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Author Topic: Larger tank question  (Read 1138 times)
cogsman
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Posts: 260


Newmarket, Ontario, Canada


« on: February 08, 2016, 06:05:33 AM »

Hi All,

I just pulled my tank and am going to replace it with the standard tank. When I pulled it, I saw this:



Can anyone tell me what this is? Do I have an IS tank and is this the sending sensor that everyone talks about?

I am thinking of selling this tank but don't know much about it.
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Lyle Laun
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Posts: 259


Calgary, Ab


« Reply #1 on: February 08, 2016, 06:25:21 AM »

Cogsman:
Yes, you have the interstate tank

Lyle
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98 Black "Rat Rod" Standard
99 Green/Silver Interstate
Bone
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Posts: 1596


« Reply #2 on: February 08, 2016, 07:17:50 AM »

Be careful that is a sensor.
Your government knows where your tank is at all times.
You might be stopped at border crossings !
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Jess from VA
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No VA


« Reply #3 on: February 08, 2016, 07:27:42 AM »

Why?
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Gideon
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Posts: 462


Indianapolis, IN.


« Reply #4 on: February 08, 2016, 07:30:37 AM »

Why do you want to go with a smaller gas tank?  ???

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But they that wait upon the Lord shall renew their strength; they shall mount up with wings as eagles; they shall run and not be weary; they shall walk, and not faint.  Isaiah 40:31
cogsman
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Posts: 260


Newmarket, Ontario, Canada


« Reply #5 on: February 08, 2016, 07:57:54 AM »

Basically because I am trying to bring the bike as close to stock as possible (other than changing up certain accessories like the handgrips, and go full LED if I can).

Other than that, no reason. I'm also told I can sell the IS tank for a decent amount.

Though frankly, if I could figure out how to add a fuel gauge i'd probably keep it.
« Last Edit: February 08, 2016, 08:27:42 AM by cogsman » Logged
Jess from VA
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« Reply #6 on: February 08, 2016, 08:59:56 AM »

Do yourself a favor and keep the interstate (IS) tank.

It holds more gas and looks better than the smaller one on all valks (fat girls that they are)

It's my understanding you can fairly easily add a sending unit to the knockout in the bottom of the interstate tank, and run it to an aftermarket gauge.  Though I seem to remember John Schmidt reporting that the OE sending unit is reversed from most aftermarket gauges.

And really, you don't even need a gauge.  My interstates reliably go about 220 miles to reserve (supposedly 1.1 gals), in all but extended 80mph long freeway hauls.  Even with a gauge, I reset my trip meter at every fill-up, and tend to look at miles rather than the gauge anyway (since that is what I did for decades with all my earlier bikes before I ever had a gauge).

Another small point.  All seats (including OE) except Mustang, distinguish between IS and std/tourer seat sizes.  Both gas tanks are the same bottom shape, but the IS tank is fatter on top, and so std/tourer seats tend to bend the nose up just a bit when mated with an IS tank.  If you now have an IS specific seat mated to your tank, going to the smaller tank might open up a small gap between the seat nose and the tank.  No big deal, just so you know.

Good IS tanks go for $6-800, but then you'd have to buy a good std tank AND get it painted (you're not going to find a white and purple std tank).

Here's the parts fish for the IS sending unit... if you want one.
http://www.procaliber.com/oemparts/a/hon/5053ea29f870021c54be3e87/fuel-tank
« Last Edit: February 08, 2016, 11:03:55 AM by Jess from VA » Logged
John Schmidt
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a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« Reply #7 on: February 08, 2016, 10:35:57 AM »

Re. a gauge, just get one that's programmable. Autometer makes one but is rather pricey. There are others out there for much less. The sender on these do work in reverse of the general automotive world, when full it registers 0 (zero) ohms, and empty registers 90 ohms. Most gauges work the opposite but that can be overcome with either a programmable gauge or by switching the side the float arm sits on which is easily done. By doing the latter, you can use a normal gauge. But I sure wouldn't go the route of a smaller tank, you gain nothing and lose a lot....especially if you go to sell it later.
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cogsman
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Posts: 260


Newmarket, Ontario, Canada


« Reply #8 on: February 08, 2016, 04:13:19 PM »

Do yourself a favor and keep the interstate (IS) tank.

