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Author Topic: oil change  (Read 1777 times)
wilcoy02
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Posts: 9

Marengo, Ohio


« on: January 25, 2016, 03:46:10 PM »

to change oil with a filter is 3.9 qts.

How much oil is needed if the filter is not replaced?


I am putting the bike up for the winter. Filter and oil was changed under 900 miles. I will replace the filter next spring when I change the oil.
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Gryphon Rider
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Posts: 5227


2000 Tourer

Calgary, Alberta


« Reply #1 on: January 25, 2016, 04:13:57 PM »

Not sure, but if you're going to change it before you ride it in the spring anyway, why not just drain the oil now and add new when you have the filter in the spring?  Or if you have the filter now, why not just do the full oil change now, so you're ready to fire it up and go in the spring.  It's what I do every fall.  There's no point in pouring oil in it now, only to drain the same new oil out later.

In case your plan is to fire it up every few weeks and not ride it, there is absolutely no benefit to that plan, and you chance discolouring your headers.
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98valk
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South Jersey


« Reply #2 on: January 25, 2016, 04:35:29 PM »

overfilling will not hurt unless riding down the road. for storage O-F might be better less metal exposed.
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
Bighead
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Posts: 8654


Madison Alabama


« Reply #3 on: January 25, 2016, 07:21:12 PM »

And why change it after only 900 miles?
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1997 Bumble Bee
1999 Interstate (sold)
2016 Wing
wilcoy02
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Posts: 9

Marengo, Ohio


« Reply #4 on: January 25, 2016, 10:14:11 PM »

I do not want to leave all the containments  oil in the bike. 900 miles is when I rode this bike from Alaska to Ohio and I feel it needs to be removed. I drained the oil out but not the filter.

I do not start the bike up just to hear it in the winter. Causes to much condensation on parts and it is not good for the bike. I only start it if there is no snow, ice, or salt on the roads and I ride it at least 20 miles. I do ride when it is 10F.


I just want to know how much oil w/out a filter change.
 
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98valk
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South Jersey


« Reply #5 on: January 26, 2016, 02:59:57 AM »

I do not want to leave all the containments  oil in the bike. 900 miles is when I rode this bike from Alaska to Ohio and I feel it needs to be removed. I drained the oil out but not the filter.

I do not start the bike up just to hear it in the winter. Causes to much condensation on parts and it is not good for the bike. I only start it if there is no snow, ice, or salt on the roads and I ride it at least 20 miles. I do ride when it is 10F.


I just want to know how much oil w/out a filter change.
 


what contaminants? the oil was hot, after 900 miles, they were burned off from your last start. What oil are u using? what is the TBN? a large TBN will prevent anything from happening from sitting for a few months. at 900 miles the oil is new. the only contaminants there could be are acids, fuel and water. if the engine was hot and then parked, fuel and water are gone. and at 900 miles any oil today will have enough TBN to do away with the acids.
www.bobistheoilguy.com  learn more about oil and not the marketing people who want to sell oil.
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
..
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Posts: 27796


Maggie Valley, NC


« Reply #6 on: January 26, 2016, 04:48:07 AM »

I do not want to leave all the containments  oil in the bike. 900 miles is when I rode this bike from Alaska to Ohio and I feel it needs to be removed. I drained the oil out but not the filter.

I do not start the bike up just to hear it in the winter. Causes to much condensation on parts and it is not good for the bike. I only start it if there is no snow, ice, or salt on the roads and I ride it at least 20 miles. I do ride when it is 10F.


I just want to know how much oil w/out a filter change.
 

Measure what comes out and put that amount back in?
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signart
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Posts: 2095


Crossville, Tennessee


« Reply #7 on: January 26, 2016, 06:30:23 AM »

3 qts of clean oil + 1 qt. of contaminated oil = 4 qts. of contaminated oil.
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98valk
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Posts: 13487


South Jersey


« Reply #8 on: January 26, 2016, 07:11:19 AM »

3 qts of clean oil + 1 qt. of contaminated oil = 4 qts. of contaminated oil.

every time u change your oil it is contaminated with the residual oil left in the engine. tech manual list exact amount, tend to remember it was 1/4 of a quart.
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
signart
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*****
Posts: 2095


Crossville, Tennessee


« Reply #9 on: January 26, 2016, 08:10:17 AM »

3 qts of clean oil + 1 qt. of contaminated oil = 4 qts. of contaminated oil.

every time u change your oil it is contaminated with the residual oil left in the engine. tech manual list exact amount, tend to remember it was 1/4 of a quart.

Then, we agree.
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Chrisj CMA
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Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #10 on: January 26, 2016, 08:30:21 AM »

I do not want to leave all the containments  oil in the bike. 900 miles is when I rode this bike from Alaska to Ohio and I feel it needs to be removed. I drained the oil out but not the filter.

I do not start the bike up just to hear it in the winter. Causes to much condensation on parts and it is not good for the bike. I only start it if there is no snow, ice, or salt on the roads and I ride it at least 20 miles. I do ride when it is 10F.


