|
ripper980
|
 |
« on: January 20, 2016, 05:16:02 PM » |
|
Hi folks, Just put the rear wheel and caliper back on bike after doing some spline cleaning and greasing. Noticed the caliper bracket is running real close to the inside of the rear rotor. The bracket is not rubbing the rear rotor, but is real tight to the rotor Everything is back in place proper. I did install a new rotor on the rear wheel and swapped out the OEM spline O-rings for the redeye poly versions. Is this normal ?  |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
ride to work, work to ride  |
|
|
|
Hook#3287
|
|
« Reply #1 on: January 20, 2016, 05:38:39 PM » |
|
Just checked your picture against two of mine, but it's hard to see cause I've got the bags still on.
But from what I can see, your rotor does look like it's a little closer to the bracket than both of mine.
Are you sure everything is tightened up right and in the correct order?
Is the rear wheel spinning freely and without any noise?
Have you applied the rear brakes yet?
If re-installed correctly, the rear tire assembly is pretty foolproof and goes together nicely.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Skinhead
Member
Posts: 8727
J. A. B. O. A.
Troy, MI
|
|
« Reply #2 on: January 20, 2016, 05:39:47 PM » |
|
R U sure the rotor was installed in the proper rotation? I believe there is an arrow that should be visible on the rotor. If you reversed it, could be the problem, but that is just a guess at this point.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
 Troy, MI |
|
|
|
ripper980
|
|
« Reply #3 on: January 20, 2016, 05:51:14 PM » |
|
yeah, everything is where it should be .. rear axle torqued to spec in manual.
Wheel turns freely, brakes applied a few times, work fine ..
New rotor is facing in the correct direction as it is marked " rear outside"
Just concerned about the bracket running to close to the new rotor ..
???
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
ride to work, work to ride |
|
|
|
Chrisj CMA
|
|
« Reply #4 on: January 20, 2016, 05:54:13 PM » |
|
There are two kinds of Valkyrie rear rotors they are not interchangeable.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Hook#3287
|
|
« Reply #5 on: January 20, 2016, 05:58:39 PM » |
|
Axle torque was my next question.
Sounds like you know what's up, if nothing is squeaking or rattling, I'd go with it and keep an eye on it.
As long as the spacer and bracket are in correct position and axle is torqued, can't see how it could be wrong.
Where did you get the rotor?
What year is your bike?
Seems like I remember there being a difference in the 97 rear rotors and rims, but you'd have to do a search on that.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Jack B
|
|
« Reply #6 on: January 20, 2016, 06:16:16 PM » |
|
Here is a picture of a Interstate or 2000 or newer rotor that I have for sale if that helps.  |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Let’s RIDE
|
|
|
|
ripper980
|
|
« Reply #7 on: January 20, 2016, 06:17:40 PM » |
|
Thxs for the replies ..
Bike is 1997 CT
Bought the parts (new) from my Honda dealer.
Rotor part number is 43251-MT8-000
I checked the old rotor with the new one before I installed it to the wheel and both appear to be the same, with no offset either way ..
I'm stumped on this one .. unless this is the way it is ?
I didn't check the bracket clearance before I tore the back end apart..
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
ride to work, work to ride |
|
|
Valkpilot
Member
Posts: 2151
What does the data say?
Corinth, Texas
|
|
« Reply #8 on: January 20, 2016, 06:19:30 PM » |
|
With the brake pads fully retracted or removed, the caliper should move freely from side to side. Sometimes the pin they ride on gets gunked up and keeps the caliper from positioning properly.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
VRCC #19757 IBA #44686 1998 Black Standard 2007 Goldwing   |
|
|
|
ripper980
|
|
« Reply #9 on: January 20, 2016, 06:28:25 PM » |
|
Not a caliper issue, it moves fine, new pads, pin etc ..
It's the caliper bracket position to the rotor that is concerning ..
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
ride to work, work to ride |
|
|
|
Hook#3287
|
|
« Reply #10 on: January 20, 2016, 06:43:09 PM » |
|
That's the right part number.
