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Author Topic: Oil drain crush washer  (Read 1555 times)
gordonv
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VRCC # 31419

Richmond BC


« on: April 15, 2016, 08:42:36 PM »

I'm using my last Honda crush washer tomorrow. 14mm x 22 mm (?) silver color.

I was looking, and found on amazon some same sized copper ones, for something like $6 and free shipping, for 50 ea. Price is great. I think before my Honda MC, all I had ever used was copper crush washers for things like the fuel and hydraulic lines in my cars.

Is there any reason I shouldn't buy these? A lot cheaper than $3 each.

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1999 Black with custom paint IS

Hef
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Posts: 708

Opdyke, IL 62872


« Reply #1 on: April 15, 2016, 09:21:44 PM »

Really???? You been paying $3.00 each for a crush washer!
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Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008
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Posts: 3025

Huffman, Texas close to Houston


« Reply #2 on: April 15, 2016, 09:31:50 PM »

197 thousand miles and I've never changed a crush washer on my 2000 I/S.
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big poppa pump
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San Antonio, TX


« Reply #3 on: April 15, 2016, 09:56:36 PM »

I change my crush washer every other oil change. I bought 50 of them at the local honda car dealership for 25 cents a piece.
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1998 Valkyrie Hot Rod

Bighead
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Madison Alabama


« Reply #4 on: April 16, 2016, 12:06:18 AM »

197 thousand miles and I've never changed a crush washer on my 2000 I/S.
cooldude me neither and never leaked a drop.
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1999 Interstate (sold)
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Chrisj CMA
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Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #5 on: April 16, 2016, 05:09:05 AM »

The thing is, if you crush the dang thing, then you'd better change it.  Just snug it real good and the washer won't crush and it's good for a long time
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Paladin528
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Greater Toronto Area Ontario Canada


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« Reply #6 on: April 16, 2016, 04:33:43 PM »

My local honda dealer includes them with the filter for free.
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Chrisj CMA
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Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #7 on: April 16, 2016, 06:16:57 PM »

My local honda dealer includes them with the filter for free.

Lol!  No it's not free when you pay 15 bucks for a 7 or 8 dollar filter and then they toss in a 1 dollar item and pocket the rest.
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dconstruct55
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Phoenix AZ.


« Reply #8 on: April 16, 2016, 08:39:36 PM »

Shoptalk recommends changing crush washer every other time, for .25 why not. Oil plug torqued to 25 ft lb.
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DK
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Little Rock


« Reply #9 on: April 16, 2016, 09:32:08 PM »

This is a good time to remember the recent thread re:  crack in crankcase from over tightened drain plug.

I've had to go back & re-tighten a drain plug on occasion when reusing a crush washer. After following that thread I've laid in a lifetime supply of washers.
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Chrisj CMA
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Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #10 on: April 17, 2016, 05:03:54 AM »

Quote from: dconstruct55 link=topic=86214.msg847994#msg847994 om onedate=1460864376
Shoptalk recommends changing crush washer every other time, for .25 why not. Oil plug torqued to 25 ft lb.

I have never in 40 years of bike wrenching put a torque wrench on a drain bolt.  Never had a drop leak from one.  I would estimate I snug them to 12 to 15 or so ft lbs
« Last Edit: April 17, 2016, 05:06:09 AM by Chrisj CMA » Logged
h13man
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To everything there is an exception.

Indiana NW Central Flatlands


« Reply #11 on: April 17, 2016, 07:47:52 AM »

Go to Advance or Auto Zone and purchase a copper washer. They last forever and much superior to the aluminium "crush" washer from Honda. Aluminium is good IMO for one time use but I have used them more than once until I found the copper variety locally. Copper is used for sealing washers exclusively in most industrial applications.
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dconstruct55
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Phoenix AZ.


« Reply #12 on: April 17, 2016, 09:44:30 AM »

When I responded I was thinking like DK, the thread about cracked crank case got a lot of attention, so I just passed on recommendation from shop talk. I have never torqued an oil plug, but after that article and the ensuing repair ideas, I may reconsider....
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gordonv
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VRCC # 31419

Richmond BC


« Reply #13 on: April 17, 2016, 11:02:42 AM »

I too only snug the drain plug/washer, look for oil leakage after start up, and tighten a little if needed.

I just changed the oil yesterday, reused the same aluminum washer, snugged, and no leakage. Will check again today.

I was also thinking about using a o-ring instead. I have a box of mixed O-rings from Princess Auto (HF), and felt this would be a little nicer to use instead of buying more washers.

As for copper, that was why I mentioned in all other applications on my cars, copper was used instead.
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1999 Black with custom paint IS

..
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Maggie Valley, NC


« Reply #14 on: April 17, 2016, 03:32:52 PM »

197 thousand miles and I've never changed a crush washer on my 2000 I/S.
cooldude me neither and never leaked a drop.

+1
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DK
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Little Rock


« Reply #15 on: April 17, 2016, 04:40:09 PM »

Some of the filters I use include an aluminum crush washer. I think this is the case with Honda filters, although I'm not sure.
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Red Diamond
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Beaumont, Texas


« Reply #16 on: April 17, 2016, 06:27:28 PM »

Never had a crush washer with any filter I have installed. As to the drain plug, wrap the washer with Teflon tape, install it and have never checked for a leak.
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pancho
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Bonanza Arkansas


« Reply #17 on: April 17, 2016, 06:28:50 PM »

I too only snug the drain plug/washer, look for oil leakage after start up, and tighten a little if needed.

I just changed the oil yesterday, reused the same aluminum washer, snugged, and no leakage. Will check again today.

I was also thinking about using a o-ring instead. I have a box of mixed O-rings from Princess Auto (HF), and felt this would be a little nicer to use instead of buying more washers.

As for copper, that was why I mentioned in all other applications on my cars, copper was used instead.

I think you will find that this is the wrong application for an O-ring gordonv, I have tried them for similar use, and if they are only tightened enough to do the job properly, they do give enough support to hold the bolt tight, if you crush them in so you have enough bolt contact to maintain a given torque of the bolt, they tear up and don't work properly,,, a sealing washer is the way to go, at least that has been my experience.

A copper washer is harder that an aluminum washer, so to get the same sealing of surfaces, it takes more torque on the bolt than with an aluminum washer. Although copper is malleable and seals great, and is used on a lot of equipment, on our aluminum cases, aluminum may be a better choice.  As was mentioned... that recent post with the cracked case....  whew  ....  

I use torque wrenches a lot on the Valk, never did on the Harley, but don't use one on the oil drain,,, just tight enough.
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