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Author Topic: dbl row bearing mod  (Read 1304 times)
N0tac0p
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Posts: 413



« on: February 02, 2016, 10:21:57 AM »

I have read the shop talk on this and have also read comments about doing it......

is there anyone with enough mileage on that can say whether or not the removal of the dust seal affected bearing performance?
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pancho
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Posts: 2113


Bonanza Arkansas


« Reply #1 on: February 02, 2016, 12:15:21 PM »

I thought about doing the mod at one point,,, but for the very reason you mentioned, I decided against it.
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The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.
John Schmidt
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Posts: 15223


a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« Reply #2 on: February 02, 2016, 02:32:41 PM »

I only have about 5k miles on my mod, but many others have many thousands of miles sans the dust seal with no trouble. That entire area is pretty well protected as it is, all I did was add a layer of grease to cover it before mounting the wheel.
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Skinhead
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J. A. B. O. A.

Troy, MI


« Reply #3 on: February 02, 2016, 04:21:39 PM »

There is no need to eliminate the dust seal, you just need to add a little JB weld to the wheel.  I have done it this way on 2 bikes so far and no problems.  First dueo the bearing mod, Clean the area around the bearing on the wheel with solvent to remove any grease or oil, then cut a strip of plastic from an old bottle or something, Make a circular mold around the end of the wheel where the seal will now go, make it as high as the seal will be when installed.  coat the inside of the mold lightly with vaseline, grease or oil to prevent it sticking to the JB weld.  Secure the mold with tape, slide the axle thru the wheel, put the seal on and let it rest on side of the bearing, insert the spacer into the seal to locate it and keep it centered on the axle.  Mix up the JB weld and fill the cavity between the seal and the mold and let it set up, then remove the mold and sand/file the JB weld if necessary to smooth things out.  This will keep the seal in place and you don't have to worry about dirt/dust/water intrusion. 
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Troy, MI
N0tac0p
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« Reply #4 on: February 03, 2016, 06:34:04 AM »

why would you want a permanent mount of the seal?

shouldn't you also apply a thin film of vasoline to the circumference of the seal so the JB wont stick to it?
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Skinhead
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J. A. B. O. A.

Troy, MI


« Reply #5 on: February 03, 2016, 06:39:41 AM »

You can if you want to.  I would not to be sure the deal is retained,  you will always be able to remove it as the deal is rubber and will flex when you try to remove it, the mold on the other hand may adhere to the fresh jb weld.  Either way if the jb comes loose you can always redo it.
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Troy, MI
Jess from VA
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Posts: 30444


No VA


« Reply #6 on: February 03, 2016, 07:37:21 AM »

No double row failure has yet been reported, for any reason.  Of course this is exactly where you should never use a power washer.

Remember also that you can use one of those Nilos rings.  It is not discussed in the Shoptalk article, but was when the whole idea was first discussed.  The ring acts like a dust cover, just not part of the bearing itself.  There was also some discussion of removing a few more thousandths from the spacer to account for the few thousandths of the ring.  I think at least a few who did the mod also added the Nilos ring, but most of us didn't.  I've had the mod on two interstates for several years now, and no problem. 

I cannot remember exactly which one is supposed to be used, or how many extra thousandths is to be removed from the spacer to account for it.

http://www.skf.com/us/products/other-products/nilos-rings/index.html

http://www.skf.com/binary/30-228382/950-710-Nilos_08.pdf





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Ricky-D
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South Carolina midlands


« Reply #7 on: February 03, 2016, 10:02:05 AM »

I have read the shop talk on this and have also read comments about doing it......

is there anyone with enough mileage on that can say whether or not the removal of the dust seal affected bearing performance?

If you are using "performance" interchangeably with "reliability", be assured that removing the dust seal can only be interpreted

as a downgrade and a reduction of the reliability factor. Replacing a "known good" bearing is not a preventive maintenance enhancement.

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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
Fudd
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MSF RiderCoach

Denham Springs, La.


« Reply #8 on: February 04, 2016, 10:22:23 AM »

I've put 150,000 miles on a good quality double row bearing without issues. Still perfectly smooth, unlike the stock bearing that became rough with 50,000 miles.
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Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008
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Posts: 3025

Huffman, Texas close to Houston


« Reply #9 on: February 07, 2016, 10:05:44 PM »

Got over 100K on mine and still smooth as silk. I'm fixing to covert my other valk to a double roller shortly.
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Brian
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Posts: 996


Monroe, NC


« Reply #10 on: February 09, 2016, 02:36:26 AM »

I have done this mod with no problem at all. Each spring I do the spline greasing so this bearing gets a light coating of waterproof grease too. I never pressure wash my motorcycle.
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Blackduck
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Posts: 642


West Australia


« Reply #11 on: February 09, 2016, 02:52:40 AM »

Just make sure your use a sealed bearing, not one with shields.
Shields do not seal fully.
Sealed bearings are used in many places with more severe conditions than on our machines and they don't have extra dust seals.
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2001 Standard, 78 Goldwing, VRCC 21411
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