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« on: November 01, 2015, 09:01:59 AM » |
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To extend back over the rear fender a little as well?
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gordonv
Member
Posts: 5762
VRCC # 31419
Richmond BC
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« Reply #1 on: November 01, 2015, 10:50:26 AM » |
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No, but there has been a fender rack to replace the back seat.
I wonder if you could get a passenger back rest/luggage rack, and mount the rack in reverse when the rear seat has been removed? Most likely wouldn't look nice, but should be functional if it doesn't hit the driver.
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1999 Black with custom paint IS   |
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97valk
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« Reply #3 on: November 01, 2015, 12:11:04 PM » |
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Where do you find stuff like that? looks great!!!!  |
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Riding with the wind in my face, the past at my back and the road beneath my wheels............ Paradise
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John Schmidt
Member
Posts: 15224
a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike
De Pere, WI (Green Bay)
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« Reply #4 on: November 01, 2015, 12:52:20 PM » |
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Where do you find stuff like that? looks great!!!! Ebay! Got the mount and two trunks off there, made one good trunk from two and also gave me some spare parts for it. I added the lid rack and handle. On the inside I added a restraining cable on each side, nonexistent on the OEM version. Then sent for a bag made to fit in that particular trunk. My friend that did the leather for the rest of the bike covered the backrest on the trunk to match. Just in case I ever want to change the mount so I can carry a passenger.....however unlikely that may be. The two cross buttons on either side are where little bags used to mount, something I had no use for.  |
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« Reply #5 on: November 01, 2015, 03:53:02 PM » |
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This is what I did with an 1100 trunk rack/mount, probably not what you're looking for. I also set it up to mount the associated trunk if desired, but by itself makes a rather large luggage rack. Had to weld a couple "L" shaped brackets to the bottom, then drilled them to let me bolt in place where the sissy bar/backrest goes. The front length was cut off and I found some truck(semi tractor) mirror extensions that support the front real solid. A couple of bracket off the original hardware comes with a plate nut so I cut/shaped them and left them permanently mounted on the front fender bolts. To remove is only three small bolts each side, notice I also set it up so it sits over the rear wheel instead of hanging out back beyond the rear fender like an I/S. The trunk just snaps in place and locks, easy on/off.   That rack looks like just what I need. Your skills far exceed mine. |
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Tfrank59
Member
Posts: 1364
'98 Tourer
Western Washington
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« Reply #6 on: November 01, 2015, 04:58:18 PM » |
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To extend back over the rear fender a little as well?
About a year ago i purchased a solo rack, similar to the one that used to be available for Valkyries, and adapted it to my bike. To make it work, I had to build a little bracket that mounts to the rear seat mount, and it works great. If I were smart enough to post a pic I would. |
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-Tom
Keep the rubber side down. USMC '78-'84
'98 Valkyrie, ‘02 VTX 1800, '96 Royal Star, '06 Drifter, '09 Bonneville, '10 KTM 530, '04 XR 650, '76 Bultaco, '81 CR 450, '78 GS 750...
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pago cruiser
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« Reply #7 on: November 01, 2015, 08:08:32 PM » |
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Yep. Another guy asked me about this and I never really responded- here's what I did. Get a couple used Hondaline luggage racks from ebay. Be patient, as dealers think these are gold. You want to wait until you find some guy cleaning out his old parts. I paid $35 for 1 and $50 for the other. The one in the pic is on ebay now - he wants $150! They sold almost identical versions of these to fit many bikes in the mid 80's. Brackets don't matter, as you are going to whack em off:  Get an extra pair of Valk luggage rack ears. Trim em a bit, spot weld , then start playing with angles.  Get some 1/8" mild steel stock and start fabbing some brackets to bolt the luggage rack to the ears. These pieces get welded onto the luggage rack - you need 4 total:  Once you know how long you want it, trim to the right length, and weld the pair of luggage racks together - basically butt welds. I made up solid inserts to mate the two halves together. The bar inserts were rectangular, about 1/2" x 1/4" x 3". The perimeter inserts were some steel tubing that I had to grind down to the right diameter. I tacked it all in place, then took to a welding buddy. The key thing is to not let it get too hot - don't want it to warp. Once we had it welded, took it to another guy who does brazing body work, and he filled/brazed/sanded until rectangular tubes were again rectangular, and round tubes were again round. In this pic you can see the 1" x 1/8" flat bar I tacked on to span the rear ears and make a mounting point. Note that the rectangular tubing in the Hondaline rack is really light gauge.  Weld on the (4) tabs you made earlier, off to the powder coater, and Bobs your Uncle.  Just got off of work, but I can get a close-up later if you want. It's really strong. I have used it to carry a Valk rear wheel AND a tire from home to the local Indy shop to mount. It also carries a couple cases of Millers just fine... But you have to use good bungies... |
