch? I've had a "soft opening" for it as I want to keep up with orders. There are three versions: one for single headlights on Standard and Tourer, one for Interstates and one for fog and running lights. It's only been a week so no reviews yet. The SmartSwitch is a manufactured wiring harness that routes full voltage to your head and running lights while bypassing the high currents around your handlebar switches. It's plug-and-play and your handlebar switches work the same as they always do. Additional info is here http://thedigisync.com/. I'll be glad to answer any additional questions. Oh, and it makes a huge difference on the Valkyries headlight brightness. Our headlights don't run anywhere near the wattage stated on the bulb due to the factory OEM harness wiring length, gauge, connectors, ignition switch and handlebar switches. I've seen anywhere from 25-40% increases. The quartz-halogen bulbs last longer too. I have an HID headlight. Does the switch work with that?
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Gryphon Rider
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Posts: 5227
2000 Tourer
Calgary, Alberta
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« Reply #11 on: October 23, 2015, 08:02:35 AM » |
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« Reply #12 on: October 23, 2015, 08:54:14 AM » |
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You assume that I have some basic knowledge of electricity. Eeeeek!
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BonS
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« Reply #13 on: October 23, 2015, 09:00:04 AM » |
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I have an HID headlight. Does the switch work with that?
Yes it does. My headlight models come with H4 style plugs. The running/fog light come with universal connections. I haven't tested an HID for brightness differences as I have for quartz-halogen and LED but you'll definitely take the load off of your handlebar switches. I'll have to get my hands on an HID bulb to check it out.
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big poppa pump
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« Reply #14 on: October 23, 2015, 09:20:57 AM » |
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I have an HID headlight. Does the switch work with that?
HID kits usually comes with it's own set of relays since the ballast needs to be powered directly from the battery. The smart switch is not needed in this case. However I did use this when I had a HID kit installed on my Valk. Even though a Xenon bulb consumes less power than a comparable Halogen bulb, the power draw from a typical 55W HID ballast at startup is quite a lot resulting in faster battery drain. HID bulbs usually take a few seconds to come to full power. Turning the bulb on/off when cranking kinda reduces the life of the HID bulb. With this relay, you can manually set how long it will take for your headlight to come on. I had mine set to 15 seconds. http://www.wolstentech.com/products/timedelayrelay/tdr-s.php
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VRCC#35870 VRCCDS#0266 1998 Valkyrie Hot Rod 
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Paladin528
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« Reply #15 on: October 23, 2015, 10:38:47 AM » |
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my understanding is that the Interstate headlights are already routed through a relay to relieve the start button of the load of 2 headlinghts. Would the smart switch not be redundant in this case?
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BonS
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« Reply #16 on: October 23, 2015, 11:05:28 AM » |
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my understanding is that the Interstate headlights are already routed through a relay to relieve the start button of the load of 2 headlights. Would the smart switch not be redundant in this case?
The IS does have a relay that relieves the handlebar switches from the load. But that's all that's accomplished. The OEM headlight voltage is still way below par because it routes through the ignition switch, connectors, and a long way through the OEM wiring harness which is under gauge. I picked up 36% high beam brightness (wattage) and 30.5% low beam brightness (wattage) on my Interstate.
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BonS
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« Reply #17 on: October 23, 2015, 11:07:36 AM » |
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I have an HID headlight. Does the switch work with that?
HID kits usually comes with it's own set of relays since the ballast needs to be powered directly from the battery. The smart switch is not needed in this case. However I did use this when I had a HID kit installed on my Valk. Even though a Xenon bulb consumes less power than a comparable Halogen bulb, the power draw from a typical 55W HID ballast at startup is quite a lot resulting in faster battery drain. HID bulbs usually take a few seconds to come to full power. Turning the bulb on/off when cranking kinda reduces the life of the HID bulb. With this relay, you can manually set how long it will take for your headlight to come on. I had mine set to 15 seconds. http://www.wolstentech.com/products/timedelayrelay/tdr-s.phpThe time delay relay makes sense for HID's and if HID's come with relays and suitable wiring that feeds directly off of the battery then there is no need for the Smart Switch.
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Tailgate Tommy
Member
    
Posts: 1438
2000 Interstate, 2001 Interstate and 2003 Standard
Fort Collins, Colorado
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« Reply #18 on: October 23, 2015, 12:09:25 PM » |
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I purchased, and just received in the mail, one each of the single, double, and fog light wiring harnesses. My winter project is to add them to both my IS and standard. I can say that they look awesome and very well made!
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