As long as Honda sent you the right one and had the right one in the package, you should be set there.
Seeing as you compared them, I'd say that's not an issue.
If you didn't mess with the bearings, what else could be wrong?
If no one else jumps in, in the morning, I'll take one of my bags off and get a closer look, send a pic.
Need to take em off anyways.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
ripper980
|
|
« Reply #11 on: January 20, 2016, 07:01:02 PM » |
|
Thxs Hook  I really don't want to tear into the rear end again, but if you can have a look at your setup and if it looks something like I got here, I can breathe some relief.. |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
ride to work, work to ride |
|
|
|
indybobm
|
|
« Reply #12 on: January 20, 2016, 07:35:51 PM » |
|
It is possible that a previous owner replaced the rear wheel with a later model. Look at the hub on the left side where the casting number is. You are looking for a '1J' or a '2J'. A 1J wheel is for a 97-99 Std or Tourer. A 2J is for 2000-2003 Std and all Interstates. I believe you find a 2J on your wheel. If so, you need the later rotor, part # 43251-MBY-671. If your wheel has a 1J, then you bought the correct rotor.  |
|
|
|
« Last Edit: January 20, 2016, 07:41:43 PM by indybobm »
|
Logged
|
So many roads, so little time
VRCC # 5258
|
|
|
|
ripper980
|
|
« Reply #13 on: January 21, 2016, 02:48:05 AM » |
|
Wheel has a 1J cast mark on it ..
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
ride to work, work to ride |
|
|
mustang071965
Member
Posts: 165
those that dare, Succeed.
monticello Ar
|
|
« Reply #14 on: January 21, 2016, 05:24:42 AM » |
|
crazy question. you by any chance stick the axle collar in backwards? ( little end out big end in ) that would cause the wheel to be pulled off set.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Chrisj CMA
|
|
« Reply #15 on: January 21, 2016, 05:25:30 AM » |
|
as long as the rotor you have DOES NOT look like the one in the picture in the post above your last post. You should have capped mounting bolts not countersunk.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Chrisj CMA
|
|
« Reply #16 on: January 21, 2016, 05:29:38 AM » |
|
crazy question. you by any chance stick the axle collar in backwards? ( little end out big end in ) that would cause the wheel to be pulled off set.
lol.......come on dude, there's no extra space there to allow the spacer to be put in backwards. That's just silly, ypu would need an extra 1/2 inch or so |
|
|
|
« Last Edit: January 21, 2016, 05:41:09 AM by Chrisj CMA »
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Hook#3287
|
|
« Reply #18 on: January 21, 2016, 05:45:39 AM » |
|
as long as the rotor you have DOES NOT look like the one in the picture in the post above your last post. You should have capped mounting bolts not countersunk.
 This is what your rotor bolts should look like on a 1 J Did you reuse the old bolts or get new? |
|
|
|
« Last Edit: January 21, 2016, 05:47:50 AM by Hook#3287 »
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
ripper980
|
|
« Reply #19 on: January 21, 2016, 08:34:18 AM » |
|
Yep. My rotor is the non- countersunk hole version. Yes I did install new bolts as well.
The spacer is installed correct as well.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
ride to work, work to ride |
|
|
mustang071965
Member
Posts: 165
those that dare, Succeed.
monticello Ar
|
|
« Reply #20 on: January 21, 2016, 08:37:29 AM » |
|
cris no its possible, cause i did it by mistake the first time i did rear wheel service, how it happened i have no clue but it went into place and caused every thing to be thrown out of wake. that is the reason i said crazy question.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Hook#3287
|
|
« Reply #21 on: January 21, 2016, 08:47:57 AM » |
|
Yep. My rotor is the non- countersunk hole version. Yes I did install new bolts as well.
The spacer is installed correct as well.
