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cogsman
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« on: February 01, 2016, 06:17:26 PM » |
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Hi All, So I removed my front wheel as I need to replace a leaky stem and possibly the tire as well. I decided to change my fork oil and make sure those are in good working condition. As I am doing this, I ran into a couple of things that hopefully someone can help clarify: When I pulled out my forks I notice there was something that resembled dried glue or other adhesive at the points where the fork clamps to the tree:   What is this stuff? Do I need to put more on when I replace the forks? Should I clean this off, and if so, what's the best way? Here is a look at the top of the fork (the other is the same):  Am I looking at damage here, or is it just from the clamping pressure? If damaged, how bad? Lastly, I pulled the rotors off the wheel to give it a proper cleaning. I took some 0000 steel wool to the hub, and as I cleaned all the crap away I ran my finger along the hub surface. It isn't flat. It feels like there are grooves on the hub, which you may be able to see from this picture:  Is this normal? If not, is this a problem? The apparent grooves are very slight. Will this affect the rotors or the balance of the wheel? Guess what I'm asking is: is this wheel pooched? If so I might as well start saving for a new one. Last question: now that I have the rotors off, what is the best method to determine if they are warped (and thus need replacing)? I have checked their thickness and they are still within tolerance. But in a previous post, I detailed with video how the brakes seemed to be dragging on the rotor in spots. This leads to 1 of 3 possibilities: - Warped wheel (I am going to measure runout soon) - Defective calipers (I am going to buy replacements anyway, then get mine serviced) - Warped rotors (which is why I am asking the question above) All help is appreciated! |
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« Last Edit: February 01, 2016, 06:20:16 PM by cogsman »
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Bighead
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« Reply #1 on: February 01, 2016, 07:01:11 PM » |
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Looks like from the pictures that your forks are polished? And your triple trees chromed?
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1997 Bumble Bee
1999 Interstate (sold)
2016 Wing
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cogsman
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« Reply #2 on: February 01, 2016, 07:18:59 PM » |
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Hey bighead. To your question: ummm... yes? Honestly I have no idea. I bought the bike, and what you see is what I got.
Assuming yes, what can you tell me?
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da prez
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« Reply #3 on: February 01, 2016, 07:38:16 PM » |
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Looks like oxidation from some type of cleaner. Try your steel wool for cleanup. Remove the pinch bolts and run a tap in the thread holes. Wire wheel or use a thread die to clean the bolts. When you reassemble , torque the bolts.
For the rotor , use a straight edge and check in several spots across the entire rotor. This is not as accurate as having it mounted and turning it to check run out.
Clean the rotor mounting surface and lightly flat file to check for high spots. I would also clean the threads as above. Torque all bolts and nuts by the book.
Any more questions , just post .
da prez
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WintrSol
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« Reply #4 on: February 02, 2016, 08:02:37 AM » |
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That stuff on the fork tubes just looks like cleaners or waxes used on the bike seeped into the gap and hardened there. A good cleaning agent should get it off. The grooves in the wheel hub are machining marks; that is not a load-bearing surface, so as long as the rotor fits over it, just clean it and don't worry. If you have access to a set, a thread chaser is better than a tap, as it is made to clean out threads, not cut them. As for testing the rotor, carefully torque it to the wheel, skipping bolts as you would on a wheel or head, then put the wheel back on. You don't have to torque the axle or other bolts, just make them snug. Then fashion a run-out gauge; a real one is best, but you can attach something with a point (like a pencil) to the fork tube and get it very close to touching the rotor. Rotate the wheel, and watch the rotor, to see if, and how much, it moves closer or farther from your pointer - it shouldn't be much.
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98 Honda Valkyrie GL1500CT Tourer
Photo of my FIL Jack, in honor of his WWII service
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Ricky-D
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« Reply #5 on: February 02, 2016, 08:42:14 AM » |
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Its never recommended to run a tap into a threaded hole, especially if the hole is threaded into aluminum. There is
no benefit derived from trying to recut the threads, the tap will not simply remove foreign matter, and reducing the
strength of the threads will be the only result. If the need is strong to want to do something like this aforementioned
action, thread chasers are the recommended tool. Thread chasers are not taps and will not damage the threads. If the
need is to simply clean out the threaded hole, use a solvent and air pressure, save the threads.
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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cogsman
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« Reply #6 on: February 02, 2016, 09:27:22 AM » |
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So WintrSol am I correct in assuming that the hub surface is not necessarily supposed to be perfectly flat?