It holds more gas and looks better than the smaller one on all valks (fat girls that they are)

It's my understanding you can fairly easily add a sending unit to the knockout in the bottom of the interstate tank, and run it to an aftermarket gauge.  Though I seem to remember John Schmidt reporting that the OE sending unit is reversed from most aftermarket gauges.

And really, you don't even need a gauge.  My interstates reliably go about 220 miles to reserve (supposedly 1.1 gals), in all but extended 80mph long freeway hauls.  Even with a gauge, I reset my trip meter at every fill-up, and tend to look at miles rather than the gauge anyway (since that is what I did for decades with all my earlier bikes before I ever had a gauge).

Another small point.  All seats (including OE) except Mustang, distinguish between IS and std/tourer seat sizes.  Both gas tanks are the same bottom shape, but the IS tank is fatter on top, and so std/tourer seats tend to bend the nose up just a bit when mated with an IS tank.  If you now have an IS specific seat mated to your tank, going to the smaller tank might open up a small gap between the seat nose and the tank.  No big deal, just so you know.

Good IS tanks go for $6-800, but then you'd have to buy a good std tank AND get it painted (you're not going to find a white and purple std tank).

Here's the parts fish for the IS sending unit... if you want one.
http://www.procaliber.com/oemparts/a/hon/5053ea29f870021c54be3e87/fuel-tank


Thanks for this jess I'll look into it. BTW I am already in possession of a purple and white standard tank.
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cogsman
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Newmarket, Ontario, Canada


« Reply #9 on: February 08, 2016, 04:15:41 PM »

Is there a way to test that the sending unit actuality works before I spend 200 on an auto meter gauge? Some kind of impedence test?
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Jess from VA
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« Reply #10 on: February 08, 2016, 05:38:17 PM »

Thanks for this jess I'll look into it. BTW I am already in possession of a purple and white standard tank.

Well shut my mouth.  (on never finding one)

Sell that one, or hold onto it in case you ding your IS tank (it won't go down in value in any event). 
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cogsman
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Newmarket, Ontario, Canada


« Reply #11 on: February 08, 2016, 05:41:38 PM »

Jess I think I Like your advice.  Thanks bro
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Jess from VA
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« Reply #12 on: February 08, 2016, 05:57:50 PM »

Welcome.

It probably cost the guy who added the tank a $K or more.  It was worth it.  (Lots of guys on here have added one, and/or a belly tank under the swing-arm)

Of course, if you mostly ride around town or a smaller area (with decent gas availability everywhere), you don't really need a bigger tank.   But anytime you travel, or go where it's a long way between gas stations, then it's nice to have the extra legs of a 7gal tank.   
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98valk
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South Jersey


« Reply #13 on: February 09, 2016, 02:49:30 AM »


[/quote]

Thanks for this jess I'll look into it. BTW I am already in possession of a purple and white standard tank.
[/quote]


that color combo is the rarest of all Valkyries.
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cogsman
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Posts: 260


Newmarket, Ontario, Canada


« Reply #14 on: February 09, 2016, 05:33:08 AM »

So back to a previous question: how do I know the sensor still sends before I spend money on a gauge? Is there some kind of impedence/volt/other test I can do to verify? Are there any moving parts that I need to check inside the tank?
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indybobm
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Franklin, Indiana VRCC # 5258


« Reply #15 on: February 09, 2016, 06:19:03 AM »

I would think that if you connect an ohm meter to the terminal and one of the mounting screws that it would read close to zero ohms when the tank is upside down (the float would be close to the top of the tank). turning the empty tank right side up, the float would be at bottom and would read around 90 ohms. If this does not work, you will have to remove the sending unit to test it.
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John Schmidt
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a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« Reply #16 on: February 09, 2016, 08:28:08 AM »

Can't tell for sure from the picture, but it looks like the wires have been cut off the sender. If you can't reattach them somehow, you might still have to remove the sender to enable you to rewire it. That will test your patience, both in removing and reinstalling it. Keep in mind, the wires from the sender should point toward the rear of the tank when installed correctly. Good luck.
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cogsman
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Posts: 260


Newmarket, Ontario, Canada


« Reply #17 on: February 09, 2016, 10:02:24 AM »

I'm sure the installation or reinstallation is a PITA, but I'm willing to give it a try.

I'm just wondering that since this isn't an IS, there is no fuel sensor to plug the sender into.

Can i just run the wires right to a fuel gauge, or do I need to tap power from somewhere?

If so, then THAT's the part that gives me pause!
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