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Author Topic: Looking for recommendations - Fuse Block  (Read 1255 times)
Highside
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Posts: 22


Lindale, TX


« on: October 26, 2015, 10:51:52 AM »

Greetings!

Looking for recommendations for a multi-device fuse block (3-6 devices) that will mount under the side cover and provide DC  power with automotive style fuses.

Trying to clean up existing wiring and plan on future add-ons.

I had one years ago on my first Valkyrie but cannot remember the manufacturer.

Photos and / or links welcomed!

Thanks!

Highside
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hubcapsc
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Posts: 16781


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #1 on: October 26, 2015, 10:58:08 AM »


Perfectly acceptable fuse blocks can be had for much less than a PDM60, and
also for less than a Centech one... but here's a link....

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,63259.0.html

-Mike
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Marinakorp
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Posts: 225


King of Prussia, PA


« Reply #2 on: October 26, 2015, 11:21:22 AM »

Many have used these.. I am planning on adding this to my 98 Valk this winter

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Wiring_Kits/Fuseboxes/PC-8/pc-8.html#pc8only


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I would rather be judged by 12 than carried by 6
chrise2469
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Posts: 295

Winnipeg Manitoba Canada


« Reply #3 on: October 26, 2015, 01:57:38 PM »

Here is a link to multiple low tech fuse-blocks from wiring products. 
http://www.wiringproducts.com/fuse-blocks

I like this one because it comes with an integrated ground bus.
http://www.wiringproducts.com/bussmann-ganged-fuse-panel-with-ground-bus-6-position.html

Hope this helps.
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MarkT
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VRCC #437 "Form follows Function"

Colorado Front Range - elevation 2.005 km


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« Reply #4 on: October 26, 2015, 02:33:38 PM »

I like the PC-8.  It's obviously well made.  Way better than the 10-fuse panel I got from NAPA years ago and installed in Deerslayer.



BTW - After putting lots of relays all over Deerslayer, this time I planned for it and made a relay panel for Jade.  The panel lifts out for maintenance.  Ten relays here, and two more in the headlight bucket and one under the right cover.  Also added extra wires in the looms under the tank, for future mods so I can add them w/o pulling the tank.



The panel lifts out for maintenance.

« Last Edit: October 26, 2015, 02:40:02 PM by MarkT » Logged


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Bighead
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Madison Alabama


« Reply #5 on: October 26, 2015, 09:50:06 PM »

I also used a PC-8 from eastern beaver well made. Mounted mine behind the battery in the battery box.
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1999 Interstate (sold)
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Gryphon
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Fulton, MO


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« Reply #6 on: October 27, 2015, 11:33:41 AM »

I've used the GL15 on my first '98.  I later found the Universal fit better and that is what I have on my present bike.  It has a relay and only provides power to the block when the key is on.  I have the relay trigger connected to the accessory wire under the side cover.  It's only rated for 30 amps, but it gives me a place to connect power to my Kury switch block for my lights and my other accessories.

http://electricalconnection.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=20_61&product_id=80
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Highside
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Lindale, TX


« Reply #7 on: October 28, 2015, 12:27:35 PM »

Thanks for the replies and information!

Highside
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Kunkies
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Posts: 279


Charlotte, NC


« Reply #8 on: October 29, 2015, 09:00:01 AM »

http://www.cruisercustomizing.com/neutrino-v2-black-box-intelligent-device-controller-for-electrical-accessories-smart-phone-compatible/part/AS-BLACK-BOX?utm_source=EmailDirect.com&utm_medium=Email&utm_campaign=NP151029
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Paladin528
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Greater Toronto Area Ontario Canada


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« Reply #9 on: October 30, 2015, 04:31:57 AM »

I need one that offers straigh through fusing as opposed to power distribution.
I have a setup where main power feeds a junction box.  This power is fused with a 30 amp fuse at the battery.  That power then feeds power to 3 relays.  The output of those relays feeds Driving lights, Accesnt lights and Auxiliary power outlets all controlled by a switch block.  I need to have fuses in line for each of those 3 circuits which I could simply do with inline fuses but I would rather make it neat.  Finding a compact block that offers 3 or more inputs for 3 or more outputs is difficult.  I have one with 2 inputs for 8 outputs but that does not satisfy my requirement.
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MarkT
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VRCC #437 "Form follows Function"

Colorado Front Range - elevation 2.005 km


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« Reply #10 on: October 30, 2015, 09:27:18 AM »

I need one that offers straigh through fusing as opposed to power distribution.
I have a setup where main power feeds a junction box.  This power is fused with a 30 amp fuse at the battery.  That power then feeds power to 3 relays.  The output of those relays feeds Driving lights, Accesnt lights and Auxiliary power outlets all controlled by a switch block.  I need to have fuses in line for each of those 3 circuits which I could simply do with inline fuses but I would rather make it neat.  Finding a compact block that offers 3 or more inputs for 3 or more outputs is difficult.  I have one with 2 inputs for 8 outputs but that does not satisfy my requirement.


I have a similar design, but put the PC-8 fuse panel before the relays. The PC-8 supports 6 circuits from one input, and 2 from the other.  (Also supports plugging in the ground side but I didn't use that) They suggest, feed the 6 from a triggered relay, and the 2 untriggered.  I reversed that, as most of my circuits have their own triggers; don't need so many pre-triggered at the fuse panel.  Some don't need triggers at all - like the heated clothing circuit.  And I need that one live, as I use it to plug in a charger w/o pulling the side panel or seat. On the 2 triggered circuits - powered by a 30amp relay and triggered by the aux circuit. One port is still available.  Used all 6 on the PC-8 untriggered buss, and they feed to a relay board that has 10 relays on it. I still used 2 inline fuses separate from the fuse panel as they needed their own inputs, like your setup.  All fuses and relays are clearly marked with medical tape.

Anyway, it's safest to have the fuses as early in the circuit as possible (closest to the battery).  So almost the entire circuit is protected against shorts. My power panel is powered off the fusible link (the BIG 55amp fuse).  I had a connection on that fuse fail on Deerslayer - somehow it got corroded, developed high resistance then melted out the plastic on the end, failed and left me on the side of the road with a smoking mess. I replaced it, then covered the whole thing with Liquid Tape - brush-on rubber - to keep moisture off it.  Then just did the same with Jade to prevent the same problem.
« Last Edit: October 30, 2015, 09:31:01 AM by MarkT » Logged


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Paladin528
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Greater Toronto Area Ontario Canada


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« Reply #11 on: November 04, 2015, 06:41:44 AM »

What I have now with the setup is power for the coil of the relays coming from the AUX circuit which has its own 5a fuse.  that circuit supplies power and ground through a Show Chrome switch block (3 Switches) so I have protection on the coil side.
The POWER Circuit to the relays is covered by a 30a fuse at the battery.  That protects the power run from the battery to the fairing for the relay power bus.
Now on the out put to the loads I could simply use inline fuses but I really hate that.  I would rather have a small block with a few fuses with straight pass through.  Small being the key word.  I have an 8 circuit fuse block that is just too big.  I did modify it to have some straight  through circuits but I want something cleaner and smaller.
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