Replacing left cylinder head

[cogsman]

Hi All,

I am replacing the left cylinder head, the drama being documented in another thread which I won't bore you with. I did have a couple of questions:

Please have a look at the old gasket that came out:



And a used but apparently good gasket that I was told I can use to replace the old one:



Any thoughts? I have never done this before; I am following the service manual but wanted some advice on whether or not I should use this used gasket in the second picture or just by a new one.

I need to replace the cylinder head because a) there was coolant leaking from the seam where the gasket fits, b) the drive pulley was jerry rigged in a ridiculous way (welded, so I had to angel grind it off) and c) I broke a bolt for the cylinder head cover and couldn't extract it.

Do I need to treat the gasket in any way? I heard something like "gasket dressing" while someone else told me to spray paint it immediately before i stuck it on which seems pretty crazy to me...

I'm also wondering if someone could help me understand what "valve timing" is all about; I was advised I will have to do this after I replace a cylinder head.

Just as an FYI, here is what Piston #2 looks like at TDC:

[John Schmidt]

Personally I'd never reuse a head gasket unless I was stuck in the middle of nowhere and had to do it just to get back to civilization. It's just too much work to remove and replace the head a second time if the used gasket won't seal. If you do use it, coat both sides with some Copper Coat, seals really good.

[cogsman]

Copper Coat as in the marine anti-foul?

[MITCHO]

If you like changing head gaskets I would use the used one  if you don't want to do it again put a new one in it and put a straight edge on the head and block.

[Firefighter]

Never heard of using a used head gasket! Buy a new one. Need to clean old gasket off block and head. Need to follow your manual as it explains in detail how to torque the head bolts and how to install the cam assembly so as not to damage the valves, says to replace the water pipe o-ring etc.

 You will have to make sure the timing belts and pulleys are correctly timed. You will have to adjust the valves. Need a manual.

 That piston looks like in has a lot of carbon that should be cleaned off the best you can. Do not see the other pistons or spark plugs to compare. Could be running rich or not at all on that cylinder??

[John Schmidt]

To remove old gasket material on aluminum I use paint remover. Spread it on with a small artist brush, let sit and test a spot to see if it's softened. Once softened it will come off with little or no effort, you don't want to be scraping hard on aluminum. Make sure you wipe down the surfaces good with some Goof Off or alcohol, you want all the paint remover residue gone.

[Attic Rat]

Don't be cheap buy a new head gasket and install it dry just like the book says. I can't tell you how many head gaskets that I have installed on Valkyries. It would be a large number

[Paladin528]

never re use a head gasket.  they are designed to only be used once.  There re parts of the gasket that re designed to "crush" to mold into correct shape.

[cogsman]

Thanks for the tips guys. I ordered 2 new gaskets just in case I eff it up the first time. God bless America, where Canadians can shop cheaper even WITH a 25% exchange rate lol.

Regarding the procedure for reinstalling the cylinder head, adjusting timing, checking valves... I have the manual but I'm not sure whether I'm supposed to be following ignition timing or something else?

Somebody said something spooky earlier... that #2 might not even be firing. Is there a procedure for checking that? Like a way to know if the plug is getting current to fire?

I know the standard answer is "check the manual" ok I get it. But can someone please help me to understand these procedures? If I know WHY I have to do something, it's easier to work my way through it.

I have a few questions if you don't mind:

So to begin with, my right cam is on and it's fine. Haven't touched it at all.
Both timing belts are off.
The driven pulley on the right cam has UP marks rightside up.
I haven't touched this since I pulled the belts.
The crankcase is set to 1.2 TDC.
The left cam is completely off as you can see in the pics.
So...

I understand I can't move the crankcase right now, otherwise I may bend the valves on the right camshaft, is that correct?

I can clean the crap off of #2 because it's in TDC, but how would I get to the other pistons to clean them before I bolt the cylinder head back on if I can't turn the crankcase?

When I go to mount the cylinder head, I understand I'm supposed to turn the crankcase 40 degrees down to move the piston so it doesn't get impacted by the valves... but what happens to the right cylinder head when I do that? Isn't that going to screw something up on that side?

If I am reading the manual correctly, it looks like when the crankcase is at 1.2 TDC and the cam pulley UP marks are right side up, it is properly timed.... can it really be that simple?

I don't expect a full explanation, but any pointers would help. And if anyone does have the patience to help me along here, it would be appreciated.

