Another question about timing belt replacement

[Peter55]

Hello everyone. My 2000 I/S has now 32K miles. I don't ride it much since I have other bikes, but I haven't done much maintenance either, except changing oil in the Fall and Spring, plus other fluids every two years. I'm thinking about replacing the timing belt ( or belts? ). I have read some info in the forum but didn't find the info I was looking for, so here it is: (1) Is there one or two belts to replace? (2) Anyone has the model number of the OEM Honda belts? I would prefer going with the Honda brand if they are still available. (3) Is there a tensioner that should be replace or re-adjusted as well in the process?
Has anyone ever produced a video on Youtube on how to replace the belt ( or belts )? If not, does anyone (who has done this before) have any tip to offer before i start? I'm going to winterize the bike soon and I was thinking of replacing the belt at the same time. TIA for any help/suggestion.

[Michvalk]

There are two belts. I have no idea the belt number. Go to the main tech page, go to the search box, and type in "changing belts" There are hundreds of threads on changing timing belts, along with pictures. There are two tensioners that may or may not need replacing. Adjustment for those is covered in the threads for replacing belts. Good luck. It's not hard, but, must be done exactly right, or you can destroy a motor. Get a service manual and follow the directions

[John Schmidt]

And go to NAPA and get some Gates belts, same ones Honda uses for a lot less. Or, look it up on Rockauto.com, also cheaper than Honda prices and same belt.

Here's the RockAuto thing, with p/n.
GATES T275 {#250275} PowerGrip Premium OE Timing Belt; 21/32" x 33" (88 Teeth)    $13.23 each

You can buy two new ones there for less than one at Honda for the same belt.

[F6Dave]

The job is very easy.  Just make sure to line up the timing marks per the manual and all will be fine.  Also, take a ride to heat up the engine before removing the 10 timing cover bolts.  They will be easier to remove, especially the one with sealant on it.

Gates made the belts for Honda, so you can get the same belts Honda sells much cheaper elsewhere.  I think the Gates number is T275 or NAPA 250275.  I got mine at NAPA and they looked identical.

[R J]

Here is a list of cheaper parts for the Valk that pretty much all were made for Honda originally.  Some are Generic and some are originals for Honda.    The Valk will run just as good with the Generic parts as it will with the Honda original.       Remember this bike is almost 20 years old.    Honda does not have a lot of these parts anymore.    I had 242K+ miles on MGM and 2 sets of Generic belts.   Ran super good on those Generic's.

Never looked to see where you are located.

I'm assuming wherever you live, someone has changed a timing belt or two.     ASK for assistance, 99% of the fellow owners will be more than happy to assistance in the replacement.

Save this link and refer to it as needed.

http://www.jkozloski.com/generic_parts.htm

[98valk]

Hello everyone. My 2000 I/S has now 32K miles. I don't ride it much since I have other bikes, but I haven't done much maintenance either, except changing oil in the Fall and Spring, plus other fluids every two years. I'm thinking about replacing the timing belt ( or belts? ). I have read some info in the forum but didn't find the info I was looking for, so here it is: (1) Is there one or two belts to replace? (2) Anyone has the model number of the OEM Honda belts? I would prefer going with the Honda brand if they are still available. (3) Is there a tensioner that should be replace or re-adjusted as well in the process?
Has anyone ever produced a video on Youtube on how to replace the belt ( or belts )? If not, does anyone (who has done this before) have any tip to offer before i start? I'm going to winterize the bike soon and I was thinking of replacing the belt at the same time. TIA for any help/suggestion.

manual states inspect the belts even give pics of wear areas to check at 100k miles. age has nothing to do with the condition of the belts. they are in an enclosed area protected from the sun and do not see excessive heat. they are made the same as other belts which are required to last by state emission laws for 100k miles.

[Hook#3287]

I would question why you would change them with only 32K on them?

Honda states they should be inspected at 100k.

I know some feel age is a factor, but I can't remember ever hearing of a belt failure.

I think more damage has been done by improper change outs than belt failures.

If it's piece of mind you looking for, go for it, but IMHO, it's not needed.

[Tfrank59]

I changed mine at around 35k for peace of mind, since it's an interference engine, since it's 17 years old, since it's inexpensive and easy, and since I know how to do the work myself--almost fun   IMO it's worth it to change them with the Gates belts, but like Hook says, don't be one of those who do more harm than good by incorrectly changing them!

[Peter55]

The job is very easy.  Just make sure to line up the timing marks per the manual and all will be fine.  Also, take a ride to heat up the engine before removing the 10 timing cover bolts.  They will be easier to remove, especially the one with sealant on it.

