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DeShazo
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« on: June 15, 2016, 07:11:04 PM » |
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I noticed that my exhaust pipe going to the number 6 cylinder, back left, it was damp on the inside. After further investigation I found that the plug looked brand new. I had changed them a few thousand miles ago but this one looked like the day I put it in. I tested the plug by pulling it out, plugging it into the wire, placing it next to the block and hitting the ignition. It sparked but was very weak and yellow. I also checked by cranking the bike with them all plugged in and pulled the plug wires off one at a time. You could here an audible change with every plug except that one. I thought maybe I got a bad plug so I bought another new one, still weak. So, I figured there was a slim possibility that I had gotten 2 bad plugs since they came from the same store, I pulled the one next to it that I knew was working correctly. Still nothing. I then pulled the ignition coil off for that cylinder. This coil fires number 5 and 6 cylinders. I notice when I shine my flashlight down in the hole that the number 6 coil wire plugs into, the little pin that pokes into the coil wire, it was more of a rusty looking nub instead of a pointy pin like the one that fires number 5. Problem solved! Coil is bad. I order a new coil, it comes in today. I put it on, start it and still nothing on number 6. I check again against the block and by pulling the wire off with it running. No change what so ever. I think to myself that it has to be the wire gone bad from the coil arcing it with the nub. So to test it, I swap the wires at the coil and plugs on the 5 and 6 cylinders. The supposed bad coil wire that was on number 6 is now on number 5 and vice a versa.I crank it and number 5 is working like it should with the supposed bad wire, wire is not the problem. Wire isn't the problem, coil is new, plug is ruled out, what the hell? I get my digital thermometer and shoot all 6 cylinders, 210, 220, 230, 210 216, and good old number 6, 115 degrees. I will do a compression test tomorrow. Any ideas? My bike has been desmogged, vacuum line is on number 6. I also replaced the petcock last week when it all started because it failed the vacuum test. I don't know if this was related but I'm telling it in case it sparks some idea. Anyway, thats my story. Any help or ideas would be appreciated.
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gordonv
Member
Posts: 5762
VRCC # 31419
Richmond BC
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« Reply #1 on: June 15, 2016, 07:33:04 PM » |
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Air intake runner? Ether or similar product sprayed on that one, see if there is outside air drawn in.
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1999 Black with custom paint IS   |
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DeShazo
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« Reply #2 on: June 15, 2016, 07:48:07 PM » |
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I replaced all 6 intake o-rings yesterday while I was waiting on the coil to come in. I admit I didn't check them for cracks. I will try the starter fluid/ether in the morning so I dont wake my neighbors.
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Bighead
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« Reply #3 on: June 15, 2016, 08:26:35 PM » |
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Air intake runner? Ether or similar product sprayed on that one, see if there is outside air drawn in.
This shouldn't be the cause of a weak spark. |
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1997 Bumble Bee
1999 Interstate (sold)
2016 Wing
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gordonv
Member
Posts: 5762
VRCC # 31419
Richmond BC
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« Reply #4 on: June 15, 2016, 09:44:07 PM » |
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I would agree, BUT, he's already moved the plug. Changed the wire from the same coil.
What other item do you think could be causing this, than the lack of fuel? My first thought was air coming in, instead of fuel. The ether will confirm/remove that thought.
Next would be somehow to get fuel into that one cylinder only. Remove the rubber boot, and introduce fuel. I've ran a old VW motor by pouring fuel into the carb, but a single carb fueling 4 cylinders, would be different than a single carb/cylinder.
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1999 Black with custom paint IS |
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Michvalk
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« Reply #5 on: June 16, 2016, 05:35:17 AM » |
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Could have a plugged jet.  |
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DeShazo
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« Reply #6 on: June 16, 2016, 11:32:00 AM » |
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Update... It is firing on number 6, there is just no combustion taking place. Compression is good. Trying to figure out how to check a single carb without removing the whole rack of them.
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #7 on: June 16, 2016, 11:57:53 AM » |
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Update... It is firing on number 6, there is just no combustion taking place. Compression is good. Trying to figure out how to check a single carb without removing the whole rack of them.
i think some guys have said they removed the float bowl with carbs on the bike. I don't know if I could though. My fat fingers and lack of dexterity would be against me. |
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DeShazo
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« Reply #8 on: June 16, 2016, 07:00:03 PM » |
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Final update. I was able to remove the float bowl with it on the bike. The float valve was stuck. I replaced it and I'm now back riding that beautiful beast.  |
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Hook#3287
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« Reply #10 on: June 17, 2016, 04:07:49 AM » |
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Pull the carbs and replace the float valves. You're playing the Russian roulette hydro lock game.  |
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Steel cowboy
Member
Posts: 1284
Moving ahead so life won’t pass me by.
Spring Hill, Fl.
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« Reply #11 on: June 17, 2016, 06:04:10 AM » |
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Hi De, when you "unstuck" your float valve was the little plunger still springing back?? Was the rubber tip still on the valve?. I belive most hydro locks accrue with #6 carb because of the kick stand lean. I would replace all float valves. URL=http://s1200.photobucket.com/user/2001valkyrie/media/image_zps9anl2we8.jpeg.html]  [/URL] |
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« Last Edit: June 17, 2016, 06:06:40 AM by Steel cowboy »
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2001 black interstate
2003 Jupiter Orange wing
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