|
peter
|
 |
« on: April 16, 2016, 04:47:53 PM » |
|
Do any of you guys know a way to get the air box tubes all the way seated into the carbs? I have 3 rear tubes seated but I'm having a hell of a time getting the others pushed all the way down on the carbs.
Get a 300 ib neighbor to sit on it? I have the intakes installed and the air box mounting screw is lined up with the frame so everything should be "aligned". WTF?
Thanks very much for any ideas...
Peter
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
'98 Valk
'56 BSA
'04 Ducati
|
|
|
|
The emperor has no clothes
|
|
« Reply #1 on: April 16, 2016, 04:55:03 PM » |
|
Try a couple 2x4's on top of the box with a ratchet strap over the the top of them .
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Firefighter
|
|
« Reply #2 on: April 16, 2016, 04:56:37 PM » |
|
There is a utube video "valkyrie airbox install" should get you there.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
2000 Valkyrie Interstate, Black/Red
2006 Honda Sabre 1100
2013 Honda Spirit 750
2002 Honda Rebel 250
1978 Honda 750
|
|
|
John Schmidt
Member
Posts: 15223
a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike
De Pere, WI (Green Bay)
|
|
« Reply #3 on: April 16, 2016, 04:59:22 PM » |
|
First, keep in mind there's a rather large wire bundle that usually causes interference. I use a ratchet tie-down strap and a 4-5" piece of 2x4. Install the top on the airbox then set the 2x4 on it. Hook the tie-down on the underneath section of the engine guard(the angled brace) on both sides, then ratchet it down with the strap laying over the top of the wood. It will pull it down tight and you'll have both hands free, you don't have to hold it down with one hand and start screws/bolts with the other. Check the backside of the rubber runners to be sure they're not caught on the back of the carbs and curled under. If so, use a long skinny screw driver to run around the top of the carb under the rubber. Then proceed to fasten down all the hose clamps. Once everything is tight, then remove the strap.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
BobB
|
|
« Reply #4 on: April 16, 2016, 05:33:35 PM » |
|
It's nice to look down the velocity stacks to see how you are lining up with the carburetors. I lay a 1x4 across the lower half of the air box and use a small two ton hydraulic jack pushing down from the handle bar cross clamp. I have after market risers so that may not work for all...
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
peter
|
|
« Reply #5 on: April 16, 2016, 06:01:31 PM » |
|
Ah, I see I'm not the only one to have experienced this problem!
As always, I am truly amazed and appreciative for all the help I get here. Thanks all for taking the time to help me out. I'll try out the strap method tomorrow (if I can find my tie-downs...). Thanks, John, for all the great details.
Peter
'98 Jade Green
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
'98 Valk
'56 BSA
'04 Ducati
|
|
|
|
old2soon
|
|
« Reply #6 on: April 16, 2016, 06:31:35 PM » |
|
First, keep in mind there's a rather large wire bundle that usually causes interference. I use a ratchet tie-down strap and a 4-5" piece of 2x4. Install the top on the airbox then set the 2x4 on it. Hook the tie-down on the underneath section of the engine guard(the angled brace) on both sides, then ratchet it down with the strap laying over the top of the wood. It will pull it down tight and you'll have both hands free, you don't have to hold it down with one hand and start screws/bolts with the other. Check the backside of the rubber runners to be sure they're not caught on the back of the carbs and curled under. If so, use a long skinny screw driver to run around the top of the carb under the rubber. Then proceed to fasten down all the hose clamps. Once everything is tight, then remove the strap.
THIS method was what I used after the desmog.  And do NOT fergit the long screwdriver. And when yer done mix up an icy old screwdriver!  RIDE SAFE. |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Today is the tommorow you worried about yesterday. If at first you don't succeed screw it-save it for nite check. 1964 1968 U S Navy. Two cruises off Nam.
VRCCDS0240 2012 GL1800 Gold Wing Motor Trike conversion
|
|
|
|
pancho
|
|
« Reply #7 on: April 16, 2016, 07:35:49 PM » |
|
" I lay a 1x4 across the lower half of the air box and use a small two ton hydraulic jack pushing down from the handle bar cross clamp. " Yeowll Bob  I've learned to fold and hogtie all the boots together with a cord that I can release without any knots,, it just drops into place...,, Then, you need to take the time to work each tube into place using a dental mirror and rounded hook tool or similar to insure the backside of each is in place. With some practice, it comes fairly easily. |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.
|
|
|
|
Blackduck
|
|
« Reply #8 on: April 16, 2016, 07:42:56 PM » |
|
Never understood the need to use excess weight on the airbox.
Anytime mine does not sit in place there is always one of the tubes folded over, even when I swear I have them on correctly.
Think about it this way, did the airbox spring up when you undid all the clamps to remove?
