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Author Topic: 2000 Interstate Shock adjust question  (Read 2785 times)
Hoodcounty
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Posts: 17


« on: May 01, 2016, 12:56:39 PM »

Hello,
 New member, new owner.  cooldude
2000 Interstate with 64K miles, red/black and beautiful!

All things are as they should be, runs and rides great, but I noticed that on rare occasion with the wife and I onboard, the rear end will bottom.
Not hard, but enough to feel end of travel.

My question after reading the manual several times is this: What direction does one turn the shock adjustment to increase preload?

Right now, viewing the shock from the front of the bike, #5 is in line with the front of the bike, and the shock will not move in either direction with reasonable force. 
I tried the adjustment in both directions, again not using excessive force, but had the bike on both wheels at the time.
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Firefighter
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Posts: 1165


Harlingen, Texas


« Reply #1 on: May 01, 2016, 04:05:08 PM »

They are a pain because of the saddle bags. Some guys use a strap wrench, I could never make that work. I usually use channel lock pliers and try to pad the jaws somehow. I also have a center stand which helps. I now have Progressive 444 and I can't turn them without pliers of some type. Hopefully somebody here can help more.
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2000 Valkyrie Interstate, Black/Red
2006 Honda Sabre 1100
2013 Honda Spirit 750
2002 Honda Rebel 250
1978 Honda 750
Joe Hummer
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VRCC #25677 VRCC Missouri State Representative

Arnold, MO


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« Reply #2 on: May 01, 2016, 04:13:18 PM »

If you have a jack, lift the rear wheel off the ground when you try to adjust the shocks.  Taking the load off helps it go smoothly. 

A word of caution...going from 5 to 1 will cause a loud noise.  If you aren't ready for it, you may wet yourself a little or think you have broken something.  It is best not to jump from 5 to 1 though. 

The tool kit should have come with the spanner wrench and an extension bar that fits on the end of the spanner wrench.  It will give you more leverage to most the shocks.

Good luck. 

Joe
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1999 Valkyrie Interstate
You pay for the whole bike, why not use it Jerry Motorman Palladino
Hoodcounty
Member
*****
Posts: 17


« Reply #3 on: May 01, 2016, 04:53:08 PM »

If you have a jack, lift the rear wheel off the ground when you try to adjust the shocks.  Taking the load off helps it go smoothly. 

A word of caution...going from 5 to 1 will cause a loud noise.  If you aren't ready for it, you may wet yourself a little or think you have broken something.  It is best not to jump from 5 to 1 though. 

The tool kit should have come with the spanner wrench and an extension bar that fits on the end of the spanner wrench.  It will give you more leverage to most the shocks.

Good luck. 

Joe

Thanks,
I didn't think to look for the extension.  that tells me about force required.

To pursue this, how do you know where the shock is set?  I didn't find anything like an arrow or other indicator that say "You are now Here".
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dconstruct55
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Posts: 126

Phoenix AZ.


« Reply #4 on: May 01, 2016, 05:35:21 PM »

Clockwise is tightening, or to be more specific, clockwise will tighten up the spring so you will have less sag. Counterclockwise will loosen the spring and give greater travel, but less spring resistance to absorb the bumps. Hard to say where you should set it, that depends on the combined weight of you and your rider. (Be careful how you inquire that of your significant other) There should be some indicator to show where you are, I would start by getting the weight off the rear, remove the bags so you can see what you are doing and proceed as JoeValk advises. Go all the way to tighten the spring and then back off two notches. Give it a ride and adjust from there. Good luck, ride safe and welcome to the forum.
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dconstruct55
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Posts: 126

Phoenix AZ.


« Reply #5 on: May 01, 2016, 05:47:29 PM »

Firefighter,
I just put on some 444's and have no problem turning them by hand. I take off the bags and grab a pretty thick pair of rubber coated gloves and it is relatively easy. No need to jack her up.
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pancho
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Posts: 2113


Bonanza Arkansas


« Reply #6 on: May 01, 2016, 06:11:44 PM »

If you have a jack, lift the rear wheel off the ground when you try to adjust the shocks.  Taking the load off helps it go smoothly. 

A word of caution...going from 5 to 1 will cause a loud noise.  If you aren't ready for it, you may wet yourself a little or think you have broken something.  It is best not to jump from 5 to 1 though. 

The tool kit should have come with the spanner wrench and an extension bar that fits on the end of the spanner wrench.  It will give you more leverage to most the shocks.

Good luck. 

Joe


Thanks,
I didn't think to look for the extension.  that tells me about force required.

To pursue this, how do you know where the shock is set?  I didn't find anything like an arrow or other indicator that say "You are now Here".

You can feel it,, as was mentioned, with the wheel off the ground, you can adjust them with the spanner and extension, and as you go towards 5 it gets stiffer, as you go towards 1, it gets easier. If you go from 1 to 5 or visa versa, you will know it. If you turn it around completely through all settings two or three times, you will get the feel for it.
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The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.
Lyle Laun
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Posts: 259


Calgary, Ab


« Reply #7 on: May 01, 2016, 08:26:35 PM »

If it's the factory shocks on it, there should be an arrow on each shock which will indicate what setting you are on.
Follow JoeValk's advice, remove the bags (4 bolts), lift the back end, use the factory spanner & cheater bar combo.
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Get out & Ride !!
97 Red/White Standard dressed as Tourer
98 Black "Rat Rod" Standard
99 Green/Silver Interstate
Firefighter
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Posts: 1165


Harlingen, Texas


« Reply #8 on: May 02, 2016, 08:49:51 AM »

Yea Decon, but taking off the bags to adjust the shocks is quite a bit for a small adjustment, like if you adjust for a passenger. Also the 444's for me are difficult to see those rings to know if they are even on both sides. Maybe should mark them somehow to make life easier. Thanks
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2000 Valkyrie Interstate, Black/Red
2006 Honda Sabre 1100
2013 Honda Spirit 750
2002 Honda Rebel 250
1978 Honda 750
dconstruct55
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Posts: 126

Phoenix AZ.


« Reply #9 on: May 02, 2016, 07:11:51 PM »

I'm with you on the ring thing FF, little buggers are hard to see. I am still messing with mine, only had them on a week, so still tweaking. Not certain how much resistance each thread provides. I am trying to figure out a way to mark what works for me, and then what works for me and my wife. IF I figure that out I will let you know.
Dcon
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mustang071965
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those that dare, Succeed.

monticello Ar


« Reply #10 on: May 03, 2016, 06:23:43 AM »

i have found on my I/S that if you jack it up and remove the weight from the shock then it is much more easy to turn. i have the center stand on mine so dont have to use the lift any more.
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Firefighter
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Posts: 1165


Harlingen, Texas


« Reply #11 on: May 04, 2016, 10:54:44 AM »

Thanks Decon, I need to find time to experiment and do the same! Let me know what you figure out. Thanks
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2000 Valkyrie Interstate, Black/Red
2006 Honda Sabre 1100
2013 Honda Spirit 750
2002 Honda Rebel 250
1978 Honda 750
Chrisj CMA
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Posts: 14775


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #12 on: May 06, 2016, 01:56:13 PM »

They are a pain because of the saddle bags. Some guys use a strap wrench, I could never make that work. I usually use channel lock pliers and try to pad the jaws somehow. I also have a center stand which helps. I now have Progressive 444 and I can't turn them without pliers of some type. Hopefully somebody here can help more.
Why not just use the shock adjustment tool provided in the tool kit?
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