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Just because you are not paranoid doesn't mean they're not out to get you
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« Reply #8 on: November 02, 2015, 04:45:22 AM » |
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Yep. Another guy asked me about this and I never really responded- here's what I did. Get a couple used Hondaline luggage racks from ebay. Be patient, as dealers think these are gold. You want to wait until you find some guy cleaning out his old parts. I paid $35 for 1 and $50 for the other. The one in the pic is on ebay now - he wants $150! They sold almost identical versions of these to fit many bikes in the mid 80's. Brackets don't matter, as you are going to whack em off: Get an extra pair of Valk luggage rack ears. Trim em a bit, spot weld , then start playing with angles. Get some 1/8" mild steel stock and start fabbing some brackets to bolt the luggage rack to the ears. These pieces get welded onto the luggage rack - you need 4 total: Once you know how long you want it, trim to the right length, and weld the pair of luggage racks together - basically butt welds. I made up solid inserts to mate the two halves together. The bar inserts were rectangular, about 1/2" x 1/4" x 3". The perimeter inserts were some steel tubing that I had to grind down to the right diameter. I tacked it all in place, then took to a welding buddy. The key thing is to not let it get too hot - don't want it to warp. Once we had it welded, took it to another guy who does brazing body work, and he filled/brazed/sanded until rectangular tubes were again rectangular, and round tubes were again round. In this pic you can see the 1" x 1/8" flat bar I tacked on to span the rear ears and make a mounting point. Note that the rectangular tubing in the Hondaline rack is really light gauge. Weld on the (4) tabs you made earlier, off to the powder coater, and Bobs your Uncle. Just got off of work, but I can get a close-up later if you want. It's really strong. I have used it to carry a Valk rear wheel AND a tire from home to the local Indy shop to mount. It also carries a couple cases of Millers just fine... But you have to use good bungies... You sir are my hero! If only I had the skill to do that. That's the kinda thing I'm looking for but finished in black. There's a company in TN who makes a rack for a GW1800 with the rear seat unit removed. Can't remember their name. |
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Tfrank59
Member
Posts: 1364
'98 Tourer
Western Washington
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« Reply #9 on: November 02, 2015, 06:44:03 AM » |
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Where do you find stuff like that? looks great!!!! Ebay! Got the mount and two trunks off there, made one good trunk from two and also gave me some spare parts for it. I added the lid rack and handle. On the inside I added a restraining cable on each side, nonexistent on the OEM version. Then sent for a bag made to fit in that particular trunk. My friend that did the leather for the rest of the bike covered the backrest on the trunk to match. Just in case I ever want to change the mount so I can carry a passenger.....however unlikely that may be. The two cross buttons on either side are where little bags used to mount, something I had no use for. I'm curious, do your hard bag lids clear that trunk when they open? |
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-Tom
Keep the rubber side down. USMC '78-'84
'98 Valkyrie, ‘02 VTX 1800, '96 Royal Star, '06 Drifter, '09 Bonneville, '10 KTM 530, '04 XR 650, '76 Bultaco, '81 CR 450, '78 GS 750...
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John Schmidt
Member
Posts: 15224
a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike
De Pere, WI (Green Bay)
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« Reply #10 on: November 02, 2015, 07:14:14 AM » |
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I'm curious, do your hard bag lids clear that trunk when they open?
No, but almost, so I had to change the lids to operate as I/S lids. Already had that kind of lid installed so it was just a matter of changing the hinges and cables. I don't have the rack installed all the time, only when I want to use it for carrying something or for trips using the trunk. Six small bolts and it on/off in just a few minutes. When I first got the trunk mount, I cut everything off underneath the mount. Then positioned it where I wanted it and marked how much length to remove. It's very solid, I've carried stuff much heavier than a full trunk weighs. With the weight over the rear axle instead of hanging out back, the bike handles great. I'm guessing that's one of the characteristics Britman is looking for. |
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« Reply #11 on: November 02, 2015, 08:01:32 AM » |
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I'm curious, do your hard bag lids clear that trunk when they open?
I'm guessing that's one of the characteristics Britman is looking for. Freaks me out man to see riders with everything AND the kitchen sink loaded behind the rear axle. |
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