Oil Change Question

[TallRider]

Just changed oil for second time. Followed manual for first and loosened front engine cover to get at oil filter. This time I looked at filter and said wtf. Stuck my filter wrench and ratchet over end of filter screwed it of and put new one back on. Plenty of room cleared cover using Honda filter socket with wrench no problem. Did Honda change some front cover designs and modify for better clearance. First filter was OEM from Honda this filter I bought at local I dependant bike shop in town. Filters were identical OEM said Honda this one hand Mr name all other print and markings were identical. Looks like same Co made both filters. All filters factory to last were identical. Everyone posting about filter replacement mentions loosening from cover. Just wondering

[CajunRider]

Not 100% sure on this, but I don't think the cover was re-designed or anything. 

I think removing the cover is included in the directions simply to make sure you have plenty of room to navigate the new filter on properly (and not cross thread it or something similar). 

[dans2014]

  While my Honda is under warranty I'm using Honda brand oem filters for peace of mind. There are big differences in filter quality. With an unmarked one, who knows. There is a great article on this forum about that very subject

[hubcapsc]

[bscrive]

I am using the Purolator 14610 filter on mine.  The longer filter gives better cleaning, and is about 1/3 the Honda price.  I also have the Dimple magnetic drain plug.  Between the two, I doubt any metal is getting through. 

Check this out:  http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/FilterXRef.html

[Robert]

I too use the Purolator and have never removed the front cover to change oil. I wouldn't say that there is plenty of room but enough to clear the filter and remove it.

[Kidd]

When is it time to replace oil?
I have  1900 miles on her so far

[AdrianR]

When is it time to replace oil?
I have  1900 miles on her so far

Although the manual says 4K, I would do it now.  I replaced the oil 3X in 2K...Did that with my last bike as well.  Total piece of mind and total engine protection...especially when new and breaking in..

[goldstar903]

Oil is cheap! 

[hubcapsc]

Oil is cheap! 

Oil is expensive...   



-Mike

[TallRider]

had noticed on filter replacement on the older Valks that were being used were longer. Thought the new 1832 was a slightly different filter. As all I have used were identical to the original facrtory one. Thanks

[hubcapsc]

had noticed on filter replacement on the older Valks that were being used were longer. Thought the new 1832 was a slightly different filter. As all I have used were identical to the original facrtory one. Thanks

As I wanted to use the Honda one, I hunted all around trying to find the
"right" one... as best as I can tell the Honda one that is good for the old
Valkyrie is also good for the new one... that's what I used...



-Mike

[goldstar903]

Oil is cheap! 

Oil is expensive...   



-Mike

Mike, how do you figure that?

[Robert]

Same OEM filter, same Purolator filters, my first change was at 1500 then two more at 1200 intervals. All with synthetic oil and the OEM oil does have a break in solution in it. Alot of zinc particles came out and I thought I had a problem at first when I saw the shimmer of the OEM oil that came out of the bike. I doubt there is much to worry about I know the 1500 you could almost put vegatable oil in and be ok. I don't think these are much different.

Honda consolidated alot of filters into a few numbers not to long ago.

 I use the Redline 10w40 with the Purolator filter and will do the oil changes at 7k.

[goldstar903]

Same OEM filter, same Purolator filters, my first change was at 1500 then two more at 1200 intervals. All with synthetic oil and the OEM oil does have a break in solution in it. Alot of zinc particles came out and I thought I had a problem at first when I saw the shimmer of the OEM oil that came out of the bike. I doubt there is much to worry about I know the 1500 you could almost put vegatable oil in and be ok. I don't think these are much different.

Honda consolidated alot of filters into a few numbers not to long ago.

 I use the Redline 10w40 with the Purolator filter and will do the oil changes at 7k.

Robert, it's funny that you mentioned vegetable oil. I was going to suggest the that if somebody wanted cheap oil they could head down to their local McDonald's and get some used french fry oil. 

[Robert]

Same OEM filter, same Purolator filters, my first change was at 1500 then two more at 1200 intervals. All with synthetic oil and the OEM oil does have a break in solution in it. Alot of zinc particles came out and I thought I had a problem at first when I saw the shimmer of the OEM oil that came out of the bike. I doubt there is much to worry about I know the 1500 you could almost put vegatable oil in and be ok. I don't think these are much different.

Honda consolidated alot of filters into a few numbers not to long ago.

 I use the Redline 10w40 with the Purolator filter and will do the oil changes at 7k.

 
Robert, it's funny that you mentioned vegetable oil. I was going to suggest the that if somebody wanted cheap oil they could head down to their local McDonald's and get some used french fry oil.  

There is one serious problem with that

 The smell will make you hungry and you smell like a french fry going down the street.

[hubcapsc]

Oil is cheap! 

Oil is expensive...   



-Mike

Mike, how do you figure that?