Gates made the belts for Honda, so you can get the same belts Honda sells much cheaper elsewhere.  I think the Gates number is T275 or NAPA 250275.  I got mine at NAPA and they looked identical.

"Especially the one with the sealant on it". Ok, thank you and everyone one else for your inputs. Could you please also tell me what kind of sealant to buy? I assume I need to re-seal when done, right?

[Peter55]

Thank you everyone for your replies and inputs. Someone mentioned a "sealant" and I also noted in the manual. What type of sealant should I order to seal the one bolt on the top cover? Second, is there any adjustment I should be doing on the tensioners?
Thank you again everyone. 

[Peter55]

Ops, another discrepancy which confuses me: I looked at the belts at NAPA with Number 250275 and I noticed they sell a set for the GW and the Valkyries for $69. However, the two belts don't seem the same size, in their picture. So, is there one belt bigger than the other one? Take a look at the link:
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/400273815385?ul_noapp=true&chn=ps&lpid=82

But then when I checked on Amazon for the Gates T275 they only show one belt. Meaning that is i buy two of them from Amazon they will send me the same size.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CRDMS8/?tag=googhydr-20&hvadid=33026301848&hvpos=1t1&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11033214607594799185&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_3uj6fxcvon_e

So, which are the right ones? The set from NAPA with different size belts, or the one from Amazon?

Thank you. 

[KY,Dave (AKA Misunderstood)]

Pretty sure that they are the same size in the picture, just an optical illusion.

[Hook#3287]

They are the same.

The picture is messed up.  It sure looks like two different belts.

I've used just regular silicone sealant like DAP or GE.

You'll need to release the timing belt adjusters to remove the old belts, so they need to be re-adjusted.

I usually pull all the adjuster bolts and clean off the old and re-apply new lock-tite.

It REALLY IMPORTANT that you do not let the cam pulleys move when you remove the old belts.

Reaching out to a knowledgeable valk owner near you is a very good idea.

[Patrick]

Some of this been mentioned.

Remove the sparklers as it makes turning the engine easier.
Do not let the cam or crank pulley turn/move. Mark them.
I find setting the belts looser than Honda says keeps the belts quieter. I set them at 3/8"[ and have looked at Goldwing specs that have said 1/2"].
When done turn the engine over by hand and make sure the timing is correct before starting the engine.

[Peter55]

Ok, thank you very much every one. I will order from amazon then, and try to follow instructions since i don't know of anyone with a Valkyrie in my area. But I will turn the engine few time before starting it up. The only think I forgot to ask ( if anyone reads ), do I need to line up the marks even BEFORE I remove the old belts? ..or only after installing the new one. Because I have the feeling that, after the installation, once I reset the tensioner, the alignment marks may go out of sink again. So I assume I need to play around a little until the marks align "with the tensioner reset in place".  Thank you all.

[Patrick]

As long as you make sure the pulleys don't move you don't need to make sure the marks line up until the belts are on and adjusted. Then turn the engine over by hand a couple times and check the alignment marks. It may look like they are off a bit, like about 1/2 tooth, but, thats what to be expected. If they look to be off more than that, then something is wrong and don't start the engine until its correct.

[WintrSol]

I have to wonder why Honda calls for sealant on that one cover bolt; I don't see anything special about it, or its location. Anyone know what the reason is?

[Peter55]

Thank you all again, friends. 

[Chrisj CMA]

I have to wonder why Honda calls for sealant on that one cover bolt; I don't see anything special about it, or its location. Anyone know what the reason is?

I have a theory, but no one seems to have the same issue as me, so my best advise is, don't worry about the sealant.  No one has ever had a leak by not sealing that bolt.  I have done a few belt changes, I never seal it, it never leaks.  I think its a typo.  I have a leak on another bolt that needs to be sealed with high quality gasket sealer but its not a cover bolt its a tensioner bolt.

[WintrSol]

So, the threaded hole may break into the water jacket, or even the crankcase? I'll have to watch for anything leaking, but haven't seen anything, so far.

[gordonv]

You need to follow the instructions as given. Align all the marks first. The removal of the spark plugs also re-leave the pressure in the cylinders which will stop the engine from wanting to turn over (and make it easier to turn by hand).

I did my GW, here is the How-to for that. The engine is the same, except for all the plastic you have to remove to get to it.
http://goldwingdocs.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=9774

I know there was some How-to for the Valk, but I could not quickly find it. I just did mine earlier this year, 61K miles and an 88'.