[Firefighter]

I said that the engine might not be firing on that cylinder, but I can't compare the three cylinders because I can't see them. I am assuming the other cylinders are cleaner? Could be a spark plug or rich carb. or several other reasons, would worry about that later.

I would put the other side belt on with the tensioner and take those spark plugs out to ease turning the engine, that way you would be able to feel any interference while turning slowly. Also, make sure the transmission is in netural, seen that before!

Been alot of years for me, and others will know better, but the manual shows the up marks up and aligned with an index mark on the block, and the 1.2 mark lined up with the index on the block, I think like you described. I usually hi-lite the marks with a paint pen or what ever you like to make alignment at a glance easier.

I would follow the book step by step, and turn the engine a couple of turns easy like after installing belts to make sure of the all clear.

There are guys here that are much more experienced than me, or maybe just recently did this job. If you need any specific help ask us, we will help you get er done.

[RonW]

I can clean the crap off of #2 because it's in TDC, but how would I get to the other pistons to clean them before I bolt the cylinder head back on if I can't turn the crankcase?

If you haven't 'moved' the right cam wheel, then re-installing the belt on again on that side should keep the right-side valves synchronized with the crankshaft rotation while you're cleaning the rest of the cylinders on the left bank.

I'm working on my right side cylinder head, and a question that I'd like to know the answer to is are No. 1 and No. 2 pistons both suppose to be on TDC compression stroke when all the timing marks are aligned. Or, how the heck do I clock my right side cam shaft with the left cam shaft set at TDC compression stroke.

[Firefighter]

No,    When the T1.2 mark on the drive pulley lines up with the index mark on the block and the #1 piston is at top dead center and should have just finished the compression stroke  You need to make sure you are on compression stroke.

Number 2 piston will be on TDC but beginning intake stroke.

I am reading the manual for this info. and this is how I interpret it.

                                                                  Firefighter

[98valk]

I can clean the crap off of #2 because it's in TDC, but how would I get to the other pistons to clean them before I bolt the cylinder head back on if I can't turn the crankcase?

why? it will just carbon up again, esp., if using premium gas when only regular should be used or is it just the gas in Canada? 
U should put it back together and run a few tanks with reg and use techron full strength or Gumout with PEA chemicals or others that use the PEA technology. those additives will remove the carbon and clean up the back of the valves after a few tanks. Use a good additive schedule after initial cleanup
Caution cleaning the piston tops, u always run the risk of some of that hard carbon getting down btwn the piston and cylinder wall and into the rings. u run the risk of putting a gouge in the piston top also which could lead to other problems.

[Firefighter]

RONW, The way I read it, the cam is installed with the key way facing up, 12 o'clock. Book says you were supposed to rotate the crank 40 degrees so as not to damage valves. " I dont understand how it could have interference if the cam and crank are in the correct position". But I haven't read to rotate the crank back to the T1.2 position, but you have to before you go any further.??

Maybe someone can tell us, but if your cam key way is up and so your cam pulleys will be up and the T1.2 mark lined up everything should be straight. Thats the way I see it.

The manual tells about what to oil, grease, seals and locating pins.

Yea 98Valk, I read not to clean the carbon with the pistons still installed, guess you shouldn't, I always have on other engines.             Firefighter

[Attic Rat]

As you face the front of the engine with heads removed and both timing belts on the crank gears. Turn the crankshaft tell the pointer is at 6 o clock that way all the pistons are below deck and you won't run the risk of bending a valve. install the heads and then time the cams. there is a arrow on the chrome plate inside and out telling you where to put the timing gears. They will time with the UP mark facing up so you can read it correctly. the up marks will be at 9 and 3
Once you have both cams timed then you turn the crank so that the arrow on the block lines up with the mark on the crank put your timing  belts on and adjust them. You can then turn the crank slowly until  you have turned it 2 complete revaluations making sure that the valves don't hit the pistons. You can then recheck your timing marks. Always start the engine before installing the front cover that way if the timing belts need to be readjusted you can do it easily without having to remove the front cover.
I hope this helps you out. I do this weekly

[RonW]

A split second after I hit the "Post" button, I realized that the different geometry of the left & right cam lobes insures that when the left piston (No. 2) is on TDC compression stroke, than the right piston (No. 1) piston would be on TDC exhaust stroke, albeit with all the hash marks lined up properly. This assuming that opposing pistons of the same pair of pistons are actually clocked TDC exhaust/compression or visa versa.

