Relay question?

[gordonv]

I was thinking of adding a relay, to trigger a power fuse block. To this end I was going to go out and buy an auto relay. Not knowing too much about some items, I know enough to ask first.

I have a few of the Honda relays from my old IS, and an additional wire harness I had bought, so is there any reason that I could not just use the Honda one?

For now, I'll just hook it up to the accessory port as the power trigger. Supplying power for my LED volt meter and a dual power socket w/ dual USB port (power for a cell charging, and running my GPS).

In future, I'll use the same relay to trigger the main power to an 8-10 fuse block. Power the same items, and add on a few more, like my heater grips, vest(s), running lights.

I don't know if relays have AMP through put limits. I figure it might run max 30 AMP (or at least that was the fuse I was going to use to the fuse block).

Would running a volt meter through a relay give a different reading, than wired directly onto the battery?

[sdv003]

Relays do have Amp limitations.  The specs should tell you the details.  The volt meter should not be impacted.  You'll have about the same voltage on either side of the relay, so if it works connected to the battery, it should work on a relay switched circuit.

[hubcapsc]

-Mike

[Earl43P]

Since you plan to add heated accessories (grips), you may want a high quality, higher amperage relay than your typical 20/30A. I like to use the ones for radiator fans like this one

http://www.amazon.com/Beck-Arnley-203-0168-Engine-Cooling/dp/B002IEN490/ref=sr_1_130?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1464952742&sr=1-130&keywords=fan+relay

Sticker shock isn't too bad.
You may also note that a relay like this one uses wider terminals (3/8" vs. 1/4") for the load. So you'd have to upsize the spade terminals and relay socket. Larger gage wire means less voltage drop.  

If you were not using a heated accessory, the typical relay would suffice for sure. Unless you add halogen driving lights or other higher draw to the amperage load.

My 93 came with a PO added headlamp harness, one relay for low, one for high, tucked just forward of the RH map case. (Same bike you sold me the trans cover for) It would eat chinese relays every few months, usually the low beam's (I ride in the rain a lot; it's surprising how much water gets IN the inner fairing areas). Finally figured out the relays were getting moisture intrusion and corroding internally. I bought these kind of good relays, which were also SEALED and solved that problem. I also oriented them prongs facing down (instead of just laying in there) so that the wires don't wick water to the terminals.

Just things to think about, since you are "planning".

[jim@98valkyrie.com]

When you get ready for a fuse block...... I have the Eastern Beaver 8 slot. 2 powered and 6 switched circuits. No affiliation nor paid endorsement, blah blah.... just a satisfied customer

[gordonv]

Thanks for the replies, it basically answers the questions I needed.

A thought on getting better relays, might be the way to go.

I already have heated grips, wire hot. Afraid of leaving it turned on, or me/someone turning it on when not ridding.

I have a wired in vest, no worry there, since you walk off with the controller, nothing left turned on when not there.