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MarkT Exhaust
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Author Topic: Valks and Wings  (Read 1083 times)
Kep
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*****
Posts: 480


My "Mid-life Crisis "

Indiana


« on: November 19, 2015, 06:39:44 PM »

After replacing the water pump , rear rotor and brake pads on my 2001 GL1800...I truly enjoy working on the Valk more..way too much to take apart when working on the Wing. I spent more time dis-assembling than I did actually making the repairs. Glad it's done , even more glad that I can do it myself. Now I understand why the dealers charge so much.Just hope I never have any electrical issues , there are way too many electronics in there . Gotta hand it to Honda , they sure know how to engineer a motorcycle.Now I have a couple things to do to the Valk , should go a bit easier.
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flash2002
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Posts: 268


Montreal, Que


« Reply #1 on: November 20, 2015, 01:46:35 AM »

I have one of those 1800 plastic wings and yes they are no fun to work on. They are great bikes to ride but not to work on. The one thing I like is, taking off the back wheel compared to the valkyrie is so easy.
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pais
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Posts: 723


One more turn should do it!

Kent, Ohio


« Reply #2 on: November 20, 2015, 02:01:31 AM »

    One of the reasons I sold my Concourse. Just changing the oil was a PIA.
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Better to have it and not need it, than to need it and not have it!

Kep
Member
*****
Posts: 480


My "Mid-life Crisis "

Indiana


« Reply #3 on: November 20, 2015, 05:39:34 AM »

Rear wheel wasn't so easy...had to remove the hitch... although I do like only having to remove the 5 lug nuts and it's off.
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Bagger John - #3785
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Posts: 1952



« Reply #4 on: November 20, 2015, 07:28:09 AM »

    One of the reasons I sold my Concourse. Just changing the oil was a PIA.
Which model?

On my 1400s: Loosen drain bolt, place pan underneath sump, remove drain bolt and let oil drain. Loosen oil filter with filter wrench, remove filter and let drain into pan. Prime new oil filter, replace drain bolt (use new sealing washer) and torque to specified value. Install oil filter; tighten to recommended torque value (or until snug), remove filler cap and fill with indicated quantity of oil.

It took me about as long to type this out as it does to change oil on a C14. Same tools (17mm socket, torque wrench, ratchet, oil filter wrench) as are used with my Valkyries and the procedure takes roughly the same amount of time.

Granted, a valve lash inspection/adjustment on a C10 or C14 is a bit of a process but it's not insurmountable - and only has to be done every 15k.
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