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« on: November 06, 2015, 09:32:18 AM » |
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Thanks. !. Remove saddlebags. Done that. 
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« Last Edit: November 06, 2015, 10:51:30 AM by Britman »
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Daniel Meyer
Member
    
Posts: 5492
Author. Adventurer. Electrician.
The State of confusion.
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« Reply #1 on: November 06, 2015, 09:33:45 AM » |
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Remove shocks. Lift wheel till axle is above pipes. Remove same.
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CUAgain, Daniel Meyer 
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« Reply #2 on: November 06, 2015, 09:38:14 AM » |
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Remove shocks. Lift wheel till axle is above pipes. Remove same.
So just like a Standard. Thanks. Was wondering about the bag frames. Being lazy asking rather than taking a look 
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indybobm
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« Reply #3 on: November 06, 2015, 10:19:58 AM » |
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Remove rear section of rear fender and the center connector bar for saddle bag mounts.
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So many roads, so little time VRCC # 5258
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John Schmidt
Member
    
Posts: 15211
a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike
De Pere, WI (Green Bay)
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« Reply #4 on: November 06, 2015, 01:12:32 PM » |
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I just raise the bike & wheel a couple inches off the floor, then using a floor jack under the swingarm enables me to remove the shocks. Next I remove the back half of the rear fender then raise the axle above the exhaust and remove it. When it's only a couple inches in the air, you can just roll the wheel out. Pretty much the reverse to reinstall. I hate jacking over 700lbs. two feet in the air, then suddenly removing a major weight by taking off the rear wheel.
With it sitting that close to the ground, to reinstall I use a piece of 1x3 about 30" long and a chunk of 2x4 for a fulcrum. Roll the wheel in place to, slip the 1x3 under it and lift, when in position you can hold it with your knee leaving TWO hands free to work the wheel while you insert the axle. Slip the axle all the way through without mounting the brakes, it helps align it for meshing the splines. Once that's done, pull the axle out just enough to insert the spacer and brake mount.
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« Reply #5 on: November 06, 2015, 01:27:13 PM » |
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Remove shocks
Raise bike to get at axle and brake bolts.
Slide axle out.
Raise bike more and roll wheel out. No removing fender or rails.
Breathe sigh of relief at sight of beautiful splines.
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KY,Dave (AKA Misunderstood)
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Posts: 4146
Specimen #30838 DS #0233
Williamsburg, KY
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« Reply #6 on: November 06, 2015, 03:22:01 PM » |
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Remove shocks
Raise bike to get at axle and brake bolts.
Slide axle out.
Raise bike more and roll wheel out. No removing fender or rails.
Breathe sigh of relief at sight of beautiful splines.
Glad the splines were in good shape. That would be my main concern when buying used.
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Daniel Meyer
Member
    
Posts: 5492
Author. Adventurer. Electrician.
The State of confusion.
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« Reply #7 on: November 06, 2015, 03:43:19 PM » |
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Remove shocks. Lift wheel till axle is above pipes. Remove same.
So just like a Standard. Thanks. Was wondering about the bag frames. Being lazy asking rather than taking a look  Yep, the wheel will go up high enough so the axle will clear the bag frames/pans easy. I don't like dropping it down instead as the exhaust bracket bolts will dig into the swing arm (left side) unless you pull or bend that pipe outward...not a good thing in my view.
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CUAgain, Daniel Meyer 
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Bighead
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« Reply #8 on: November 06, 2015, 03:50:52 PM » |
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Daniel I have done it both ways and when lowering the swingarm just take the nuts off of muffler mount on rear and use a small wooden wedge between farm and muffler and it holds pipe mounts ( bolts) out of the way,and doesn't bend them in any way. Pull the wedges and they go back.
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1997 Bumble Bee 1999 Interstate (sold) 2016 Wing
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #9 on: November 08, 2015, 11:38:17 AM » |
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Daniel I have done it both ways and when lowering the swingarm just take the nuts off of muffler mount on rear and use a small wooden wedge between farm and muffler and it holds pipe mounts ( bolts) out of the way,and doesn't bend them in any way. Pull the wedges and they go back.
+1
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Daniel Meyer
Member
    
