Rear Brake Pad Replacement

[ColoValk]

Changed out the rear brake pads and things went well.  Thanks to all who provide their knowledge for this board.

I was trying to get the rubber boot (#11) back over the pin, but am not having much luck.  Any ideas as to how to get this back on any easier?

Thanks,
Chris

[Joe Hummer]

The only rubber boot I know of is the one that covers the bleed screw. 

What bike?

Joe

[ColoValk]

Valkyrie Tourer.  If you do a search for Rear Brake pad replacement, you will see a diagram for the entire assembly. It is #11 that goes over (I think) bolt #12

[Rattlebars]

[scooter]

#11 is the pin.  The rubber boot that goes over #11 is #10 and that is mounted into the caliper.  Is your question about rubber boot #12? 

[hubcapsc]

I just did mine, while I had everything apart. I noticed it was trivial to hook the caliper back to the
caliper bracket with the pads off, and hard hook them back together with the pads in the caliper.




-Mike

[ColoValk]

Sorry, It was #10 that gors over #11. With a lot of patience I was finally able to work it back in and through where it belongs.

Thanks for all the help!

Chris

[danholmes]

I made this same mistake and it was just as hard to explain to the experts here. Mainly because they "don't" normally remove that front rubber covered shoulder screw. The only thing pulled is the rear slotted head shaft going through the pads. Remove only the rear shaft and the pads pull right out towards the rear as they hook on the front. You never have to pull the assy off the caliper. Doing many car brake jobs had me thinking I had to pull both as you did. Keep this in mind next time and you'll cut your labor better than in half. I do the rears a lot as I have a bad habit of over using the foot brake while splitting lanes in CA traffic.

[hubcapsc]

You never have to pull the assy off the caliper.

I cleaned the part of my pistons that were exposed until they sparkled, so that I wouldn't be pushing the dirty
pistons back up into the calipers when I put on the new (thus thicker) pads. I had the assembly off the bike
anyhow, so I used compressed air to blow the pistons further out... the seals don't start right at the edge
of the caliper piston holes, look how far back the dirt goes beyond just the part of the piston that is
exposed:

 

After I saw this, I popped the pistons the rest of the way out and cleaned them, lubed them with
brake fluid and pushed them back in.

I'm pretty sure that I'm going to do all this every time I change brake pads from now on.

-Mike

[danholmes]

Got it Mike...
Never hurts to be thorough. 

[Brewmaster]

DanHolmes is correct. The caliper does NOT need to be removed from the bike at all. Just remove the one bolt holding in the back of the pads, slide the old pads out, squeeze back the calipers using a screwdriver and slide the new pads in. The hardest part is getting the front caliper pushed back in. All in all it's a simple 15 minute job. Just finished mine this afternoon and took the bike for a tour.

Brewmaster