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Author Topic: Baker air wings  (Read 948 times)
robin
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Hardwick NJ


« on: July 07, 2016, 03:41:23 AM »

What did you do to put extra bracing for them on an Interstate to keep them from cracking the pods?

     Robin
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mustang071965
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those that dare, Succeed.

monticello Ar


« Reply #1 on: July 07, 2016, 07:15:13 AM »

take the pods off. and break them down. then take the center half that holds the air wings and reinforce then with fiberglass in the inside where the wings set. make sure you fiberglass all the area including the mounting holes. you can drill out the fiberglass from the holes after it is set. the put all back togeather. did mine that way. no wiggle even during high speed and high winds. no crack,s ( scuff the underside good with sandpaper ) that way it will hold better. also put the first layer of fiberglass on in a right to left direction then the second layer on top of the first in a front to rear direction. the criss cross pattern makes for a strong backing. do both layers at the same time and let dry for 24 hrs.
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Steve K (IA)
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Cedar Rapids, Iowa


« Reply #2 on: July 07, 2016, 09:18:54 AM »

take the pods off. and break them down. then take the center half that holds the air wings and reinforce then with fiberglass in the inside where the wings set. make sure you fiberglass all the area including the mounting holes. you can drill out the fiberglass from the holes after it is set. the put all back togeather. did mine that way. no wiggle even during high speed and high winds. no crack,s ( scuff the underside good with sandpaper ) that way it will hold better. also put the first layer of fiberglass on in a right to left direction then the second layer on top of the first in a front to rear direction. the criss cross pattern makes for a strong backing. do both layers at the same time and let dry for 24 hrs.

Mustang,  can you tell us more?  I've had the Bakers on my I/S since 2001 with just a few very small cracks, but think it would be a good idea to reinforce that area.

Talking about fiberglass, can you get a "kit" to do this so that a person doesn't have to invest a large sum of $ to do what I would call a small job?  Obviously, I've never worked with fiberglass.

Thanks
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mustang071965
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those that dare, Succeed.

monticello Ar


« Reply #3 on: July 07, 2016, 10:09:07 AM »

yes Steve. all that is needed is a fibeglass repair kit ( walmart ) it comes with the rosin, hardener and a roll of fiberglass.  cost around $20 for the kit.  working with fiberglass is easy. 2 important things before applying. scuff the area to be worked on with sandpaper and then clean it with alcohol. also get a pack of those cheap paint brushes in the hobby section of walmart. cut your fiberglass into strips ( about 1 inch wide ) and long enough to go as far past the mounting holes as you can go. follow the instructions on the kit for mixing the hardener and rosin. take one of the little brushes and spread some of the rosin onto the area to be covered. then take your strips of glass and lay one across the area right next to the end ( dont worry if you have a small amount hanging over the edge. that will be sanded off after its dried ) work the glass into the rosin with the brush. apply more rosin over the top of the glass and spread. when adding the next glass over lap it with the first and work it in adding more rosin to the top of it, spread it out. now lay your second layer of glass over the first. the second layer will be laid long ways across the first. work it in just like the first layer. now remember as your working the rosin is hardening,  normal working time with rosin is about 10-15 min. once you have the second layer down and smoothed. take your brush and apply some of the left over rosin aound the edges of the glass it will help the lay down as it dries. in about 24 hrs you can now drill out the fiberglass from the mounting holes ( drill bit just under the size of the hole ) take your sandpaper and sand over the fiberglass just to get rid of the outer sticky feel. then sand down any excess that might have over hung on the front. now put the pods back together and your wings wont shake and crack the pods. mine have been this way for 8 years now and still holding.
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BonS
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Blue Springs, MO


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« Reply #4 on: July 07, 2016, 10:46:44 AM »

This is what I did. It's been several years and no cracks in the pods. One drilled hole, one tie wrap per pod. I didn't even have to take off the pods to do it. The tie wrap takes away all the twisting and torquing that otherwise goes to the screw mounts and causes the cracking. The tie wrap is truly invisible otherwise.

The tie wrap comes through the hole from inside the pod, wraps around the chrome air wing support and then back down through the same hole. It's pulled tight from inside the vent hole of the pod. Done.



« Last Edit: July 07, 2016, 10:48:47 AM by BonS » Logged

Steve K (IA)
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Cedar Rapids, Iowa


« Reply #5 on: July 07, 2016, 01:20:23 PM »

Mustang and Bon,  both are great ideas.  Looks like a late fall/winter project.

I have had both Valks down for rear end maintenance these past 2 weeks.  And have a new raked T Tree coming and my wife expects me to change that out before a ride to the UP in a week and a half.  I think that won't happen before we leave.   Evil
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robin
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Get on it and RIDE!!

Hardwick NJ


« Reply #6 on: July 07, 2016, 01:23:09 PM »

Mustang and Bon,  both are great ideas.  Looks like a late fall/winter project.

I have had both Valks down for rear end maintenance these past 2 weeks.  And have a new raked T Tree coming and my wife expects me to change that out before a ride to the UP in a week and a half.  I think that won't happen before we leave.   Evil

No way i am retired and have plenty of time to do this it will be done shortly cooldude
I have another one to ride while doing this cooldude
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