I just want to know how much oil w/out a filter change.
 

You are being too scientific.  Don't bother with that 3.9 number.  Valkyries take a gallon if drained properly.  It doesn't take a rocket scientist too look at the size of that tiny oil filter and deduce that it can't hold more than a cup or so

So you leave a good cup in the bottle for the fourth quart and call it good....

Or just keep checking the dipstic as you get close.

Oil changing 101.  Don't make it harder than it is
« Last Edit: January 26, 2016, 08:32:21 AM by Chrisj CMA » Logged
NDFRC
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Orange Park FL


« Reply #11 on: January 26, 2016, 09:05:32 AM »

900 miles from Alaska to Ohio, what route is that?
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..
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Maggie Valley, NC


« Reply #12 on: January 26, 2016, 09:14:16 AM »

900 miles from Alaska to Ohio, what route is that?

The AK - OH worm hole  Cheesy
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #13 on: January 26, 2016, 10:39:54 AM »

900 miles from Alaska to Ohio, what route is that?

The AK - OH worm hole  Cheesy
Grin wonder if one will open up to get me to Oss's Catskill ride in a few hours ?
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DK
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Posts: 616


Little Rock


« Reply #14 on: January 26, 2016, 11:41:06 AM »

Whatever you decide to do, prior to riding the bike next spring, install a new filter and fill with 1 full gallon of oil.

When you properly check the oil after running the engine a few minutes to fill the new filter, you will find the oil level to be perfect.

Per the manual, to properly check the oil, remove the dipstick, wipe it clean and then re-insert it without turning the dipstick into the threads, then remove it and check the oil level. Checked this way, it will be right on the mark.

If you decide to reuse your 900 mile filter, remove the filter, hold it with attachment side down and drain the oil from the filter by depressing the one-way valve and then replace the filter. Doing it thes way, filling with a full gallon wil result in overfilling by a couple of teaspoons. Without draining the filter, I'm guessing a full gallon would result in overfilling.by 1/2 cup or so.

Personally, with only 900 miles of highway miles only over a span of only a few days, I would not change either the oil or the filter.

Dan

Dan
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wilcoy02
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Marengo, Ohio


« Reply #15 on: January 26, 2016, 01:01:03 PM »

I bought the valk in Alberta Canada after my 1100 of 35 years died. I bought  the valk  while up there to finish my trip. I changed the oil and filter in it about 900 miles from home. The oil I took out was very dirty. So I just want to change the oil to clean out what ever was in it before I bought it.

I thought this would be a very simple answer.

Thanks for all the responses.
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John Schmidt
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a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« Reply #16 on: January 26, 2016, 04:26:44 PM »

It really is quite simple. Drain the current oil and remove the filter, done after the engine has warmed the oil. Put the oil drain plug in, fill the filter almost to the top with new oil and mount it. Then dump the rest of the gallon jug into the crankcase and you're done. Run the engine to check for any leaks and to circulate the new oil then shut down and forget it. Next spring, just start it and ride it for 4k miles or so if it's not synthetic oil, or 8k miles if it is. When you check it on the dipstick, be certain the bike is upright and as stated....don't screw it in to check.
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Gryphon Rider
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Posts: 5227


2000 Tourer

Calgary, Alberta


« Reply #17 on: January 27, 2016, 07:01:56 AM »

...fill the filter almost to the top with new oil and mount it.


That sounds like a way to oil the garage floor, to me.

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jdp
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Posts: 446


« Reply #18 on: January 27, 2016, 07:08:25 AM »

Just change the filter too and then it's done with
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John Schmidt
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a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« Reply #19 on: January 27, 2016, 07:37:26 AM »

...fill the filter almost to the top with new oil and mount it.


That sounds like a way to oil the garage floor, to me.



 Grin  Yeah, it was the first time I did it some years ago and why I don't fill it all the way. Since I have the flat drain container already there from draining the crankcase and removing the filter, I shove it under the filter when replacing it. If it oozes a bit, the container catches it but usually it's only a few drops at best. And when on the centerstand, the front is already tilted forward which makes it even less messy.  cooldude  It's easier on our car, the filter is vertical so there is no loss on the driveway. It's just a royal PITA to get off.  Angry
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..
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Posts: 27796


Maggie Valley, NC


« Reply #20 on: January 27, 2016, 07:53:45 AM »

Just change the filter too and then it's done with

The quiet voice of sanity and reason  cooldude
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Fazer
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Posts: 947


West Chester (Cincinnati), Ohio


« Reply #21 on: January 27, 2016, 11:28:13 AM »

Sure---but what's the best oil???

Popcorn is popping.
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Nothing in moderation...
Gideon
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Posts: 462


Indianapolis, IN.


« Reply #22 on: January 27, 2016, 01:39:24 PM »

Sure---but what's the best oil???

