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Author Topic: Electrical Problem  (Read 998 times)
Gideon
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Posts: 462


Indianapolis, IN.


« on: April 22, 2016, 05:50:18 AM »

I have an electrical problem that has me scratching my head.

With the engine running the head light is out, the tail light is out, the gauges do not light and the tachometer is not working. However, the brake lights work and the turn signals work.

I checked the fuses under the right hand side cover, none are blown.  ???
 
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But they that wait upon the Lord shall renew their strength; they shall mount up with wings as eagles; they shall run and not be weary; they shall walk, and not faint.  Isaiah 40:31
pancho
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Posts: 2113


Bonanza Arkansas


« Reply #1 on: April 22, 2016, 06:10:30 AM »

Hey Gideon, first thing I would do is physically pull and replace the 10 amp tail/meter fuse, even if it is good the connections may be faulty and need cleaned.
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The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.
Chrisj CMA
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Posts: 14775


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #2 on: April 22, 2016, 06:26:46 AM »

Sounds like the alternator.  Check the 55A fusable link, and put a volt meter to the battery while running, see if you are getting 14V
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Ramie
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Posts: 1318


2001 I/S St. Michael MN


« Reply #3 on: April 22, 2016, 06:44:54 AM »

Never checked to see if the start switch affects the tail light along with the headlight but it definitely affects the Headlight.
http://www.rattlebars.com/mtz/starter.html
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“I am not a courageous person by nature. I have simply discovered that, at certain key moments in this life, you must find courage in yourself, in order to move forward and live. It is like a muscle and it must be exercised, first a little, and then more and more.  A deep breath and a leap.”
Gryphon Rider
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Posts: 5227


2000 Tourer

Calgary, Alberta


« Reply #4 on: April 22, 2016, 07:54:53 AM »

What I think is the problem is your ignition switch (key switch) or the wiring or connections to/from it.  The ignition switch actually switches three different circuits: IG1, IG2, and FAN.  On a Tourer or Standard, IG1 switches the ignition, starter, turn signals, stop light, and horn.  IG2 switches headlights, running lights, meters, and the accessory terminals.  Your troubles are all part of the IG2 circuit.
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Bubba FoSho
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Posts: 11


« Reply #5 on: April 22, 2016, 03:26:50 PM »

I had that same problem 45 miles from home. My alternator bit the dust. $500 bucks for a brand new alternator fixed all my problem. I would check the charging system. Make sure the ground cable at the battery is clean and tight.
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Gideon
Member
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Posts: 462


Indianapolis, IN.


« Reply #6 on: April 23, 2016, 07:59:37 AM »

Thanks for the replies. This board is awesome!
I pulled and checked all the fuses. I also used emery paper on the fuse’s tabs before installing them. I also checked the large fuse link. The battery cables are clean and tight. Not having a Volt Meter I could not check the alternator output.
However, if it is the alternator and I hope it isn’t, I will have to go to the dealer to get it repaired.

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But they that wait upon the Lord shall renew their strength; they shall mount up with wings as eagles; they shall run and not be weary; they shall walk, and not faint.  Isaiah 40:31
gordonv
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Posts: 5762


VRCC # 31419

Richmond BC


« Reply #7 on: April 23, 2016, 08:32:23 AM »

However, if it is the alternator and I hope it isn’t, I will have to go to the dealer to get it repaired.

Now why would you need to take it to a dealer?

First, take it out and take it apart, and see if the brushes are moving. If or not moving, clean them out. My 88' GW had stuck brushes. Lots left. Cleaned them out with WD40 and got full voltage back. Bought new brushes so I would have them on had for a swap out in a few years. Sold the bike, and now need to do the same on the IS, along with adding a volt meter to the bike.

If you don't already have a meter, then go out and buy one. I have mine from when I was 16 years old and my Bro gave it to me as a birthday gift. I have also gotten a nice digital Fluk back when they where expensive.

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1999 Black with custom paint IS

Gryphon Rider
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Posts: 5227


2000 Tourer

Calgary, Alberta


« Reply #8 on: April 23, 2016, 02:37:22 PM »

Simple charging system test, usually done with the headlight, but if you tie your front brake lever so the brake light illuminates, that'll work too:  Start your bike and let it slow idle for a couple of minutes. Rev the engine while looking at your brake light. If it gets brighter, your alternator is increasing the voltage, i.e. working.
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Red Diamond
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Posts: 2245


Beaumont, Texas


« Reply #9 on: April 23, 2016, 04:27:56 PM »

Start switch, remove and clean the slide contacts.
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Gavin_Sons
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Posts: 7109


VRCC# 32796

columbus indiana


« Reply #10 on: April 24, 2016, 05:42:44 AM »

The dealer willmake you buy a new one while they keep your old one, rebuild it and sell it as new to the next unexpecting customer. Especially if your talking about Dryer honda. Take the 2 bolts out and the wires and take it to a alternator shop to get new brushes, or do it yourself, pretty simple job.
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Bubba FoSho
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Posts: 11


« Reply #11 on: April 24, 2016, 11:12:08 AM »

What ever you do if replacing the alternator don't buy a rebuilt from E-bay.. Done been down that road.
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Bubba FoSho
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*****
Posts: 11


« Reply #12 on: April 24, 2016, 11:31:34 AM »

The best investment I ever made when I bought my 1999 Honda Valkyrie Interstate in 2004 was buy a Honda Valkyrie factory service manual... It has paid for itself many times. It covers everything from front to rear and I mean everything too. I'm a 36 year experienced full time automotive mechanic. I do my own maintenance to my bike.
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