Posts: 5492
Author. Adventurer. Electrician.
The State of confusion.
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« Reply #10 on: November 08, 2015, 07:23:58 PM » |
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Daniel I have done it both ways and when lowering the swingarm just take the nuts off of muffler mount on rear and use a small wooden wedge between farm and muffler and it holds pipe mounts ( bolts) out of the way,and doesn't bend them in any way. Pull the wedges and they go back.
+1 I suppose...but I pull the shocks also so I can also check the pinion cup/etc. You need to lift the swing arm up to easily reinstall it. I don't see a need to stress the pipes.
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CUAgain, Daniel Meyer 
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PAVALKER
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Posts: 4435
Retired Navy 22YOS, 2014 Valkyrie , VRCC# 27213
Pittsburgh, Pa
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« Reply #11 on: November 09, 2015, 05:41:08 AM » |
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Daniel I have done it both ways and when lowering the swingarm just take the nuts off of muffler mount on rear and use a small wooden wedge between farm and muffler and it holds pipe mounts ( bolts) out of the way,and doesn't bend them in any way. Pull the wedges and they go back.
+1 +2 Never removed pipes or rear fender section when changing tire. And only disconnect lower shock bolts.
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« Last Edit: November 09, 2015, 05:44:11 AM by PAVALKER »
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John 
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Thunderbolt
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« Reply #12 on: November 09, 2015, 11:52:35 AM » |
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What they all said Britman but while you have the bags off is a good time to take the bag brackets off and clean and wax them. Use the soap impregnated steel wool from the other thread. I always clean and paint the steel pans while off with just some rust proofing paint. I understand that you were trying to get it done quickly so for next time. 
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« Reply #13 on: November 09, 2015, 12:53:10 PM » |
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What they all said Britman but while you have the bags off is a good time to take the bag brackets off and clean and wax them. Use the soap impregnated steel wool from the other thread. I always clean and paint the steel pans while off with just some rust proofing paint. I understand that you were trying to get it done quickly so for next time.  I'm still in the throes of cleaning and painting the pans is on my to do list.  There's a bit of rust on them.
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hubcapsc
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Posts: 16779
upstate
South Carolina
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« Reply #14 on: November 09, 2015, 03:46:24 PM » |
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 I don't really jack my bike up much, kind of lift it to neutral to take the shocks off, and sink and raise the bike after that to move the swingarm up and down... -Mike
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Tfrank59
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Posts: 1364
'98 Tourer
Western Washington
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« Reply #15 on: November 09, 2015, 04:06:56 PM » |
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Remove shocks
Raise bike to get at axle and brake bolts.
Slide axle out.
Raise bike more and roll wheel out. No removing fender or rails.
Breathe sigh of relief at sight of beautiful splines.
that's the way I've been doing mine--never removed fender or exhaust, just shocks.
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-Tom
Keep the rubber side down. USMC '78-'84 '98 Valkyrie, ‘02 VTX 1800, '96 Royal Star, '06 Drifter, '09 Bonneville, '10 KTM 530, '04 XR 650, '76 Bultaco, '81 CR 450, '78 GS 750...
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« Reply #16 on: November 09, 2015, 04:31:29 PM » |
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Keep the suggestions coming for new "Searchers".
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« Reply #17 on: November 11, 2015, 12:05:35 PM » |
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Grrrrr.
Trying to get the brake caliper and left side spacer in the same space.
Suggestions?
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hubcapsc
Member
    
Posts: 16779
upstate
South Carolina
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« Reply #18 on: November 11, 2015, 12:18:12 PM » |
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Grrrrr.
Trying to get the brake caliper and left side spacer in the same space.
Suggestions?
Jamb it all together (put the axle through) without the spacer. Then stuff should be aligned enough that you can slip the axle back out just enough and then slip in the spacer... -Mike
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« Reply #19 on: November 11, 2015, 12:23:01 PM » |
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Grrrrr.
Trying to get the brake caliper and left side spacer in the same space.
Suggestions?
Jamb it all together (put the axle through) without the spacer. Then stuff should be aligned enough that you can slip the axle back out just enough and then slip in the spacer... -Mike Slip in the spacer with the brake caliper in the way? If it's already a tight fit how the heck will the spacer slide in? I'll go give it a try. Back in a few.
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« Reply #20 on: November 11, 2015, 01:40:40 PM » |
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My solution which was so easy. I installed the forward caliper bolt. The one that goes through the swing arm. Rotated the caliper to the front of the bike. Enough so the axle hole just cleared the area the spacer needed. Slipped in spacer and then rotated the brake unit slowly back and hey presto with a bit of a squeeze all lined up and with a bit of finagling the axle was in place. I WILL DEFINITELY BE USING A SHORT 1" STRAP AS A 3RD HAND NEXT TIME. Will make the fine up and down adjustment for lining everything up a lot easier. Had a little flash of panic mixed with "- insert swear word here - me" . The rear wheel wouldn't turn.  Checked it wasn't touching the garage floor. Made sure it was in neutral. Battery out so no green light to confirm. Still wouldn't turn. Not even with the clutch in.  Then with a few more hand manual clicks of the gear lever I realized I was switching between 2 and 3rd looking for neutral 
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« Last Edit: November 11, 2015, 01:54:27 PM by Britman »
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« Reply #21 on: November 11, 2015, 01:53:52 PM » |
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Thanks everyone. 
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Tfrank59
Member
    
