Scattered Clutch?

[F6Ghostrider VRCC #32501]

I have a 98 Tourer with 165, 500 miles. I religiously complete routine maintenance. Oil, filter, brake, clutch and final drive fluids. In 09, I thought I lost the clutch, but it turned out to be the pinion cup and drive shaft. I replaced those items and have since completed routine maintenance on those items every other back tire change. I even replace all three O-Rings with every drive shaft service. I have a service manual I use to complete such tasks.
Recently, I noticed minor clutch slippage. I checked my manual and immediately completed an oil/filter change with negative results for curing the slipping clutch. I replaced the front & back brake fluids, and while there, replaced the clutch fluid. No change in slipping. The lever became occasionally hard to pull, then shifting between gears became nearly impossible.
Last week, while slowing and preparing to downshift, I pulled the lever and it sounded like someone poured Viking table ware into my engine case. I was eventually able to slow down and shift into a low gear. As I pulled into my garage, gingerly braking, clutching, throttling and navigating between my wife's car and the roses, the engine almost died. Then, the Dragon refused to die and roared back to life, surging forward just as I rolled onto the slick cement floor. Yep, she snow-plowed and pitched me off the right side and she went silent. 
So, I've been pouring back through my service manual regarding clutch replacement. The book says the engine does not need to come out. Who has experience with this and what is the best plan for my attack?
Since I thought the engine needed to come out, I was going to replace all the fuel lines
(I have a belly tank and some of the lines are a bit difficult to get to and I have Shrek hands.), vacuum lines, cooling system o-rings, intake o-rings and something else that doesn't immediately come to mind.
I briefly peeked at the area where the clutch is accessed for service, and just sitting there it looks impossible to work on.
My apologies for the Readers Digest version. I'm incapable of telling short stories. 

[old2soon]

P M attic rat. RIDE SAFE.

[Steve K (IA)]

Trailer it to the Phoenix area where Big BF is if you can't or don't want to tackle it yourself.

[Valker]

There are youtube videos on how to do this. It sounds like the rivets sheared on the damper plate. This will quickly cause horrendous white smoke out of the pipes. Local dealer charged my friend $400 to do this job. BigBF in PHX is very good. Many folks have done this at home and written it up. Search for those stories.

[98valk]

only for the GL1200 does the engine have to be moved to remove/replace the clutch.

do not know about the GL1800.

search many threads on how to do. just replace dampener plate and clutch plates on either side which will have some damage from the rivets. these clutch plates are good for 300-400k miles before they hit the wear spec requiring replacement.

[The emperor has no clothes]

There are youtube videos on how to do this. It sounds like the rivets sheared on the damper plate. This will quickly cause horrendous white smoke out of the pipes. Local dealer charged my friend $400 to do this job. BigBF in PHX is very good. Many folks have done this at home and written it up. Search for those stories.

I'm not understanding what causes the white smoke ?

[gordonv]

I would never recommend taking the engine out, but from reading your story I would this time.

I feel with what you want to do extra, it would be easier.

But like already suggested, since your closes to BF, if you don't want to tackle it yourself, a nice drive over to AZ isn't far for you.

Personally, do it yourself. Do the search and the reading. Get the deep sockets first. Maybe a second pair of hands, throw a work party. I always hate working alone.

[F6Ghostrider VRCC #32501]

Thanks to all for responding. I guess I'm that guy, who if he has to go in balls deep, I'd rather go back with an entirely new clutch to ensure there are no issues. Direct Line is saying 9 bills just for the clutch. OUCH!  Plus the other things I wanna/need to do. Bike Bandit looks very promising though. I guess I'll start You Tubing next week and get some screen time before I start gutting my Dragon. Although sheared rivets does sound way more promising than the alternative.

Thanks Gentlemen.   

[Valker]

There are youtube videos on how to do this. It sounds like the rivets sheared on the damper plate. This will quickly cause horrendous white smoke out of the pipes. Local dealer charged my friend $400 to do this job. BigBF in PHX is very good. Many folks have done this at home and written it up. Search for those stories.

I'm not understanding what causes the white smoke ?

The white smoke (if this is the issue) is caused by the sheared rivets plugging the oil screen and causing oil to go into the intake tract. Burned and out the pipes.
This is OEM clutch. No where near $900. Barnett clutches would be even cheaper. Look around.
http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Honda/Motorcycle/1998/GL1500CT+A/CLUTCH/parts.html

[Red Diamond]

It would be very helpful to have access to a lift table. Do it yourself if you have a table, lying on your back won't cut it.
1) if the clutch basket is not damaged, don't remove it, it would be helpful to have an extra basket to stack the clutches and plates.
2) impact wrench; torque wrench.
3) Service manual to follow procedure.
4) There is more but if you are giving thought to doing it yourself, then you probably have and know everything else. Good luck, work safely.

[Valker]

Thanks to all for responding. I guess I'm that guy, who if he has to go in balls deep, I'd rather go back with an entirely new clutch to ensure there are no issues. Direct Line is saying 9 bills just for the clutch. OUCH!  Plus the other things I wanna/need to do. Bike Bandit looks very promising though. I guess I'll start You Tubing next week and get some screen time before I start gutting my Dragon. Although sheared rivets does sound way more promising than the alternative.

Thanks Gentlemen.   

If the white smoke is happening (like a WWII destroyer) it's the clutch rivets. If it jumps when you put it in gear while idleing, rivets. Someone who has done a replacement will need to tell you exactly which parts you should replace. Mine is still original (only 143,000).

