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Author Topic: Help setting or adjusting throttle cables at carburetors  (Read 1012 times)
mrbug
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Posts: 22

Tennessee


« on: March 15, 2016, 03:29:14 PM »

Rebuilt fuel rail and now need help setting adjusting the throttle cables.  The throttle will not return, it stays wide open.  Does anyone have or know of a tutorial on how to adjust the cables at the carburetors?  Or does anyone have advise on where to start and how?
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Hook#3287
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Posts: 6448


Brimfield, Ma


« Reply #1 on: March 15, 2016, 03:55:13 PM »

I just did one last week end but heck if I can write down the procedure.
 
I'll give it a shot

Once you have all four ends attached, take most of the  slack out at the "A" cable at the carb end.  The "A" cable is the one that opens the carbs.

Take the rest out at the "A" cable at the grip end.

You should leave a small amount of slack, about 1/4 inch.

Tighten down all lock nuts.

Most times when the throttle sticks, it's because the grip slide area is dirty.


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mrbug
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Posts: 22

Tennessee


« Reply #2 on: March 15, 2016, 04:06:28 PM »

I can get the slack out of the cable but I can't get it to return with the cables attached.  If I take both cables off the carbs return own their own.  It is quite maddening. tickedoff
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Hook#3287
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Brimfield, Ma


« Reply #3 on: March 15, 2016, 04:17:01 PM »

So it's not a carb issue, which is usually the case.

Check your grip assembly, make sure it's clean and turning free.  Check your cables to see they  move freely. Check your cable positions making sure you're hooking "A" to the pull and "B" to the return. Make sure the barrel ends of the cables are positioned correctly in their holders.
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mrbug
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Posts: 22

Tennessee


« Reply #4 on: March 15, 2016, 04:22:51 PM »

I did not take anything loose from the handlebar side.  It was working just fine before I removed the carburetors.  What ever is going on has to be on the carb end.
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Hook#3287
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Brimfield, Ma


« Reply #5 on: March 15, 2016, 04:28:55 PM »

If the cables are moving freely when not attached to the carbs and the carbs are springing back into place when not attached to the cables, the problem is in the way your hooking the cables up.
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mrbug
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Posts: 22

Tennessee


« Reply #6 on: March 15, 2016, 06:23:46 PM »

I found the problem.  I can't explain why but it ended up being the throttle lock. tickedoff  I adjusted it and now the carbs are opening and closing as they should.  Hopefully now I won't have any gas or coolant leaks! Cheesy. Thanks for the help!
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John Schmidt
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Posts: 15223


a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« Reply #7 on: March 17, 2016, 10:41:09 AM »

And for general knowledge for anyone next time you have to take the cables loose, do what I've done. With some spray paint(or fingernail polish), spray some paint on a scrap of paper and use an artist brush to paint a small dab of one color(preferably bright) on the cable end at the carb, the bracket it goes in and on the corresponding spot on the carb actuator. That way when you have to reinstall the carbs, you never have to second guess which cable goes where. Granted, it can easily be figured out just by watching the action of the cables when you move the grip. This little step removes the question.

So, you sit there on you little scooter stool and see a bright orange dab on the cable end with the nuts and a matching color on the bracket that it bolts into, as well as the corresponding location on the actuator. AHA you say....now which one goes on first, the push or pull. Easy, the one in back first unless you have 14" fingers the size of a 3 yr. old. Plus I often will use a dab of white-out used in typing to mark approx. where the nuts were before I remove the cables. Just don't put it on the side of the nut where when loosened, the nut will simply remove your well intentioned mark.  Wink

Hope this tidbit helps a carb newbie as well as some of us old farts with fading memories.  Grin
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dconstruct55
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Posts: 126

Phoenix AZ.


« Reply #8 on: March 17, 2016, 02:29:10 PM »

Excellent advice John! I always like the fool proof methods. Beautiful Scoot !
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Bagger John - #3785
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Posts: 1952



« Reply #9 on: March 18, 2016, 05:37:18 AM »

We just fixed Pais's bike last night. Same symptoms. Pull cable was being installed w/o required slack and while it returned fine with just the pull cable attached, once you installed the push cable things bound up.

Running the pull cable adjuster waaayyy down then slowly bringing it back up until the right amount of slack was felt at the grip did the trick.  cooldude
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