Rear Fender

[clanky]

I love my Valk!  There is one area, however, that is of poor design.  The rear fender.  Mine is fatigue cracked on both sides and I added an aluminum bar behind the fender and attached using pop rivets.  The sheet metal thickness is so thin that just supporting the tail light fixture broke the fender.  Is there anybody out there that makes a replacement fender with a thicker gauge sheet metal?
Thanks for any assistance!

[Jess from VA]

They are all rotting away.

There is no heavy gauge replacement.

I just picked up a low mile nearly new looking upper/lower.  No use yet, but both my interstate's rear fenders are deteriorating.

Had my front off one bike.  Cleaned it with engine degreaser and wire brush, and pulled all the rubbers before they came off and started flapping in there.

I think it might be a good idea, if you have them off, to clean them well, then spray the insides liberally with undercoat (or some such).  There is always the argument that this just traps water between the fender and coating and makes it worse.  I dunno. 

[Paladin528]

I suggest removing both parts of the fender and cleaning or soda blasting the inside of the fender clean. Then apply a stone guard or rhino lining to the inside of the fender.  While it does not add strength it will last a lot longer

[pancho]

I love my Valk!  There is one area, however, that is of poor design.  The rear fender.  Mine is fatigue cracked on both sides and I added an aluminum bar behind the fender and attached using pop rivets.  The sheet metal thickness is so thin that just supporting the tail light fixture broke the fender.  Is there anybody out there that makes a replacement fender with a thicker gauge sheet metal?
Thanks for any assistance!

I wonder where the fatigue cracks showed up clanky??  Upper or lower fender, radiating from the bolt holes  or what? pictures?

[Firefighter]

First I have known of this. I only have 60,000 miles on my IS, but it is 16 years old like others. I sprayed undercoating under my gas tank and front fender years ago to try and stop road noise, works to some degree.

Are we talking rust, corrosion, or weak tearing metal?

[heavyd]

Not sure if you have the same issue, but one of my 97's has problem #2 on this list.

http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/Known%20Valkyrie%20Problems.htm

Finding a rear fender for me has proven to be only slightly cheaper than buying another bike. With my Beetle bags, the clearance is so tight that once the fender sagged it let the tail lights rub through the paint on the bags. Going to get the bags repainted, but need to fix the fender first. Might end up swapping the fender from my other one with tourer bags and getting them both repainted, would still be cheaper than buying another fender.

[clanky]

The fender did NOT rust.  It still has no rust.  It is metal fatigue cracking.  Ever since I added the aluminum support strips behind the sheet metal the crack lengthening has stopped.  Just wasn't sure if anybody out there offered a thicker fender.  I realize I could go to a custom body shop and they would be able to do it but I could probably buy 1/2 of another bike for what they would charge me to copy the rear lower fender.

[Fazer]

Could one lay up fiberglass and epoxy inside the fender to strengthen?

[Ricky-D]

There necessarily has to be some outside influence regarding your fender problem. There just isn't enough vibration with the Valkyrie to cause and stress cracking on the rear fender.

***

[pancho]

Well,, I wonder, how many miles does it take before the bulging causes cracking problems.  What do the guys that have 250000 done about this?? do you just ride around with a failing rear fender??  I think internal bracing is a good fix, but I don't see any way to do it without drilling holes and having exposed fasteners.

[heavyd]

There necessarily has to be some outside influence regarding your fender problem. There just isn't enough vibration with the Valkyrie to cause and stress cracking on the rear fender.

***

I'm not sure I agree with that Ricky, I have the same problem with one of my fenders and the only outside influence would be the licence plate holder that has a chrome trim ring adding an extra .25 lb. Once upon a time there was a documented problem with this as I linked in my earlier reply, and if you look at the fenders on ebay there are a few of them that have the same problem. I don't think it is so much vibration as the weight of the licence plate bracket, tail lights, etc combined with potholes and gravity.

[pancho]

I have it happening,,,, no cracks yet.  I have the additional weight of the chrome fender trim, and there had been a large lighted  license plate mount when I got the bike. I also  have dents on each side of the turn signal mount from some one assisting picking up my bike when it slipped out from under me in the grass a couple of years ago.    SO, I have some body and paint work to do on that part, my only idea is a brace like clanky did, as I don't see anything bonding to the inside that would have the required stiffness.  Maybe a piece of stiff tubing if there is the clearance, but will still have to drill some holes.

[Paladin528]

Perhaps this issue does not present on the I/S due to the absence of the Tail light on the I/S fender.  I have a tourer fender installed on my I/S but it has only been there for a short time. Did not pay alot for it and it is in excellent shape.
My only caveat would be to ensure that all 3 support bolts for the rear fender are tight.  if the one on the top isn't tight then the fender WILL eventually crack.

[heavyd]

I'll have to check clearances, but since I am expecting to get mine painted anyway, I may try to see if I can get a relatively thin strip a steel bent to the right shape and welded to the inside of the fender to help it hold the right shape. Spend the money on that to hold my current fender in the right shape instead of buying a new fender that might eventually have the same problem.

[dago mooserider]

my 98 has cracked paint and the metal fatigue you describe. I think it's from repeated trips to triple digits and cruising above 80 and wind on the signals/license plate. Only 40,000 miles on mine.

[pancho]

I knew I had a potential problem coming on, but I didn't know that it was a recognized weak point until this post. I think I will look into using some 3/8 stainless rod if I still have some left from making the seat rail, when it comes time. I am thinking of polishing and forming the bar to fit, drilling and tapping the rod in three places, and mounting it on the outside of the fender with washers and bolts from the inside,,, just got to look into it and see if it will work....  Went for a 100-120 mile ride today, and now think about every jolt and hard bump trying to flex that piece!

[signart]

I'll have to check clearances, but since I am expecting to get mine painted anyway, I may try to see if I can get a relatively thin strip a steel bent to the right shape and welded to the inside of the fender to help it hold the right shape. Spend the money on that to hold my current fender in the right shape instead of buying a new fender that might eventually have the same problem.

This is a good solution, but don't weld it. That will make more repair work and rust. Use panel adhesive. You could make a flange on the outside edge of the panel that would stiffen and serve as a no bolt brace.http://3mcollision.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/3/8/38315_37.5ml_panel_bonding_adhesive.jpg

[Bugslayer]

My original '97 rear fender rusted completely through just below the license plate.  I found a used in good condition and the right color for 50 bucks.