[98valk]

Thanks to all for responding. I guess I'm that guy, who if he has to go in balls deep, I'd rather go back with an entirely new clutch to ensure there are no issues. Direct Line is saying 9 bills just for the clutch. OUCH!  Plus the other things I wanna/need to do. Bike Bandit looks very promising though. I guess I'll start You Tubing next week and get some screen time before I start gutting my Dragon. Although sheared rivets does sound way more promising than the alternative.

Thanks Gentlemen.   

u don't need the metal plates or a clutch basket which is a major cost. perfect clutch baskets just in case it got damaged most likely not, are available on ebay used cheap. GL1500 goldwing prices will be cheaper. '97 up GW uses same clutch plates as the valkyrie. barretts are same material as Honda's, go with OEM for quality control.
I picked up a complete assembly off ebay for $50. had 130k on it all plates measured .001 less then new. check my post for actual. the OEM clutch plates do not wear out remember honda warranted these bikes for 7 yrs, the clutch is very over built.

[Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008]

Lost my clutch at 160K. it was the damper plate. Reused everything except the friction dics. Took about 4hrs to repair working on the floor. A good impact wrench and a spare clutch basket to stack the clutches on the work bench will make it much easier.  Also homemade snap ring removing press is a must. The remover is shown in the shoptalk section I believe.

[F6Ghostrider VRCC #32501]

So I've spent a few hours the last two days after work just removing chrome. Man that center cover was NOT the funnest thing I've ever done.  Now I'm down to where I can see engine. My delimma now is that I have a belly tank and I am curious who has done a clutch rebuild and has a belly tank? I ask because I'm not sure if I can get my Shreck hands in there to remove bolts, or does the belly tank need to come out? Since the side stand is out, I think there's maybe two other bolts holding it in. Bad news is it has 3.5 gallons of go juice in it.

Thanks fellas.

[F6Ghostrider VRCC #32501]

I forgot to ask a minit ago. I found where I don't need to drain the clutch fluid, only cable tie the lever back to the grip. I'm only able to get the lever pulled half way back.  How much of a problem will that give me when I remove the slave cylinder?

[Ramie]

I forgot to ask a minit ago. I found where I don't need to drain the clutch fluid, only cable tie the lever back to the grip. I'm only able to get the lever pulled half way back.  How much of a problem will that give me when I remove the slave cylinder?

Are you sure the bushing in your lever hasn't gone bad.  I had this happen to my I/S, could barely pull in the clutch lever ended up being a bad bushing in the lever.

[F6Ghostrider VRCC #32501]

Good thinking. But no.  I recently replaced the lever with new OEM parts.
It has to be the pressure plate not letting things move. I guess. I'm not real savvy on exactly how clutches work. I just know that mine doesn't.

Thanks.

Jeff.

[F6Ghostrider VRCC #32501]

OK. So I got the clutch out, left the basket. No damage at all. Everyone was right in that the rivets let go.  I have scouring the previous posts looking for one where someone made a tool to compress the clutch spring.  I've gone this far, I can finish the job.  I just need the last bit of guidance in getting the spring compressed enough to get the snap ring out. 

Thanks in advance for all of your help.

Jeff

[gordonv]

I haven't looked yet, but I thought it was 2 flat bars, threaded rode between the, and the nuts to tighten the two bars together. Sandwiches the pack, compresses the spring. Just have the threaded rod long enough to account for the expansion of the pack.

[98valk]

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,30038.0.html

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,20870.0.html

[F6Ghostrider VRCC #32501]

SWEET!
That was the post I was hunting for!
Thanks Gordonv!
I have been running this through my head for a few days now.  The only difference is my idea is more elaborate.  Yours is better, cuz I probably have most of the items on hand!

Gotta go!

Thanks,

Jeff.

[F6Ghostrider VRCC #32501]

Please accept my apologies 98 Valk AKA CA. You found the post put up by Gordonv. Just too excited. 

[98valk]

Please accept my apologies 98 Valk AKA CA. You found the post put up by Gordonv. Just too excited. 

The Lady makes all of us very excited. 

how ever u do it, make sure u leave room to get to the snap ring for removal and install.

[DK]

When reinstalling the belly tank, loosely attach the "ears" of the tall to the exhaust brackets so as to allow them to be a hinge point; attach the nuts (17 mm, I think) to the box end of a wrench with good duct tape, leaving the bottom of the nut open; insert the away front tank bolt thru the crossmember and then position the nut above the bolt by passing the wrench behind the alternator & loosely thread it onto the bolt by turning the bolt from underneath; do not tighten.

Repeat the procedure for the other bole & tighten everything up.

Dan

[F6Ghostrider VRCC #32501]

Thanks. Good info.
So I checked the service manual regarding installing the clutch cover gasket. Unless I missed something, I didn't see anything about using gasket adhesive.

Is it just plug and play? I'm not a fan of seepage or drips.

Jeff.

[Blackduck]

Permatex #3
Great sealant and you can usually get them apart again without destroying the gasket.
Isopropyl alcohol to clean up any excess sealant on the outside when finishing up
Cheers Steve

[F6Ghostrider VRCC #32501]

Thanks Steve.
I appreciate your feedback.  Good to know.
I'm itchin to get back on the road. Just can't buy parts till payday.

[98valk]

I used the Permatex form-a-gasket. just make sure it's the flexible non-hardening one. most stores sell both.