This should be interesting !!!
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But they that wait upon the Lord shall renew their strength; they shall mount up with wings as eagles; they shall run and not be weary; they shall walk, and not faint.  Isaiah 40:31
..
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Posts: 27796


Maggie Valley, NC


« Reply #23 on: January 27, 2016, 01:41:16 PM »

Sure---but what's the best oil???

Popcorn is popping.

AAAAARRRRRGGGGGHHHHH!!!!!
« Last Edit: January 27, 2016, 01:43:00 PM by Britman » Logged
98valk
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Posts: 13487


South Jersey


« Reply #24 on: January 27, 2016, 03:07:45 PM »

Sure---but what's the best oil???

Popcorn is popping.


http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,65911.0.html

why only a heavy duty diesel oil should be used

http://www.lngpublishing.com/LNGmagazine/index.cfm
this months issue
http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/e9f4b3fd#/e9f4b3fd/1

see article  Two-wheelers love oil too!

they have a pic of the new goldwing valkyrie as a bonus.
JASO spec'd motorcycle oil are basically the same specs as heavy-duty diesel oil standards.
JASO does not test oils, manufactures pay a fee to JASO and state their oil meets the specs.

see article, another grade for the heavy-duty upgrade?

even better diesel oils coming into the market much better wear protection and using a 10w30 for better mpg.

use technical facts not emotional logic and one will save money on oil and fuel costs.
I have posted my used oil analysis before using 10w30 diesel oil for 8k miles from the hot summer through a cold winter riding with the bike sitting for 1 month, one of the toughest conditions for an oil. UOA came back normal to low wear and oil was still good for continued use, at least another 2k miles.

for one example there have been posts by others who run rotella 5w40 for 10 k miles and have over 100k miles on the bike.
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
Gryphon Rider
Member
*****
Posts: 5227


2000 Tourer

Calgary, Alberta


« Reply #25 on: January 27, 2016, 03:52:32 PM »

Sure---but what's the best oil???

Popcorn is popping.


An article I found about the best oil.  YMMV
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DK
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Posts: 616


Little Rock


« Reply #26 on: January 27, 2016, 07:46:30 PM »



We all forgot about a new crush washer. Anybody have a favorite brand?

Dan
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98valk
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Posts: 13487


South Jersey


« Reply #27 on: January 28, 2016, 03:08:24 AM »



We all forgot about a new crush washer. Anybody have a favorite brand?

Dan


still using same one from factory after 45k miles. zero leakage.

and I don't use magnets on my oil filter. magnets only catch the same micron size that the oil filter already does catch.
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
DK
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Posts: 616


Little Rock


« Reply #28 on: January 28, 2016, 08:15:59 AM »

Guess I'm a little sensitive about crush washers lately.

About a month ago I reused a crush washer on my wife's BMW X-5. The d^** thing is leaking about one drop / day in the garage & wife is on me about it & I'm going to have to drain the oil & refill it.

It hasn't been an issue for the Valk as the filters come with a washer included.

I don't use a magnet either but I always cut the filter open and see what it has caught on all my engines and before I purchase any used engine.

Dan
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Machinery has a mysterious soul and a mind of its own.
98valk
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Posts: 13487


South Jersey


« Reply #29 on: January 28, 2016, 09:22:05 AM »

Guess I'm a little sensitive about crush washers lately.

About a month ago I reused a crush washer on my wife's BMW X-5. The d^** thing is leaking about one drop / day in the garage & wife is on me about it & I'm going to have to drain the oil & refill it.

It hasn't been an issue for the Valk as the filters come with a washer included.

I don't use a magnet either but I always cut the filter open and see what it has caught on all my engines and before I purchase any used engine.

Dan

yep some CWs can be reused many times, others, they don't like u.

try another 1/8 to 1/4 turn tight, 1/2 tighter max, should stop leaking.
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
DK
Member
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Posts: 616


Little Rock


« Reply #30 on: January 28, 2016, 09:44:41 AM »

Didn't work, just slowed it.

It was a copper ring rather than a real crush washer with a silicone center of which I now have a package of 10 given to me by our filling station owner.

Dan

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Machinery has a mysterious soul and a mind of its own.
98valk
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Posts: 13487


South Jersey


« Reply #31 on: January 28, 2016, 12:22:35 PM »

Didn't work, just slowed it.

It was a copper ring rather than a real crush washer with a silicone center of which I now have a package of 10 given to me by our filling station owner.

Dan



yep, copper usually only once or twice their good for,
aluminum many times in my experience.
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
Gideon
Member
*****
Posts: 462


Indianapolis, IN.


« Reply #32 on: January 29, 2016, 03:54:56 PM »

Sure---but what's the best oil???

This should be interesting !!!

I said it would be interesting.

Crush Washers - Why not go with a pack of ten from your local ACE Hardware Store.
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But they that wait upon the Lord shall renew their strength; they shall mount up with wings as eagles; they shall run and not be weary; they shall walk, and not faint.  Isaiah 40:31
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