My apology for sub-hijacking the OP's post, but perhaps it's better to discuss the similar problems involved on the same post up til the point when the snags branch off too much in different directions. The only difference is that I'm installing a right cylinder head while the cogsman (the OP) is installing his left cylinder head. cogsman, I'm purchasing this sealant, per manual. *I err, that sealant is for new gaskets in chrome head covers, rear cam covers, timing belt covers.

[cogsman]

I aligned both cams to T1.2 and the mark on the block with UP marks facing up. Then I pulled the left Cylinder Head. When I did, I didn't note whether or not the intake or exhaust valves were open on #2, and therefore I don't know whether it was on a compression or exhaust stroke.

How can I find out whether #1 was on compression or exhaust without pulling the right cam?

Once I know, I can time the left head.

[RonW]

How can I find out whether #1 was on compression or exhaust without pulling the right cam?

Once I know, I can time the left head.

I'm working on the Right cylinder head, but don't know what the left cylinder head is doing. I believe the right/left cams lobes are clocked differently so it does the proper TDC for you.

[Chrisj CMA]

I aligned both cams to T1.2 and the mark on the block with UP marks facing up. Then I pulled the left Cylinder Head. When I did, I didn't note whether or not the intake or exhaust valves were open on #2, and therefore I don't know whether it was on a compression or exhaust stroke.

How can I find out whether #1 was on compression or exhaust without pulling the right cam?

Once I know, I can time the left head.

Check the tappets on #1 if they are tight the valves on #1 are open, loose they are closed=compression stroke.  #2 will be the opposite of #1

[cogsman]

That sounds fine Chris but what's a tappet?  Sorry for the rudimentary question.

[98valk]

That sounds fine Chris but what's a tappet?  Sorry for the rudimentary question.

rocker arms

[Chrisj CMA]

That sounds fine Chris but what's a tappet?  Sorry for the rudimentary question.

The part you slip the feeler gauge under to check valve clearance

[cogsman]

Not quite sure what to do next. Please watch and comment (and have a good laugh too I'm sure lol):

https://youtu.be/w7u5hQlA0o8

[The emperor has no clothes]

Not quite sure what to do next. Please watch and comment (and have a good laugh too I'm sure lol):

https://youtu.be/w7u5hQlA0o8

Are there any friends that can help you ? I don't want to sound harsh but this is a pretty big job for you. The feeler gauge is going to go in between the rocker arm and valve like you were pointing at. When you get it all put back together , turn the engine over several revolutions to make sure it's right and nothing is going to get damaged.

[Chrisj CMA]

OK, so #1 is on compression stroke (some wiggle).  You can measure the valve lash on #1 because the valves are closed, rocker arm loose, not in contact with the push rod.  should be 0.15mm or 0.006in for the intakes.  That feeler gauge should slide right in but you have to have it perfectly flat to the end of the push rod.

The #2 piston while at TDC as well would have tight (no wiggle) rocker arms if it were installed right now, it would not be on compression stroke so you would not be able to check #2 if you can check #1

I agree with meathead here.  If inserting the feeler gauge for valve clearance check is this big a deal, should you really be re-assembling half the motor?

[Chrisj CMA]

Heres the deal.  Your assumption that #1 and #2 are doing the same thing at the same time is faulty.  They are traveling at the same time but only one is on compression stroke, the other is not.

In your case you have found that #1 is on compression stroke.

What I think you should do next is to loosen the 6 lock nuts on all intake and exhaust rockers ON THE REPLACEMENT HEAD ONLY then back off the adjustments all the way on all of them so the rockers will be way out of the way.

Then install the head and turn the cam until the ups all line up and all is timed

then install the belts

then FOLLOW THE BOOK for valve adjustment sequence.  You will do #1 but not #2 then rotate the the crank to the 3/4 position and do one of them but not the other (by the book).  Keep going until you set all six and then it should be good.

[cogsman]

Well, we all have to learn sometime right? And thanks to you guys I'm learning.

Maybe I'll have to end up spending more $$ on having a mechanic fix my screw ups, but I'd rather that be the case then just hand money over without even trying to do the job myself. With all the help I've received on this site so far, I've saved a ton of money.

Maybe this is where my options come to an end, but we shall see! Thanks again though; couldn't have come this far without all of you and your patience.

[RonW]

If you opt out now, I'm alone replacing my R. cylinder head. I was sorta lettin you go first.

