dpcarson
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« on: April 16, 2016, 05:19:13 AM » |
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Hey guys. 2000 IS is a bugger to start. Fires up initially and then dies within a couple seconds. If I am delicate enough I can work the throttle to keep it fired up until it warms up. Better luck in warmer weather. If I choke it it fires up for a couple seconds and then dies out also. I went in last week and adjusted all mixtures screws to 2..25 turns. Checked vacuum caps also. She has been de-smogged.
On a note, after a couple attempts to start, if it does not run, then I have to walk away from it for about 30 minutes and then come back and usually have better luck. If it has been run within the last 24 hours it is pretty easy to start. But if it has sat for more than three or four days, it is much more difficult to start.
Any ideas on where to start?
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"""""""""""""""""""""""""""""" In war, there are no unwounded soldiers. 
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Pete
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« Reply #1 on: April 16, 2016, 05:31:08 AM » |
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Check the spark plugs if ok then: Clean the carbs and replace the manifold O-rings
If spark plugs show rich check the air cleaner for air flow stoppage and gas tank petcock for proper function.
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crash1980
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« Reply #2 on: April 16, 2016, 05:39:05 AM » |
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Ride it every day... 
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #3 on: April 16, 2016, 05:39:21 AM » |
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The first time I changed timing belts, I got one of them one tooth off. Until I discovered the goof and corrected it, mine was hard to start too.
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dpcarson
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« Reply #4 on: April 16, 2016, 06:17:18 AM » |
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Pete. All of those things are new. I just pulled the engine on this last year and went through the carbs, new filter, new petcock, new rings and gaskets everywhere. I bought it hydrolocked with busted starter gear and pulled the engine to replace that. pretty much replaced everything while going back together.
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"""""""""""""""""""""""""""""" In war, there are no unwounded soldiers. 
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longrider
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« Reply #5 on: April 16, 2016, 06:31:11 AM » |
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Pull the line off #6 that feeds the petcock and test to make sure it holds vacuum. I have a feeling it's not getting fuel. Do you shut the fuel off each time you stop for the day?
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signart
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« Reply #6 on: April 16, 2016, 06:36:43 AM » |
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Something quick n easy, try starting with tank lid open.
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dpcarson
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« Reply #7 on: April 16, 2016, 07:53:14 AM » |
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Excellent. Thanks Will try that as soon as I get home from work.
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"""""""""""""""""""""""""""""" In war, there are no unwounded soldiers. 
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MarkT
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Posts: 5196
VRCC #437 "Form follows Function"
Colorado Front Range - elevation 2.005 km
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« Reply #8 on: April 16, 2016, 12:28:45 PM » |
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Adjusted valves lately? If some are too tight you will get behavior like you mentioned. Also, a weak battery will contribute to starting problems like this. In the meantime start it with choke and get it to spin up immediately hold the rpms over 2000 for 30 sec or so then it should stay running. I had the same problems with Deerslayer. A valve adjustment cured it. Always started easier with a ffesh battery.
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dpcarson
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« Reply #9 on: April 16, 2016, 12:56:40 PM » |
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Thanks Mark. Have a fresh battery on it and keep it plugged to a tender. Have not checked the valves. Only have 40k miles on it so didn't figure valves would be likely but definitely worth checking. thanks
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"""""""""""""""""""""""""""""" In war, there are no unwounded soldiers. 
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gordonv
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Posts: 5762
VRCC # 31419
Richmond BC
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« Reply #10 on: April 16, 2016, 04:04:04 PM » |
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I know you've been around, but you didn't say, you do know with the chock you have to turn it on till it doesn't want to move, and then force it about another 1/2".
After starting, and it doesn't rev high rpm, then I don't think the chock is on.
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1999 Black with custom paint IS  
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MarkT
Member
    
