hard cold start

[rbert]

Does anyone else have a hard time starting their Valk the first time after being stored for the winter. I spin it with full choke and it takes a very long time to fire, sometimes even runs the battery out. It will finally fire and then only run at idle with full choke until it warms up. Once it is fired up once in the spring it starts easily  after that and runs perfect.

[WintrSol]

Sounds like the carbs went dry, and it's taking some time for them to fill, once vacuum reaches the petcock. Not sure how you can address this, short of pulling the vacuum line from the petcock to the carb, and using a vacuum source to prime them.

In case you don't know, the starter should only be run for about 30 seconds at a time, with a couple minute rest in between, or it could overheat. Once hot, it will work harder, draining the battery faster. Also, you can use jumpers to another vehicle with a larger battery (like a car or truck), provided that engine is not running.

[gordonv]

Sounds like the carbs went dry, and it's taking some time for them to fill, once vacuum reaches the petcock. Not sure how you can address this, short of pulling the vacuum line from the petcock to the carb, and using a vacuum source to prime them.

My Shadow was like this too, but an electric fuel pump. Would always have to jump the relay and run the pump to prime the carbs.

I would suggest in your case you do the same with a vacuum draw on the petcock alone, and prime the carbs.

You may also have a minor vacuum leak to the petcock, so the diaphragm isn't opening fully, and therefore it takes longer to get fuel to the carbs. The spare battery is another source to run longer to prime.

My bike is very strange. No chock or throttle and it starts. Warm/cold/sitting for weeks. I can start it, and without throttle, drive off.

[Steel cowboy]

I assume you are aware that the petcock on our Valkyries needs a vacuum to open and let fuel flow to the carb's. If the diaphragm in the petcock is old it may not allow sufficient amount of fuel to flow, just like on our 2 cycle weed wackers the diaphragm with stiffen up or dry out. some guys have had fuel leaking from the fuel rails until the o rings become flexible and stop leaking. The same probably is accuring with the diaphragm in your petcock it starts working after the vacuum has been applied for a while. I would rebuild the petcock a fairly easy

[longrider]

I agree with the other posts.  When I have had to store for the winter I use my mityvac to pull a vacuum on the petcock    It is connected to the intake on #6 which is the rear left side.  I hold the vacuum for a minute or so to fill the carbs. Install the vac line.  Full choke and just a hair of throttle.

[BobB]

I agree with the other posts.  When I have had to store for the winter I use my mityvac to pull a vacuum on the petcock    It is connected to the intake on #6 which is the rear left side.  I hold the vacuum for a minute or so to fill the carbs. Install the vac line.  Full choke and just a hair of throttle.

I agree with these suggestions, but if you open the petcock in advance, I also recommend that you initially just tap the starter switch and see if the engine turns over normally.  That can prevent damage should you be hydrolocked...

[Beardo]

Do you drain the carbs for storage?  I just bought my bike last year, the previous 1 owner said he drained his carbs 1 winter and had a problem similar to yours. Every winter since then, it gets Stabil added and run for a bit then left like that all winter. That's what I did this winter, and it fired right up just like any cold start, just needed the choke for 30 seconds.  Also I make sure my last tank or 2 are non ethanol gas.

I was a little worried about leaving the carbs full all winter, but did a lot of searching on here, and it sounds like that's what a lot of people do.  My bike hasn't had any carb issues, they've never been off the bike. The first push of the starter was a short push to make sure there is no hydro lock.   

[WintrSol]

One of the advantages of a belly tank, I guess; turn the key, fuel pump on, carbs primed before even touching the start button. No chance of hydrolock, either, as it also has an electric fuel valve. I do treat the gas for winter, Seafoam in my case; after treating, I drain the carbs and pour it back into the tank, then turn the key to get treated gas into them. Granted, I've only done this once, since I'm a new owner, but so far ...

[rbert]

Thanks for the info. I think since it seems to be getting worse each year, I think I need to rebuild the petcock. I have been treating the gas with stabil and leaving the carbs full when I park it. Since it starts and runs perfect after the first time, I believe the carbs are clean. They have never been taken apart. I also have an electric shutoff valve in the line so I don't get hydro lock. If the petcock is getting weak, does that create a risk of leaving me stranded sometime?

[John Schmidt]

Yes it does, it still needs to work even with an elec. shutoff. Since you have the elec. shutoff, my suggestion would be to convert your OEM petcock to manual and let the elec. unit do the work. It also means one less vacuum line to start leaking sometime down the road. When you say "full choke" are you simply moving the lever to the point it starts to give resistance? If so, then you're not giving it any choke at all....it's at that point the choke actually begins to engage. You can watch the action on top of the carbs, if nothing moves while using the choke....then you're not really engaging it. As for not firing until you run the battery out, something's amiss there. I've rebuilt carbs and upon reinstall they're totally empty, yet with that the bike still fires up long before the battery runs down.

[rbert]

Yes I was thinking of a manual pet rooster. What make and where would I get one? Does the manual petcock still have a reserve? If so can I still use the factory chrome knob to control it?

[rbert]

Also to answer your question about the choke, yes it is fully on. As far as the lever can go. For quite a while after it starts, it will only idle on full choke. If I let off the choke or touch the throttle, it will quit.

[Bone]

rbert can you remember to turn off your petcock when you shut down the bike ? Hydrolock can happen easily with a constant fuel flow.

My OEM petcock needed a rebuild so I ordered a cover set from Honda. While waiting a method for converting the stock petcock to manual was posted I didn't hesitate. I had run manual petcocks most of my riding life. My notes are in the garage I believe that was 6 years ago still running manual and haven't forgot to turn off the petcock yet.

[John Schmidt]

Yes I was thinking of a manual pet rooster. What make and where would I get one? Does the manual petcock still have a reserve? If so can I still use the factory chrome knob to control it?

You can continue to use the OEM petcock if you convert it to manual and the control knob will still work to shut it off. Probably the best method to convert it is to remove ALL the guts first. Then look at the center section, it has a grove on each side....one side is smaller and encircles the center hole. The other side has a grove that goes around the entire outer area, you'll see what I'm talking about if you take it apart. Get a good fitting viton o-ring for each grove and reassemble the petcock. Be sure to block off the vacuum port and the drip port on the petcock, leaving only the fuel line open. Now you have a fully manual petcock that can be controlled off/on with the factory knob. I have pictures somewhere if interested.

As for an aftermarket petcock, many use a Pingel #1311-CH....which is a chrome manual unit. Not cheap and has a lower reserve available. Good luck on whichever route you take. 

[rbert]

Thank you very much, I think I will try to convert the original. May need more help, we'll see.

[gordonv]

FYI a saved link. vacuum to manual petcock conversion.

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,18092.0.html

[rbert]

ThankYou very much!!