That silly stuff in my picture cost like $10 a bottle.

More to the point, our motors would probably run 300,000 miles
if you used reprocessed oil from Big Lots... I can't see changing
it out before the manual says to.

-Mike

[dinosnake]

Oil is cheap! 

Oil is expensive...   



-Mike

Mike, how do you figure that?

That silly stuff in my picture cost like $10 a bottle.

More to the point, our motors would probably run 300,000 miles
if you used reprocessed oil from Big Lots... I can't see changing
it out before the manual says to.

-Mike

Well, there's a big debate about that. In prior times oil changes were recommended based solely on performance; in modern times oil change intervals also take into account economics and social benefits.  The big Toyota oil sludging case seemed to draw a lot of attention the fact that Toyota recommended extended intervals to lower quotable costs of operation, which many people say backfired. 

For cars I have owned nothing but turbos since 1987.  On a turbo, oil care is a must: a pre-turnoff cooldown and frequent changes with correct quality oils is essential.  All my turbos had over 200,000 miles, all with their original turbos and never an oil-related failure.  I got in the habit of 3,000.mile oil changes and I have no problem spending a bit extra to keep that routine up; I am currently using Shell Rotella T6 and the cost is much more reasonable that the Mobil or other brands.

[goldstar903]

Same OEM filter, same Purolator filters, my first change was at 1500 then two more at 1200 intervals. All with synthetic oil and the OEM oil does have a break in solution in it. Alot of zinc particles came out and I thought I had a problem at first when I saw the shimmer of the OEM oil that came out of the bike. I doubt there is much to worry about I know the 1500 you could almost put vegatable oil in and be ok. I don't think these are much different.

Honda consolidated alot of filters into a few numbers not to long ago.

 I use the Redline 10w40 with the Purolator filter and will do the oil changes at 7k.

 
Robert, it's funny that you mentioned vegetable oil. I was going to suggest the that if somebody wanted cheap oil they could head down to their local McDonald's and get some used french fry oil.  

There is one serious problem with that

 The smell will make you hungry and you smell like a french fry going down the street.

Got ketchup? 

[dans2014]

  I'm going to start using the Shell Rotella T-6 synthetic 5-40w in all my toys. It is $19.00 a gallon at Wally world on line and really looks good in the tests.

[goldstar903]

I'm going to start using the Shell Rotella T-6 synthetic 5-40w in all my toys. It is $19.00 a gallon at Wally world on line and really looks good in the tests.

That works! 

[Robert]

Oil is cheap! 

Oil is expensive...   



-Mike

Mike, how do you figure that?

That silly stuff in my picture cost like $10 a bottle.

More to the point, our motors would probably run 300,000 miles
if you used reprocessed oil from Big Lots... I can't see changing
it out before the manual says to.

-Mike

Mercedes and BMW also had some problems with 12 to 14k oil changes. But with the new synthetic oils 7 to 8k is very doable even with a turbo. I do have experience with these and have not seen that many turbo replacements on cars like they used to. The inside of the engines that go the 7 to 8 have been very clean and through my own experience have found that synthetic seems to hold to that mileage very well. I too am pretty anal when it comes to my own vehicles and have had to push the mentality of changing oil at 3k. The only one I change more is my truck that never really gets longer runs but is constant off on stop go.

The dino oil used to burn and the bearings would coke up but with the new oils they don't burn and don't leave the deposits at the lower temps so the turbos have actually lived a lot longer.

What I find its is while dino oil used to break down sooner, the deposits in the oil did not build up like the newer synthetics. So you could say  that the newer oils get drained not because of break down but because of deposit accumulation in the oil. That is how the new ratings in my opinion get fudged. Yes the oil is ok at 12k but the modern filtering systems like on trucks are not present on cars so all the deposits don't get filtered out.

Had a noise in a BMW X5 the other day it was a squealing sound turned out it was the oil going past a clogged filter. Needless to say the inside of the engine was a mess but still ran good.

[TallRider]

The OEM filter pictured above and the one I purchased from local bike shop are identical. If I set them side by side no one could pick the Honda filter other than by luck. The stamping, color, print, wording and placement of printing identical. Way the print looks came from same stamping. The only diff is Honda VS MFR name. Honda does not make the filter. Someone makes filter for them and I suspect it is this mfr. I paid 8 bucks for it. I didn't go to Honda because of time restraints that day. I agree one needs to be carefull about getting caught up in price versus quality or right item. But first oil change cost me almost 80 bucks from Honda. This one under 40. Most bikes do not have pressure guages so one has to be careful about these things. To restrictive a filter could cause serious problems as one pointed out about filters having different applications but may look alike. just like spark plugs. They all look alike generaly but heat ranges etc are different.

[Psycho Steve]

Just changed my oil with Mobil 1 and Honda filter. Did not remove the lower cowl. Used a filter wrench and no problems.