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Author Topic: Starter Help...  (Read 1624 times)
hubcapsc
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Posts: 16781


upstate

South Carolina


« on: September 25, 2009, 11:38:53 AM »


So like I took my starter off... I couldn't get the nut off to get the starter wire off, so I disconnected the
starter wire from where it hooks on near the battery, and when I had the starter in my hands I
tried to turn the nut with a socket wrench... the whole post spins, the nut won't move... this
seems like it is probably bad. I reckon I should have rounded up some kind of low profile #10 to
hold the lower nut before I tried to turn the upper nut...



Anywho... that's what I'm asking... the threaded post spins all the way around... have I severed the
internal connection? Or is it normal, and I can just go find/buy a low profile (I think they call them
"ignition wrenches"  crazy2 ) 10 and keep working?

-Mike
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Ricky-D
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Posts: 5031


South Carolina midlands


« Reply #1 on: September 25, 2009, 11:52:19 AM »

My manual says that is the terminal bolt and it is a square headed bolt that holds the connector for the brushes. It doesn't look like it is something that would damage by turning the nut.

I think the double nut is there to prevent cracking or damaging the insulator(s) and grounding out the current.

you can see it plainly in the manual.

***
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
KY,Dave (AKA Misunderstood)
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Posts: 4146


Specimen #30838 DS #0233

Williamsburg, KY


« Reply #2 on: September 25, 2009, 12:50:00 PM »

According to the manual as I read it you can test it to see if you have broke any connection. There SHOULD be continuity between the brush and that bolt and there SHOULD NOT be continuity between that bolt and the casing. If I read that wrong, please someone correct me. Dave
« Last Edit: September 25, 2009, 12:53:35 PM by Misunderstood » Logged
hubcapsc
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Posts: 16781


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #3 on: September 25, 2009, 01:11:38 PM »

According to the manual as I read it you can test it to see if you have broke any connection. There SHOULD be continuity between the brush and that bolt and there SHOULD NOT be continuity between that bolt and the casing. If I read that wrong, please someone correct me. Dave

Awesome... that looks easy to test... I'm going to run down to NAPA while they're still open
and get a thin enough wrench to hold the locknut and hopefully find something that will pass for a
couple of these insulator washers... they're kind of, uh, brittle  Embarrassed

-Mike
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KY,Dave (AKA Misunderstood)
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Posts: 4146


Specimen #30838 DS #0233

Williamsburg, KY


« Reply #4 on: September 25, 2009, 01:18:56 PM »

sent you an email with a pic of the starter and that bolt. Hope it comes thru.
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hubcapsc
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Posts: 16781


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #5 on: September 25, 2009, 04:59:46 PM »


The Suzuki of Seneca guys fixed me up with some more insulator washers...

There's no such thing as a low profile wrench around here though...

I'll run my angle grinder on a wrench in the morning until its profile becomes low  cooldude

-Mike
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hubcapsc
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Posts: 16781


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #6 on: September 26, 2009, 08:09:35 AM »

My angle grinder, which normally has a random orbital wood sander head on it, almost ground
my wrench down to a "no profile wrench" in just seconds with a metal sanding head on it  cooldude

The locknut was no match for the right tool, came right off.

The continuity tests show everything is OK, and the inside of the starter looks good...

I crushed the edges of the fiber insulating washers while I was futzing around yesterday, but
now that everything's off, I can see that they are unmolested where it counts... plus I have
the new ones from Suzuki of Seneca...

Thanks for all the help everyone...

Now, to paint the starter...

-Mike "don't polish your starter, it will just get rusty"
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Thunderbolt
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Posts: 3725


Worthington Springs FL.


« Reply #7 on: September 26, 2009, 02:40:18 PM »

or was it to do the paint on it?  Mike you have way too much time on your hands.  You could have been riding.............
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hubcapsc
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Posts: 16781


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #8 on: September 26, 2009, 03:25:55 PM »

or was it to do the paint on it?  Mike you have way too much time on your hands.  You could have been riding.............


Gotta keep 'em up sometimes or we'll have nothing to ride...

Yep, took the starter off to paint it... it made my bike look like a junk yard reject... hope the paint takes,
I cleaned the snot out of the starter and used acetone to clean off any possible snot residue... polished
up the aluminum parts, they were pretty ratty too...

   

I had to take the rear end apart to fix this:

 

It's not that big of a deal to take the swingarm off too after you got all that other stuff off...
I'm glad I've looked at my bearings...

I've got a front tire to put on too...  Smiley

-Mike
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KY,Dave (AKA Misunderstood)
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Posts: 4146


Specimen #30838 DS #0233

Williamsburg, KY


« Reply #9 on: September 26, 2009, 06:55:40 PM »

Lookin good Mike !!  cooldude
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hubcapsc
Member
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Posts: 16781


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #10 on: September 28, 2009, 07:56:25 PM »


I did some more tests with the multimeter, and as I move the leads from place to place on
the case and from brush to brush, sometimes there is continuity...

Anyhow, felt compelled to look a little deeper... 

 

Those plastic parts didn't take kindly to me spinning the terminal post around.
The little part, #6, is easy to order... the other part is the one I grayed out in the picture...
It has no part number, I don't think it can be ordered...

 

If anyone knows that it can be ordered, please tell me how/where...

If anyone has a dead starter and wants to part with the unorderable part... let me know  cooldude

Thanks...

Pinwall has some decent looking starters for $99, and some less decent looking ones for $65...
sure would be nice to find that plastic part...

-Mike
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