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WintrSol
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« Reply #7 on: February 02, 2016, 10:49:12 AM » |
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So WintrSol am I correct in assuming that the hub surface is not necessarily supposed to be perfectly flat?
For that part of the hub, it doesn't need to be. |
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98 Honda Valkyrie GL1500CT Tourer
Photo of my FIL Jack, in honor of his WWII service
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pancho
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« Reply #8 on: February 02, 2016, 12:05:51 PM » |
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The surface where the rotor mounts should be a flat surface,, it looks as if it was boogered up a bit at some time when the rotors were off. After you clean up the wheel, put the rotors back on, put the axle in the whel and mount it in a jig or back on the bike and check the run out of the rotors to see if they are in spec. Like others have said about the tubes, just clean them up and observe proper torque when putting them back in the clamps.
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The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.
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« Reply #9 on: February 02, 2016, 03:02:07 PM » |
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sandy
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« Reply #10 on: February 02, 2016, 03:36:13 PM » |
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When you're all done mounting the wheel. Pump up the brakes. Spin the wheel and see if the lever feels the same. If the rotor is warped, the lever will have to pump up again.
The scraping you mention could be from the wheel being improperly mounted the last time it was off. Go by the book and see if it goes away.
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da prez
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« Reply #11 on: February 02, 2016, 05:20:47 PM » |
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Ricky, I suggest the tap as it is more common tool. The only problem I have run into with thread chasers is on some there is very little relief in the grooves for the locktite. I have been using taps and thread chasers for a long time and prefer the taps. Each person has their own way and if it works , go for it. Most cases I have found that to much sealer or lock tie is used. Using the proper gh size tap will not damage the threads. Threading into dirty hole will.
d.prez
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cogsman
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« Reply #12 on: February 02, 2016, 05:28:52 PM » |
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Britman: yes probably. Others on the board have recommended it.
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DK
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« Reply #14 on: February 03, 2016, 10:41:29 AM » |
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If you don't have a thread chaser, you can make a "down & dirty" one by taking a bolt of the same size and filing 2 or 3 grooves in the bolt and turning it thru the threads.
This will remove dried loctite etc. although I have no concern about leaving old loctite alone. I mainly use this as a method to repair damaged threads.
When filing the notch, turn your triangular file so as to cause a 90 degree face from the radius of the bolt to face the direction of tightening the bolt so as to have a sharp edge facing the threads as the bolt turns thru the threads.
Afterward, put the bolt in your funny tools drawer as it's handy to have around.
Dan
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Machinery has a mysterious soul and a mind of its own.
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Skinhead
Member
Posts: 8727
J. A. B. O. A.
Troy, MI
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« Reply #15 on: February 03, 2016, 11:32:25 AM » |
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If I wereas concerned about this as you appear to be, I would bolt up the rotors and check the run out, if there is excessive runout, I would either true up the flatness of the mounting surface with a file, (spin the wheel, hold the file steady) or have a machine shop remove a couple thou to true it up. If that were mine, I would probably just bolt it up. I didn't read all the posts in this thread, but were you experiencing any pulsation in the brake level prior to removal? |
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 Troy, MI |
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WintrSol
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« Reply #16 on: February 03, 2016, 12:23:45 PM » |
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One thing I noticed about the rotor is the marks on the rivets that hold the ring to the hub. Those look like impact marks from the caliper housing. This happens if the gap between the rotor and caliper housing is less than stated in the manual; heard in on mine.
Try rotating the rotor one bolt-hole at a time, and rechecking the wobble, to see if it sits better in some position. I suspect the scarring may be from a previous removal of the rotor, and the 'mechanic' used pry bars or screwdrivers to separate it. If you find a rotation that lets it rest flat enough, I'd bolt it together and check runout.
Oh, and I thought the grooves you were asking about were the turning marks on the cylinder parts of the hub.
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« Last Edit: February 03, 2016, 12:25:46 PM by WintrSol »
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98 Honda Valkyrie GL1500CT Tourer
Photo of my FIL Jack, in honor of his WWII service
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mark81
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« Reply #17 on: February 03, 2016, 08:35:15 PM » |
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I wouldn't worry about the grooves as much as the high spots. If you put a straight edge across and lightly file down just the high spots so your rotor seats flush you will be fine. As far as it throwing off the balance of the wheel, don't worry about it, the material removed is so small and toward the center of the mass it wont affect it.
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1997 Honda Valkyrie 1981 Honda CB750 Custom  |
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