From your video, yes, a wiggle on both valves for No. 1 cylinder indicates its piston is on TDC compression stroke. Cylinder 2's valves should be set the opposite at TDC exhaust stroke, and so on. I believe the opposing cams does this for you though. The cams lobes are clocked such that if No. 1 valves are positioned for TDC compression, No. 2 valves will be positioned for TDC exhaust respectively, when all the timing wheels are aligned to their factory hash marks.

When you're new to setting the valve lash, just where to stick the feeler gauge into will leave you scratching your head. Look up the "go/no-go" test when you're ready to set the valve lash.

[The emperor has no clothes]

Well, we all have to learn sometime right? And thanks to you guys I'm learning.

Maybe I'll have to end up spending more $$ on having a mechanic fix my screw ups, but I'd rather that be the case then just hand money over without even trying to do the job myself. With all the help I've received on this site so far, I've saved a ton of money.

Maybe this is where my options come to an end, but we shall see! Thanks again though; couldn't have come this far without all of you and your patience.

Hey, I'm pulling for you 

[Paladin528]

Cogsman:
I am in the west end of Toronto but if you need some help I can come by and give you a hand sometime this week.  I am relatively new to the Valk but have been a mechanic for 28 years.

[cogsman]

Thanks guys I think I'm ready to try it out on Saturday. I've done more research which you guys have validated. I looked up the go no go test and measured up. So now at least I know what I'm doing there. Certainly simpler than it seemed. Fingers crossed on timing the head. I'll try and post video. Thx guys!

As an aside some dude out hamilton way was selling a 98 tourer for $3k Canadian on kijiji. Jumped at it but it was long gone lol. I wonder who that lucky bastard was lol!

[The emperor has no clothes]

Thanks guys I think I'm ready to try it out on Saturday. I've done more research which you guys have validated. I looked up the go no go test and measured up. So now at least I know what I'm doing there. Certainly simpler than it seemed. Fingers crossed on timing the head. I'll try and post video. Thx guys!

As an aside some dude out hamilton way was selling a 98 tourer for $3k Canadian on kijiji. Jumped at it but it was long gone lol. I wonder who that lucky bastard was lol!

I'm keeping my fingers crossed for you.   

[cogsman]

I have the head ready to mount. A couple of questions:

New gasket: Someone here told me to put it on dry, and then someone else mentioned I should rub some grease on it first or even spray paint it? Is this necessary?

Can you tell me if this seal looks good on the water pipe?

[Chrisj CMA]

You would normally use a new set of O rings.  However, if it doesn't seal it's possible to remove that water pipe and change it later, it's just not very much fun, it doesn't look damaged from what I can see

[98valk]

gasket goes on dry per technical manual.

[Chrisj CMA]

Any progress on the cylinder head installation?  Hope all is moving forward.

[Paladin528]

HEad gaskets should always go on dry.  Any form of contamination on the gasket could give way and cause a leak.

[cogsman]

Cylinder head is on and timed. Just need to get the covers on do I can fire it up. Waiting on some adhesive for the rubber gaskets. Also waiting for my spacer on the final drive to slap everything back on. Fingers crossed for this weekend.

[Chrisj CMA]

Cylinder head is on and timed. Just need to get the covers on do I can fire it up. Waiting on some adhesive for the rubber gaskets. Also waiting for my spacer on the final drive to slap everything back on. Fingers crossed for this weekend.

If you are talking about the valve cover gasket they only take a tiny spot of adhesive on the little square landings on both sides of the cam bearings.  So four tiny dabs per gasket on the side facing the head...nothing between the cover and the gasket

I just use high temp RTV never had a leak done many

[cogsman]

Ok, it's done. It works. I rode! Hopefully nothing falls apart, but I did it!

A very gratifying experience. So from Xmas till now, here's what I've done:

Changed the setting on the carb needles to improve fuel efficiency after I added the stock mufflers
Removed and cleaned the air intake manifolds, replaced the o-rings
New tires (had this done at a shop)
Replaced front wheel
Replaced back wheel
Replaced front rotors
Replaced final drive
New propeller shaft
Replaced rear rotor with an IS rotor for the new 2J wheel
Replaced both front calipers
Replaced the left cylinder head gasket
Replaced the left cylinder head
Replaced left timing belt
Changed the fork oil (a good friend in Oshawa did this for me)
Checked all valve clearance
Changed the coolant
Changed the final drive oil
Changed the engine oil
Added an Eklipse 12V accessory unit

Wow, writing that out just floored me lol. Thanks to all of you who helped me with your advice. Couldn't have done it without you!!!

Here she is this morning up at Bond Head, Ontario: