Mike in AR
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« on: May 05, 2016, 11:46:41 AM » |
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Hi. I was in the process of removing the exhaust pipes, got down to the last bolt, and it broke. Got the exhaust off, and the stud is broken at the last thread on the 6mm side, so there is enough sticking out to grab on to. The problem is that the rest of the bolt must must be frozen in there because I can't get it to budge with the vise grips. Any suggestions on what to do? All help is appreciated.
Thanks Mike
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Do not dwell in the past, do not dream of the future, concentrate the mind on the present moment.
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #1 on: May 05, 2016, 11:53:43 AM » |
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You have it bathing in penetrating oil, right?. Then a heat gun and retry the vise grips
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Mike in AR
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« Reply #2 on: May 05, 2016, 12:00:08 PM » |
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Chrisj, I keep spraying WD-40 on it, but don't have a heat gun. I can only get a grip on it with the tip of the vise grips. Is there some other type of tool I can use?
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Do not dwell in the past, do not dream of the future, concentrate the mind on the present moment.
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Jess from VA
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« Reply #3 on: May 05, 2016, 12:13:14 PM » |
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All the above, plus a bit of tapping, and tightening before loosening can be magic. (or not)
If you have some sticking out, you can also Dremel wheel a slot for a big screwdriver.
When ordering a new stud (not bolt), get extras. The dang acorn cap-nuts are expensive. Get new gaskets too.
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Gryphon Rider
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Posts: 5227
2000 Tourer
Calgary, Alberta
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« Reply #4 on: May 05, 2016, 12:17:07 PM » |
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Chrisj, I keep spraying WD-40 on it, but don't have a heat gun. I can only get a grip on it with the tip of the vise grips. Is there some other type of tool I can use?
WD-40 ≠ penetrating oil.
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Firefighter
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« Reply #5 on: May 05, 2016, 12:21:47 PM » |
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I like PB Blaster best, and the vise grips need to be good not wore out, the gripping part needs to have the dots or raised dots to grip correctly. May have to let it sit awhile with the spray soaking, can litely tap the end of the bolt, sometimes helps. Keep trying a little till you fill it start to move then work it back and forth till it lets go, don't force it. Heat would be best.
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2000 Valkyrie Interstate, Black/Red 2006 Honda Sabre 1100 2013 Honda Spirit 750 2002 Honda Rebel 250 1978 Honda 750
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MarkT
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Posts: 5196
VRCC #437 "Form follows Function"
Colorado Front Range - elevation 2.005 km
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« Reply #6 on: May 05, 2016, 12:45:43 PM » |
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FYI The very best - tested best - penetrating oil, isn't a commercial product. It's a 50/50 mix of acetone & ATF fluid. google it. +1 on the tapping, tightening first, Dremel to make a slot, and heat methods. All work with varied degrees of success, and combos of them too. I'd say, give it your best shot the first time so you don't destroy the stub that's left w/o success. BTW, a good, squared off slot with a Dremel - if you can get it in there - together with an impact screwdriver, and some heat all used together on the first try are likely to succeed.
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Mike in AR
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« Reply #7 on: May 05, 2016, 01:01:43 PM » |
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Jess, I already have the extras, and you are right about the acorn nuts.
Looks like am off to town for a heat gun and some new vise grips. Might as well pick up some PB Blaster while I'm there.
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Do not dwell in the past, do not dream of the future, concentrate the mind on the present moment.
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MarkT
Member
    
Posts: 5196
VRCC #437 "Form follows Function"
Colorado Front Range - elevation 2.005 km
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« Reply #8 on: May 05, 2016, 01:04:55 PM » |
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Jess, I already have the extras, and you are right about the acorn nuts.
Looks like am off to town for a heat gun and some new vise grips. Might as well pick up some PB Blaster while I'm there.
I use a torch for this kind of problem. Judiciously. Higher heat than a heat gun needed, and more focussed.
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Patrick
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Posts: 15433
VRCC 4474
Largo Florida
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« Reply #9 on: May 05, 2016, 02:16:38 PM » |
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Heat [ real heat], tapping with hammer straight up, and your vise grips should do it.