Welp, as I stated before, nothing is scrapping or moving the wrong way, then you should be good. |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Tfrank59
Member
Posts: 1364
'98 Tourer
Western Washington
|
|
« Reply #22 on: January 21, 2016, 09:15:02 AM » |
|
my first thought looking at your photo was different years rotors are not the same, and somehow you ended up with the wrong rotor. I have a 98 tourer and got ahold of a 01 back wheel with rotor and somewhere on this forum (about 5 mos ago?) I spec'd out the differences between them, which has to do with the counterbore/recess on the later model rotors making them incompatible (creates a lateral offset about 2 mm if memory serves). if that's not what this is, then it's just plain strange. Let us know what you find out.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
-Tom
Keep the rubber side down. USMC '78-'84
'98 Valkyrie, ‘02 VTX 1800, '96 Royal Star, '06 Drifter, '09 Bonneville, '10 KTM 530, '04 XR 650, '76 Bultaco, '81 CR 450, '78 GS 750...
|
|
|
Tfrank59
Member
Posts: 1364
'98 Tourer
Western Washington
|
|
« Reply #23 on: January 21, 2016, 09:23:19 AM » |
|
my first thought looking at your photo was different years rotors are not the same, and somehow you ended up with the wrong rotor. I have a 98 tourer and got ahold of a 01 back wheel with rotor and somewhere on this forum (about 5 mos ago?) I spec'd out the differences between them, which has to do with the counterbore/recess on the later model rotors making them incompatible (creates a lateral offset about 2 mm if memory serves). if that's not what this is, then it's just plain strange. Let us know what you find out.
Ok, I just searched and here's the post that describes the offset amount, which is about 1.5mm or .06"--looks about like what you have on your bike  : http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,80852.msg793849.html#msg793849 |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
-Tom
Keep the rubber side down. USMC '78-'84
'98 Valkyrie, ‘02 VTX 1800, '96 Royal Star, '06 Drifter, '09 Bonneville, '10 KTM 530, '04 XR 650, '76 Bultaco, '81 CR 450, '78 GS 750...
|
|
|
|
ripper980
|
|
« Reply #24 on: January 21, 2016, 02:52:50 PM » |
|
Thxs for all the replies and help..
Pretty sure all the parts I have are right for this year of bike..
Gonna take the back wheel off again and look at everything up close and personal to see what's up.
I will post back results.
Dan
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
ride to work, work to ride |
|
|
|
indybobm
|
|
« Reply #25 on: January 21, 2016, 03:45:49 PM » |
|
Since you are taking the wheel off again, see if the clearance opens up when you loosen the axle bolt.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
So many roads, so little time
VRCC # 5258
|
|
|
|
ripper980
|
|
« Reply #26 on: January 21, 2016, 04:12:44 PM » |
|
Yeah, as soon as I loosened the axle nut off, I can move the bracket around and center it over the rotor, but once I torque the nut to 81 ft/lbs again, the bracket goes back to where it was before I started.. Got the rear off again, see no issues with the new parts or the original install I did ... this is weird.. Been wrenching bikes for 30 years, never seen this happen ever ..  |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
ride to work, work to ride |
|
|
|
Chrisj CMA
|
|
« Reply #27 on: January 21, 2016, 04:38:36 PM » |
|
Could one of the spacers be missing, either inside the final drive or inside the wheel between the bearings
|
|
|
|
« Last Edit: January 21, 2016, 04:46:02 PM by Chrisj CMA »
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
ripper980
|
|
« Reply #28 on: January 21, 2016, 04:58:55 PM » |
|
Nope .. everything is where it should be .. Pretty simple rear end setup on this bike .. I even put a new thrust washer in the mix as well .. What I did was put a couple of feeler blades on the narrow side between the bracket and rotor when I re-torqued everything back together.. Removed the feeler blades after doing the torque and now have the rotor sitting near in the middle of the slot .. Just enough to burp the bracket over ...when tightening it all up.. I guess after 100,000km there may be a tad of slop on the hole in the bracket, who knows ? All good now ... thxs for all the help and info on this one folks ! Time to finish off my forks now .. |
|
|
|
« Last Edit: January 21, 2016, 05:01:02 PM by ripper980 »
|
Logged
|
ride to work, work to ride |
|
|
|
