1st Gear clunk noise video

[Memor86]

Hello guy, can you have a look at the video I just uploaded to YouTube
 I am concerned about the noise that my bike does when engaging first gear
Clutch has been bleed thoroughly with a vacuum pump and the engine oil is new.
 I used 15w40 if I remember correctly.  While coming to a stop or a corner and I'm downshifting to 1st sometimes it pops back to neutral. 

 Should I be worried??

 Should I use thicker oil?? 

Any kind of feedback will be highly appreciated

  Here is the link for the video

https://youtu.be/WYZoh8UCrME

[flash2002]

Hi Memor, it sounds like the clutch is not going all the way. My bike clunks in first but not like that. Did you do any kind of change to the master or rebuild the slave, might still have air in line.

[Hook#3287]

What was the outcome here?

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,83736.msg824037.html#msg824037

As ChrisjCMA suggested, did the busing need replacing (easy)?

He also stated the dampner plate in the clutch may be toast (not as easy, but not that hard to fix)

Also, others asked about the slave cylinder.

If your clutch lever is still mussy, than hard at the closed position, and with the noise she's making when engaging 1st, I'd bet on the dampner rivets gone south.

[John Schmidt]

Your clutch simply isn't fully engaging, the cause is yet to be determined. Might be as simple as a worn bushing at the handle, or as involved as a clutch rebuild. Before doing a rebuild, be sure the handle is fully engaged with no air in the line, and the slave cylinder is working good. If all that checks out, then bite the bullet on a clutch redo. Keep us posted.

[sandy]

When your hand is on the lever, it looks like it doesn't go out all the way. Replace the plunger bushing in the lever and try it again.

[pancho]

Take a look at the fluid in the reservoir, and if it is lower than full, look under the bike at the slave cylinder to see if it is leaking.  Many of them have failed.

[DK]

Last fall I Had a much milder clunk with a slight surge forward even when at operating temperature. After bleeding the slave cylinder to no avail, I noticed that the clutch lever, when disengaged, was making contact with a raised pad of my oversize Kury grip.

I twisted the grip so the lever would contact the smaller metal part between the pads which lengthened the stroke and stopped the problem when hot. Of course, the clunk & surge continued with a cold engine.

There are adjustable levers on the market, I think for both the brake and the clutch. I've never seen one but I wonder if they are designed in a way that the throw of the clutch could be adjusted so as to lengthened the stroke of the master cylinder piston and alleviate this problem.

It seems to me that there should be some kind of adjustment to enable the piston stroke to reach completely to the end of the cylinder.

I seem to recall that the old British sports cars had such an adjustment.

It seems possible that the adjustable levers would solve the problem.

Dan

[Rio Wil]

My guess is you still have air in the line or a worn lever pivot bushing. These clutches engage/disengage pretty much at the outer 1/2 inch of travel of the lever.....you are way down to the rubber on the grip and still not fully released......how many miles on the bike?

[The emperor has no clothes]

Memor, I hope you are listening to these guys. Get it fixed. 

[Memor86]

Hello guys. Thank you for all the info you shared with me...

I had a lathe shop insert a new bushing on the lever as there was a lot of play and the hole was in oval shape. Couldn't get the switch to work. They made a new bushing for the push rod.

I really was skeptic that those lil things could cause so much trouble.

I also found the mc seal locally on a automotive parts dealer. Now I stopped the leak and it only cost me 8 mx peso.. Approximately 50 us cents.. Can't believe an automotive part would fit and that I found it so easily.

The results are really positive. Now the clutch feels really different. Engaging first gear feels really different. Before this, i could feel too much resistance on the shift lever when pushing into first gear and that would cause the loud clunk, now the shift lever feels to have more travel when going into first gear and stays in first gear.. No more jumping back to neutral.
Now theres no resiatance... there is a clunk sound but is no different than other Hondas I have owned.

So thank you!! I only had a short test ride but I hope my clutch troubles are gone for good... I will keep you  posted.

opt_20160204_225142.jpg -

[DK]

Hello guys. Thank you for all the info you shared with me...

I had a lathe shop insert a new bushing on the lever as there was a lot of play and the hole was in oval shape. Couldn't get the switch to work. They made a new bushing for the push rod.

I really was skeptic that those lil things could cause so much trouble.

I also found the mc seal locally on a automotive parts dealer. Now I stopped the leak and it only cost me 8 mx peso.. Approximately 50 us cents.. Can't believe an automotive part would fit and that I found it so easily.


What is the round flat disc in the pic of the clutch lever above?

I can't find it on the schemitic nor do I remember it on the bike when I removed the handle to check the bushing.

I suspect it may be a spacer for the cylinder piston rod. 

Dan
The results are really positive. Now the clutch feels really different. Engaging first gear feels really different. Before this, i could feel too much resistance on the shift lever when pushing into first gear and that would cause the loud clunk, now the shift lever feels to have more travel when going into first gear and stays in first gear.. No more jumping back to neutral.
Now theres no resiatance... there is a clunk sound but is no different than other Hondas I have owned.

So thank you!! I only had a short test ride but I hope my clutch troubles are gone for good... I will keep you  posted.

opt_20160204_225142.jpg -

[Rio Wil]

Hello guys. Thank you for all the info you shared with me...

I had a lathe shop insert a new bushing on the lever as there was a lot of play and the hole was in oval shape. Couldn't get the switch to work. They made a new bushing for the push rod.

I really was skeptic that those lil things could cause so much trouble.

I also found the mc seal locally on a automotive parts dealer. Now I stopped the leak and it only cost me 8 mx peso.. Approximately 50 us cents.. Can't believe an automotive part would fit and that I found it so easily.

The results are really positive. Now the clutch feels really different. Engaging first gear feels really different. Before this, i could feel too much resistance on the shift lever when pushing into first gear and that would cause the loud clunk, now the shift lever feels to have more travel when going into first gear and stays in first gear.. No more jumping back to neutral.
Now theres no resiatance... there is a clunk sound but is no different than other Hondas I have owned.

So thank you!! I only had a short test ride but I hope my clutch troubles are gone for good... I will keep you  posted.

opt_20160204_225142.jpg -

Ya mean something like this one?

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,74795.0.html