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #10 on: May 05, 2016, 02:31:29 PM » |
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Gots to be careful using torch on aluminum. I usually use the run the engine method of warming before removing critical fasteners. I would think a good heat gun would simulate running temp. Just be berry berry careful putting flames to your aluminum block.
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bentwrench
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« Reply #11 on: May 05, 2016, 02:50:58 PM » |
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If i get one stuck fast I mig weld a nut to the stud,spray with pb as it's cooling down and voila they usually come right out.
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« Last Edit: May 05, 2016, 04:21:57 PM by bentwrench »
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Mike in AR
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« Reply #12 on: May 05, 2016, 03:15:01 PM » |
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As I was headed out the driveway, my next door neighbor pulled up. Told him my problem and where I was headed, and he said to hang on 'cause he had a heat gun and good vise grips in his garage. Saved me a 20 mile trip (one way) to the nearest BIG town. So, with a little heat, a lot of WD-40, and some tightening and loosening action, I finally got it out. Sprayed some WD-40 into the hole, added some anti-seize to the new stud, and installed. (Actually had to put an acorn nut on ti to get it to screw all the way in). My thanks to all who replied.
Mark T, My friend had a torch, but I was worried about the head melting. When you look in the dictionary for a picture of Murphy, and his law, you will see my face. LOL
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Do not dwell in the past, do not dream of the future, concentrate the mind on the present moment.
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MarkT
Member
    
Posts: 5196
VRCC #437 "Form follows Function"
Colorado Front Range - elevation 2.005 km
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« Reply #13 on: May 05, 2016, 07:42:48 PM » |
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Right. I did say "judiciously". Meaning very carefully, stepwise, and propane or MAPP gas not acetylene.
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Firefighter
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« Reply #14 on: May 06, 2016, 07:37:23 AM » |
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Good job, those broken bolts can turn ugly.
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2000 Valkyrie Interstate, Black/Red 2006 Honda Sabre 1100 2013 Honda Spirit 750 2002 Honda Rebel 250 1978 Honda 750
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heavyd
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« Reply #15 on: May 07, 2016, 09:36:09 AM » |
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When my exhaust stud twisted off these were a lifesaver, much better than vice grips imho. They have saved me a few other times too. 
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gordonv
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Posts: 5762
VRCC # 31419
Richmond BC
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« Reply #16 on: May 07, 2016, 10:09:13 AM » |
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Those look like they are reverse twist, and you place it over the bolt, and while untightening the bolt, they dig in (like the reverse twist drill). But being larger, they get a better bite.
Where and how much, can you get them.
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1999 Black with custom paint IS  
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heavyd
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« Reply #17 on: May 07, 2016, 10:34:10 AM » |
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Those look like they are reverse twist, and you place it over the bolt, and while untightening the bolt, they dig in (like the reverse twist drill). But being larger, they get a better bite.
Where and how much, can you get them.
That's exactly what they do, like the female version of a normal bolt extractor. I got mine from Canadian Tire(Mastercraft), on sale for about $20 but there are also some made by Irwin that would be more widespread. I have had them bite into a rounded nut so tight that I had to put it in a vice and screw the socket back off.
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Mike in AR
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« Reply #18 on: May 07, 2016, 03:32:22 PM » |
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What are they called? I'd like to get some, just in case.
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Do not dwell in the past, do not dream of the future, concentrate the mind on the present moment.
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Jess from VA
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« Reply #19 on: May 07, 2016, 04:12:13 PM » |
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Stud/Screw extractors.
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h13man
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Posts: 1756
To everything there is an exception.
Indiana NW Central Flatlands
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« Reply #20 on: May 08, 2016, 05:28:15 AM » |
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Keep adding penetrating oil, LIGHT tapping, and move the vise grips back and forth gently should do the trick. Patience is the major ingredient. If heat is needed, you have a major corrosion issue thus use the same procedure as for cold routine. A household propane unit should do the trick. It nice to have something to grip onto treat extra special.
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