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Author Topic: 440 shocks 12inch vs 13inch  (Read 1651 times)
stude31
Member
*****
Posts: 1100


Topeka,ks


« on: September 11, 2009, 08:44:18 AM »

hey I got this bike that has the 440-4229's on it and the progressive site says that they are 12in shocks....  How much difference in handling is it to have the 12 vs 13's???  Is it worth shopping for the 13's or trying to make a trade w/ someone???  I am 6'1 200lbs... they ride great but the bike sit's much lower and I can't corner very hard  tickedoff

tell me your opinions on the difference and if it is worth it to change the shocks....

thanks,

Stude31
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Farther
Member
*****
Posts: 1680


Quimper Peninsula, WA


« Reply #1 on: September 11, 2009, 09:00:05 AM »

One inch makes a big difference in corning.  Since I put my one inch peg lowing kit on I drag my pegs all the time where I never did before.
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Thanks,
~Farther
Black Dog
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Posts: 2606


VRCC # 7111

Merton Wisconsin 53029


« Reply #2 on: September 11, 2009, 09:06:24 AM »

While the 12" shocks will put you lower than the 13" shocks, compairing that to a 1" Peg relo kit, is not the same...  The shocks sit on an angle, and the peg relo is 1" straight down. 

I don't know the exact geometry, but if you are looking for maximum cornering clearance, I'd be looking for a 13.5" (stock length) shock.  I was running 11'5" 412's (wanted a lower look), but when I added the fairing and IS Trunk, I went back to the 13.5" 412's, and love the difference.

BTW, I'm 6''2" and weigh in at 275.

Black Dog
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Jess from VA
Member
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Posts: 30447


No VA


« Reply #3 on: September 11, 2009, 09:28:56 AM »

When I got my supervalk, it had 12.5" 440s and those even made the bike drag noticably sooner than the 13" 440s on my other IS (both with cobra boards, which will drag a bit sooner than pegs).  I traded out the 12.5s to 13" which is OE length (but probably a tad taller than OE 13 inchers).  I'm 5'9 with a 29" inseam so 13s are it for me, but both bikes have the boards ground down on the outer edges even with 13" 440s as I like to go like the hammers of hell through the twisties.

Depending on how much you like to lean over in the corners and how long your legs are (and how often you lug a backseater), I'd get at least the 13s.  And make sure you do your homework and get HD or std rate springs for you, your backseater and gear.  They are expensive but warranted for life if you keep your receipt. You can try to recoup some of the cost by selling your 12's (if no one wants to do a straight trade).

First, go out and drop a tape, eye to eye, on yours to make sure of the length.  Progressive has pretty good tech advice, but why not measure yourself?
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alan
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« Reply #4 on: September 11, 2009, 10:15:35 AM »

I went from 13" to 12" and now I'm flat-footed solo as opposed to the balls of my feet. I'm 5'6" with a 29" inseam. When the 12" are properly adjusted for a passenger I'm not any lower than solo. The 440's with HD springs give so much adjustment that I find the big difference is in backing up and being stopped.  I had a lifetime of diving into corners with brake pads smoking and my hair on fire riding the Kawi hyper-bikes, I'm way more relaxed now.

I was thinking a Saddlemen seat that is 2" lower than stock for my super conversion, but the lower I sit the more I have to deal with the weight being up high. I have a bad left shoulder that makes two-up a challenge when it gets tired. Maybe I'll rake it and put the darkside tire back on. The PO put a brand new tire on the rear cause he didn't think it would sell with the CT. One bike and so many possibilities.
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center12
Member
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Posts: 12

Lawrence KS


« Reply #5 on: September 24, 2009, 07:45:21 PM »

Hey Joe, my bike has 440-13" on it and I sit too high. I can't find any numbers on the shock other than the spring number, looks like they use that spring on their 13"-13.5" models. The mounting holes measure 13" center to center. You wanna swap shock for a bit.........see if that's what we want? I know I'd like to be able to flat-foot the beast!! Give me a yell. Charlie
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