Desmog info?

[Chevy327]

On several posts I keep seeing people doing a "Desmog."
What does this entail and what does it do?
Last question: why are there 2 intercom cables under my right side cover?  Thanks again in advance. I've got 59,500 miles 01 intersate

[crash1980]

Desmog- http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/desmog.htm

The cables are for an auxiliary power supply.  They are a positive and a negative and they are through your switch so they are only on when the key is on.

[Chevy327]

I am talking about the connection cables to plug in helmet headsets, just like in the fairing and behind seat for passenger. There are 2 of these exact plug in under right side cover.

[crash1980]

I can't help with that one.

[gordonv]

Do you have a CB maybe?

They don't belong there. I would follow them to their source, and verify what they are from.

If you have the 2 in the OEM mounting places, then these are extra. LH drivers fairing. LH fender rail. They do fall off, and get remounted.

[Steel cowboy]

I have the same cable ends one is capped off. There are 2 helmet cables I'm sure you saw them mine is on the rear left side for my passenger.
The desmog kit just eliminates the possibility of a vacumm leak. All but the Petcock vacumm lines are removed including the pair valve and reed valves plus the air pipes that go to the exhaust ports. You can purchase the "shiny desmog kit" from red eye or do it your self. There is no retuning or other work needed after the desmog. I did it because I had the carb's out.

[john]

 "shiny desmog kit"                        
   pull the trigger       

[biguglyman]

"shiny desmog kit"

+1

Eliminated 90% of my decel popping.

[mustang071965]

If your ride is the interstate. And the two connectors look like the ones for your helmet but bigger. One is for the connection for a cb. The other is for connection to a

Code:

CD player

[hubcapsc]

I desmogged mine.

Later I helped Stanley Steamer replace all his vacuum lines.

Not having vacuum leaks makes your bike run better, but
you don't have to desmog to get rid of vacuum leaks... do you
think you have any vacuum leaks?

I did it this way:  http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/desmog.htm
you can see what it would entail...

-Mike

[Chevy327]

Thanks everybody for the responses.  I've got more work to do!!

[gordonv]

Last question: why are there 2 intercom cables under my right side cover?  Thanks again in advance. I've got 59,500 miles 01 intersate

Found a nice pic of the radio, shows 2 plugs for the intercom. I very sure that the external ports, drive/passenger, are plugged in via another method.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/97-03-Valkyrie-gl-1500-am-fm-radio-stereo-cb-auxillary-port-/191808092578?fits=Model%3AValkyrie+1500&hash=item2ca8a739a2:g:LiAAAOSwL7VWkq6N&vxp=mtr

[Roidfingers]

If doing the desmog, Could you not just cap or plug the airfeed tubes at the top? Then you still have the shiny chrome. 

[Crackerborn]

If doing the desmog, Could you not just cap or plug the airfeed tubes at the top? Then you still have the shiny chrome. 

That would be called a stealth de-smog and I believe Red-eye still has the kits for that. Or a dab of JB Weld in the ends of those shiny chrome pieces.

[auditray2007]

I just did mine. I made a blanker gasket out of 3mm exhaust gasket for the two ports underneath. Just remove No 1 & no 6 pipes and trace out the size onto the 3mm gasket paper. I then cut out 1mm gaskets paper for the 4 top ports. I simply cut a small 4" square piece layed it over the port hole and used the ball end of a 1/2" drive extension to ream it to a perfect fit which is 14mm, 9/16". I then used fire cement (exh paste) to fill over the 14mm gasket pushed the chrome pipe down into the port hole leaving the o ring in place. The cement will go up into the pipe also. I zip tied 1&3 and 3&5, 6&4 and 4&2 together to hold them steady. 1 & 6 been the pipes from underneath which are held fast so using these as a good foundation to tie the others. This should help to stop any vibration from cracking the cement. This enables the chrome pipes to remain on the bike and a whoppin to be prevented. You can bypass all that by getting the red eye stealth kit but I think the vibration issue is something you will have to address or the o rings will take a battering and that may lead you back to popping down the road. Those pipes were dependant on the reed valve units for support which is no longer there. I have the red eye kit but didn't fit it because of the extra weight at the end of the pipes. If fitting the Red eye kit I would make a bracket to give those 6 pipes a bit of support. There is a vacant 6mm threaded hole right under the right hand 3 pipes but on the left it a bit more of a job to bracket it! Hope this helps.

[auditray2007]

You could also fit core plugs 9/16" if you no longer want the chrome pipes.

[Steve K (IA)]

I just replaced my vac lines this past summer.  I/S bought new in 2000, vac hoses looked like new.  Still pliable and I checked for leaks...none.  That's 16 seasons!  I expect not to have to repeat this process ever again.  Bike is always garaged and when traveling, covered at night.  That's why I believe the vac hoses looked new.

I tore into this because I had a vac leak.  The diaphragm in the petcock was the problem (tear).

No desmog here unless there is a problem with the reed valves. 

As my Dad always said.  "If it's not broke, it doesn't need fixing".   
 

[Hook#3287]

My name is Bill, and I'm a Valkaholic.  It's been 5 years since my last de-smog.

Seriously, I did the stealth job cause I can't seen to take chrome OFF.  Chrome was made to go ON only.  Unless being replaced by bigger or better chrome.

I made caps out of the tubing I removed and JB Weld.  Clamped them on the ends of the chrome tubes, zipped tyed them together under the carbs so they wouldn't move around and have given them no concern since.

Made my own carb plugs out of rubber hose removed, with screws in the ends.

[Roidfingers]

Just did my desmog today. Just used (6) 3/8 vacuum line rubber caps for the pipes and (2) 1/8 vacuum caps for the center carbs on each side where the old vacuum lines to the pair valve attached. Took me about 4 hours with a few breaks. Replaced my fuel lines and resealed around tubes that go from airbox to intakes. Pulled the junction box for the crankcase hoses and cleaned it all up too. Did the zip tie trick and airbox fell right in. Bike cranked right up and ran good so far. Just around the neighborhood. Haven't checked at high rpm yet. Hope this is it for a while going under the airbox.   

[Fazer]

  Here is what I took out using the desmog info in the shop talk section.  Not that difficult after seeing what has to be done.  I got my freeze plugs and vacuum hose on line.  I did have to drop the left side exhaust to get the bottom air valve thingy off.  That was more work than any other part of the operation, but at least now I know what it takes to remove them.

While I had the airbox out, I went ahead in installed the Dan Marc electric fuel shut off so even though I am still using the stock petcock, it will be easy to replace with the Pingel when the time comes.  I too used the zip tie method of re-installing the airbox, and it was a piece of cake.