The tubes spend most of their life in position and take a "set" and are happy to go back to that position.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
2001 Standard, 78 Goldwing, VRCC 21411
|
|
|
|
peter
|
|
« Reply #9 on: April 17, 2016, 06:45:39 AM » |
|
I had some success last night. Common sense, really, but I tried to fit/seat/push the tube down on the backside of the carb first, and then pull the tube over and down the front. This way, you reduce the likelihood of the tube being hung up on the backside of the carb, and keeps all the fiddling in the front where you can see and get to it. I have 4 done, 2 to go...
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
'98 Valk
'56 BSA
'04 Ducati
|
|
|
h13man
Member
Posts: 1757
To everything there is an exception.
Indiana NW Central Flatlands
|
|
« Reply #10 on: April 17, 2016, 07:52:36 AM » |
|
Using some silicone lube will also help with the process. I like the 2x4 idea. I have to put that in my manual notes. |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
medulla762
|
|
« Reply #11 on: April 17, 2016, 08:16:13 AM » |
|
I'd rather do ten airbox installs as opposed to one heat shield. That DANG heat shield gives me a helluva fight! cd
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
John Schmidt
Member
Posts: 15223
a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike
De Pere, WI (Green Bay)
|
|
« Reply #12 on: April 17, 2016, 08:54:44 AM » |
|
I'd rather do ten airbox installs as opposed to one heat shield. That DANG heat shield gives me a helluva fight! cd
If you removed it to pull the carbs, you wasted some effort. It's not necessary, therefore it saves you the trouble of putting it back in. Once out, heat it up good and while wearing gloves, you can bend it around pretty good to reinstall it. |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
peter
|
|
« Reply #13 on: April 17, 2016, 10:34:12 AM » |
|
Got all the tubes on, finally. Heat shield is no big deal on desmogged Valks...and getting the carbs out is a hell of a lot easier.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
'98 Valk
'56 BSA
'04 Ducati
|
|
|
John Schmidt
Member
Posts: 15223
a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike
De Pere, WI (Green Bay)
|
|
« Reply #14 on: April 17, 2016, 06:01:53 PM » |
|
Got all the tubes on, finally. Heat shield is no big deal on desmogged Valks...and getting the carbs out is a hell of a lot easier.
I agree BUT.....just leave it in place and loosen the engine hangers and swing them out of the way or remove them, the engine isn't going to drop. Gives plenty of room to go past the heat shield. |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
davit
|
|
« Reply #15 on: April 17, 2016, 06:03:29 PM » |
|
The airbox removal/reinstall process is a whole lot easier if you remove the hose clamps. Put em back on once the tubes are properly seated.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
pancho
|
|
« Reply #16 on: April 17, 2016, 06:47:55 PM » |
|
I'd rather do ten airbox installs as opposed to one heat shield. That DANG heat shield gives me a helluva fight! cd
The easiest way I have found is to unbolt/remove the engine hangers before removing the carbs. When putting it back together, put the carbs in but leave them pulled to the rear, then put the shield in, move the carbs forward and do the intakes. Put the engine hangers back in place last. Trying to install the shield in with the carbs secured in place is a bear,,, not worth trying. |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.
|
|
|
|
Steve K (IA)
|
|
« Reply #17 on: April 17, 2016, 08:25:22 PM » |
|
I'd rather do ten airbox installs as opposed to one heat shield. That DANG heat shield gives me a helluva fight! cd
The easiest way I have found is to unbolt/remove the engine hangers before removing the carbs. When putting it back together, put the carbs in but leave them pulled to the rear, then put the shield in, move the carbs forward and do the intakes. Put the engine hangers back in place last. Trying to install the shield in with the carbs secured in place is a bear,,, not worth trying. The "Air Guide" was quite the puzzle. I put I/S pods on my Std and got the Air Guide for an I/S because otherwise, what would be the use if the pods weren't functional. I had the intake runners off. Layed the Air Guide (heat shield) on top of the carbs sliding it in from the left side with the front of the guide facing up. Move the guide forward and rotate downwards and fell right into place. |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
 States I Have Ridden In |
|
|
|
hukmut
|
|
« Reply #18 on: April 18, 2016, 08:42:29 AM » |
|
I spray WD-40 on all the parts that I am putting together. More is better. Goes together without breaking a sweat. I also use a long screwdriver to "help" get those edges to slip over. That string trick works too but using the lube cannot be beat, IMHO. Ride safe... |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Fazer
|
|
« Reply #19 on: April 18, 2016, 10:31:49 AM » |
|
I did it the way Dag (I think is his name) shows in this video when I did my desmog. I had absolutely no trouble with it. http://valkyrienorway.com/airboxinstall.html |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Nothing in moderation...
|
|
|
|