Posts: 1364
'98 Tourer
Western Washington
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« Reply #22 on: November 11, 2015, 03:32:20 PM » |
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Good job  The next time you go on that adventure it won't be as difficult 
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-Tom
Keep the rubber side down. USMC '78-'84 '98 Valkyrie, ‘02 VTX 1800, '96 Royal Star, '06 Drifter, '09 Bonneville, '10 KTM 530, '04 XR 650, '76 Bultaco, '81 CR 450, '78 GS 750...
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« Reply #23 on: November 12, 2015, 01:35:46 AM » |
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Good job  The next time you go on that adventure it won't be as difficult  Yep. It's been 8 years since I wrenched on a Valkyrie.
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« Reply #24 on: December 05, 2017, 06:54:01 AM » |
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Dec 5 2017 Sometimes I wanna punch a Honda design engineer in the nose. Can't get the bottom right shock bolt out.  I've loosened it enough that it could be a six inch bolt. Why didn't they use the same bolt as the bottom left shock bolt??? 
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #25 on: December 05, 2017, 07:18:01 AM » |
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Dec 5 2017 Sometimes I wanna punch a Honda design engineer in the nose. Can't get the bottom right shock bolt out.  I've loosened it enough that it could be a six inch bolt. Why didn't they use the same bolt as the bottom left shock bolt???  It’s different because it uses the aluminum gear case as mounting point. Just grab the head of the “bolt” with some pliers and pull it out. Jacking up enough to relieve pressure on it helps.
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« Reply #26 on: December 05, 2017, 07:25:14 AM » |
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Dec 5 2017 Sometimes I wanna punch a Honda design engineer in the nose. Can't get the bottom right shock bolt out.  I've loosened it enough that it could be a six inch bolt. Why didn't they use the same bolt as the bottom left shock bolt???  It’s different because it uses the aluminum gear case as mounting point. Just grab the head of the “bolt” with some pliers and pull it out. Jacking up enough to relieve pressure on it helps. Done that. Will try again. The shock is not gripping the bolt. The shock swivels freely.
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Skinhead
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Posts: 8727
J. A. B. O. A.
Troy, MI
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« Reply #27 on: December 05, 2017, 07:38:23 AM » |
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Dec 5 2017 Sometimes I wanna punch a Honda design engineer in the nose. Can't get the bottom right shock bolt out.  I've loosened it enough that it could be a six inch bolt. Why didn't they use the same bolt as the bottom left shock bolt???  It’s different because it uses the aluminum gear case as mounting point. Just grab the head of the “bolt” with some pliers and pull it out. Jacking up enough to relieve pressure on it helps. Done that. Will try again. The shock is not gripping the bolt. The shock swivels freely. If you can't get it out by pulling with pliers, try slathering it with anti-seize, grease, or oil and reinstalling it, then try to remove it. Perhaps the increased lube will help. Although, I don't really understand why your having problems, mine can be pulled out with your fingers. A little tip for installing: I had trouble lining things up to reinstall the bolt, so I ground a chamfer on the shoulder to help align things.
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 Troy, MI
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« Reply #28 on: December 05, 2017, 07:40:07 AM » |
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Dec 5 2017 Sometimes I wanna punch a Honda design engineer in the nose. Can't get the bottom right shock bolt out.  I've loosened it enough that it could be a six inch bolt. Why didn't they use the same bolt as the bottom left shock bolt???  It’s different because it uses the aluminum gear case as mounting point. Just grab the head of the “bolt” with some pliers and pull it out. Jacking up enough to relieve pressure on it helps. Done that. Will try again. The shock is not gripping the bolt. The shock swivels freely. If you can't get it out by pulling with pliers, try slathering it with anti-seize, grease, or oil and reinstalling it, then try to remove it. Perhaps the increased lube will help. Although, I don't really understand why your having problems, mine can be pulled out with your fingers. . Good thinking Batman. Zooms off to the Bat garage. 
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da prez
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« Reply #29 on: December 05, 2017, 09:19:54 AM » |
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I made the fixture to hold the swing arm above the exhaust. I got a scissor jack and built a cradle to use under the front (or rear) tire to balance the bike. I raise them up all the way and built an extra safety for the jack . When re installing , I use a 3/4 inch tapered pinch bar put in from the nut side of the axle. it is loose enough to get all parts installed. I then push it out using the axle and then continue with the assembly. The bar allows you room to hook up the drive splines and cushions and then fit in the caliper bracket and spacer.
da prez
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« Reply #30 on: December 05, 2017, 01:04:12 PM » |
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Once I got the slather on and the bolt back in it did come out all the way so I could pull it free. BUT I couldn't get the little bugger back in to reinstall the shock. No matter how I tried. THEN I REALIZED TA - DA! I was using the wrong shock.  Waiting for the laughter to die down. However I still couldn't get it back in. It was binding, so I gave it a good rub down with steel wool. Some more slather and Bob's yer Uncle. So new rubber on rim. All bits back on bike. No bits left in my bits and pieces left side / right side tray.
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« Reply #31 on: December 05, 2017, 01:18:34 PM » |
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Two years on and 22,000 miles the pans still look OK after my repaint and wax slathering. 
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« Reply #32 on: December 05, 2017, 01:19:17 PM » |
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Hi tech 
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« Reply #33 on: December 05, 2017, 01:19:52 PM » |
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Happy 60,000 mile splines 
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George B
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« Reply #34 on: December 06, 2017, 07:07:57 AM » |
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Being a newbie to Valks, it looked rather intimidating. After I got the bags off and the bike jacked up, wheel removal and pulling the final to lube the drive shaft was pretty easy. Easier than working on the old GS . Took a lot less time than I thought. Lots of good info here ..... 
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1997 1500CT with California Sidecar Now a Roadsmith Trike conversion Former rides: 1988 BMW R100GS 2007 Ural Patrol 15 HDs from 1937 to 1977
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Ramie
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« Reply #35 on: December 07, 2017, 05:14:03 AM » |
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Hi tech  You can never have enough garage wood laying around.
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“I am not a courageous person by nature. I have simply discovered that, at certain key moments in this life, you must find courage in yourself, in order to move forward and live. It is like a muscle and it must be exercised, first a little, and then more and more. A deep breath and a leap.”
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Tfrank59
Member
    