Posts: 5196
VRCC #437 "Form follows Function"
Colorado Front Range - elevation 2.005 km
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« Reply #11 on: April 16, 2016, 06:04:42 PM » |
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Thanks Mark. Have a fresh battery on it and keep it plugged to a tender. Have not checked the valves. Only have 40k miles on it so didn't figure valves would be likely but definitely worth checking. thanks
Just FYI Jade had 26k miles on it & when I adjusted the valves 2 weeks ago several of them were too tight. 3 were loose. After adjustment it ran noticeably better and of course quieter. I doubt they had ever been adjusted and being 20 yrs old, kinda think that was partly why.
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Bighead
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« Reply #12 on: April 16, 2016, 06:07:51 PM » |
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Thanks Mark. Have a fresh battery on it and keep it plugged to a tender. Have not checked the valves. Only have 40k miles on it so didn't figure valves would be likely but definitely worth checking. thanks
Also keeping a battery on a tender doesn't mean it is good or fresh.
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1997 Bumble Bee 1999 Interstate (sold) 2016 Wing
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desertrefugee
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« Reply #13 on: April 16, 2016, 08:22:03 PM » |
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+1 on the battery condition and/or connections. Firing six plugs through 3 coils takes a very solid primary ignition voltage. Double check battery and its connections. Amazing what a difference in ease of starting this can make.
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'97 Bumble Bee, '78 GL1000, '79 CBX, '78 CB750F, '74 CB750
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Tfrank59
Member
    
Posts: 1364
'98 Tourer
Western Washington
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« Reply #14 on: April 16, 2016, 08:27:44 PM » |
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This sounds like a carburetor/choke/fuel-air mixture (possibly even vacuum leak) issue rather than electrical. He says it starts right up and runs then dies.
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-Tom
Keep the rubber side down. USMC '78-'84 '98 Valkyrie, ‘02 VTX 1800, '96 Royal Star, '06 Drifter, '09 Bonneville, '10 KTM 530, '04 XR 650, '76 Bultaco, '81 CR 450, '78 GS 750...
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bigdanIA
Member
    
Posts: 50
'98 tourer
brooklyn, iowa
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« Reply #15 on: April 16, 2016, 08:32:13 PM » |
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I know you've been around, but you didn't say, you do know with the chock you have to turn it on till it doesn't want to move, and then force it about another 1/2".
After starting, and it doesn't rev high rpm, then I don't think the chock is on.
that's a fact, when i first got the valk i didn't realize the effort required to engage the enricheners, basically you push the choke as far as it will go easily and then you push it another quarter turn (give or take) ... point is that if you are only pushing the enricheners as far as they will travel easily you are not doing anything, it takes some legitimate effort to overcome the enrichener springs...
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WintrSol
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« Reply #16 on: April 17, 2016, 11:46:24 AM » |
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+1 on the battery condition and/or connections. Firing six plugs through 3 coils takes a very solid primary ignition voltage. Double check battery and its connections. Amazing what a difference in ease of starting this can make.
Don't forget the ground cable at the engine case; over time, even if not disturbed, it can build up resistance. A good scrub of the aluminum with something like deOxit can go a long way to getting more firing power.
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98 Honda Valkyrie GL1500CT Tourer Photo of my FIL Jack, in honor of his WWII service
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Daniel Meyer
Member
    
Posts: 5492
Author. Adventurer. Electrician.
The State of confusion.
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« Reply #17 on: April 17, 2016, 12:40:32 PM » |
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I know you've been around, but you didn't say, you do know with the chock you have to turn it on till it doesn't want to move, and then force it about another 1/2".
After starting, and it doesn't rev high rpm, then I don't think the chock is on.
that's a fact, when i first got the valk i didn't realize the effort required to engage the enricheners, basically you push the choke as far as it will go easily and then you push it another quarter turn (give or take) ... point is that if you are only pushing the enricheners as far as they will travel easily you are not doing anything, it takes some legitimate effort to overcome the enrichener springs... Yep, that's my vote. Description is classic/exactly what this acts like.
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CUAgain, Daniel Meyer 
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desertrefugee
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« Reply #18 on: April 17, 2016, 02:28:41 PM » |
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For what it's worth, I almost never, even in winter, use the enrichening (choke) function on my Valkyrie. It fires right up and runs smoothly, but slowly. I use the throttle lock to hold the speed up, but even that is rarely needed.
And, yes, sometimes it gets cool in Phoenix. This practice has even worked for me with temperatures in the 40s (F).
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'97 Bumble Bee, '78 GL1000, '79 CBX, '78 CB750F, '74 CB750
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