Maintance on the Valk

[Safety Steve]

I'm getting ready to put on new rear tire, and doing the rear wheel service, now my mechanic told me that he likes to use Anti Seize copper kind because it is very high heat resident.  Has anyone used this I do recall someone on the board saying that they do.

Also I have notice a vibration when I accelerate and decelerate, when I reach my speed she stops bussing and is smooth as glass, so as I read, it almost like going on WebMD the more I read the more I thing something is wrong, I talk myself into a problem that may not be one, lol, but I know when I first got the bike about 2 1/2 years ago It was so smooth, so I think it may be ether the u-Joint or the Dampers, does anyone have any ideas, my bike is a 1997 standard and when I got her she had 32,000 miles on her, now she has 56,000 miles, I know that is not many miles but she is almost old enough to drink so I'm thinking that some of her parts could be just old.
I'm also going to have the timing belts changed out.

Thank you all for any and all help.

Steve

[sandy]

The vibration is in the drive line. When you pull the wheel, check the shaft, pinion and U joint.

Most professional shops (and me) use Bel Ray waterproof grease. 153K with no problems.

[98valk]

if your talking the splines? I do, a very thin coat then, TS-moly paste or grease as required.

the first time I changed my rear tire, I'm the org owner, I saw what looked like some rust on the splines. using an eyepiece I could see it was cooper anti-seize (CAS) and not rust. CAS is fantastic in preventing galling of metal sliding parts esp for new metal parts mating together.
Since now the splines are broken in at 45k miles, the next tire change I most likely will only use the moly paste/grease, since the moly will plate the metal and the CAS might be preventing that.

Just using only CAS is not a good idea.

[gordonv]

I remember it being said CAS is good for the spark plugs, because of the dissimilar metal.

[Jess from VA]

I remember it being said CAS is good for the spark plugs, because of the dissimilar metal.

I've been doing that all my life, and on all my assembly bolts, but last year someone said silver antiseize was better than copper on plugs.  Can't remember why.  There's also nickel based antiseize.

I have also read that bike manufacturers recommend bike plug threads should not be coated at all, that it affects torque settings enough to make a 7 heat range turn into an 8... (sure, but who uses a torque wrench on plugs?) (I snug mine just enough to flatten the gaskets, not torque them)

And I've also read dissimilar metals (aluminum and steel) and antiseize can combine to create small voltage, like a battery.

Also coated is the wrong word, just a dab is all you should use.

It's all so confusing.