Posts: 1364
'98 Tourer
Western Washington
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« Reply #36 on: December 07, 2017, 11:31:35 AM » |
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or empty paint cans for that matter 
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-Tom
Keep the rubber side down. USMC '78-'84 '98 Valkyrie, ‘02 VTX 1800, '96 Royal Star, '06 Drifter, '09 Bonneville, '10 KTM 530, '04 XR 650, '76 Bultaco, '81 CR 450, '78 GS 750...
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Jess from VA
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« Reply #37 on: December 07, 2017, 11:43:21 AM » |
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I've seen more stable jack stands.
I even have some.
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Cracker Jack
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« Reply #38 on: December 07, 2017, 11:44:30 AM » |
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The paint cans look a little precarious. A slight bump would upset the stack. If I was going to do that, I'd put 2 or 3 sheet metal screws in the joint to tie them together, unless they were not empty.  I have used eight inch concrete blocks in a similar manner, very stable. 
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« Reply #39 on: December 07, 2017, 12:45:03 PM » |
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The paint cans look a little precarious. A slight bump would upset the stack. If I was going to do that, I'd put 2 or 3 sheet metal screws in the joint to tie them together, unless they were not empty.  I have used eight inch concrete blocks in a similar manner, very stable.  Same set up on the other side of the engine.
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