4 way flasher - hazars signal

[Memor86]

I was looking at some diagrams at rattlebars site.

Why can we use the stock flasher and jump both side signals to control both at the same time? Only thing comes in mind is that the power draw will be double than what it as made for but I have seen a lot people wiring hazarda this way

Do you know any other reason why not do it that way?

[bentwrench]

I built a 4way using a separate flasher and a special dual 87 relay from delcity.The dual 87 relay will keep the r and l sides separated or else your turn signals will fire all 4 lamps.

[WintrSol]

Two things to think about.

First, when you activate the turn signal, the running light on that side turns off, I assume to make the flash more visible. As many other bikes don't do this, I don't think it's necessary.

Second, unless you install the diode mod, usually done when replacing the signal bulbs with LED, the signal indicator will not flash in 4-way mode. Not a problem for me, as I can't see mine anyway, because my gauges block two of the three indicators, and I moved the neutral lamp to the center.

You do need a double-pole switch (or relay), so the left and right are isolated until the switch is activated.

[bentwrench]

These relays work really well,but they're getting a little expensive.
http://www.delcity.net/store/Normally-Open-Relay-w:-Dual-87-Contacts/p_791795

[RonW]

First, when you activate the turn signal, the running light on that side turns off, I assume to make the flash more visible. As many other bikes don't do this, I don't think it's necessary.

The running light in the activated signal shuts off so there's dark moments between each blink and like said causing the blinks to be more distinctive. But also, so you won't have both hi-filament and low filament lit up in the same bulb at the same time generating excessive heat, bad for the socket, etc. Understood rear signals are single filament bulbs.

For hazard lights which are left on longer, it's even more important that running lights (low filament) be disabled during hazard light mode for heat related issues. This can be done by a relay spliced into the running light's +12 wire at a point before it is soldered to the running light switch. The running light switch, itself, works something like the graphic below ....


The running light switch is ganged to the turn signal switch.



The running light switch consists of a movable half and a stationary half (like the start button). But note the running lights' wiring on the stationary half. Right is left, left is right and so on.



When you flip the turn signal lever in the left direction, the movable half of the running light switch also moves to the left direction tethered as they are to each other. The left turn signal is activated and starts to blink as expected. But becuz the running light switch is wired opposite in respect to the left and right signals, in the same motion, electricity is disconnected to the left running light. The end result is that the low filament (running light) shuts off for the duration that the hi-filament is flashing in the activated side's signal.



Side view below.

[WintrSol]

I accept the running light is turned off so the flash is more distinct but, since most other bikes I've had with running lights in the front signals don't do this, I don't buy the excess heat argument. My Suzuki Intruder/Boulevard had slightly smaller signal housings, made of similar materials, and didn't extinguish the running lamp, and I never heard of anyone having a heat problems with them in 30 years of production. Mine also had a hazard switch that bypassed the turn signal switch.

[h13man]

Doing it the Rattlebar way makes a different cicuit that won't mess up your stock circuit in event something goes wrong.

[falconbrother]

When I bought my IS it was already set up for PGR missions so it has two different sets of flashing LEDs.  I really don't want to be messing around with the factory wiring. 

[Robert]

SM-3 unit is designed as a plug-in replacement for most Honda and some newer European bikes.

signalMinder uses a computer chip to cancel the turn signals. There are three selectable timeouts; 10, 20, 30 seconds.

RUNNING LIGHT OPTION:
By attaching two quick-connect wires included, you can convert ALL FOUR turn signals to running lights and establish a dual-channel system on your bike.

Special Note! For 2009 and up Kawasaki models that have onboard computer diagnostics, or if you have Alarm system that activates turn signals, please select SN-4D harness shown below.

Using the DIP Switch #1, you can keep them off and still have the dual-channel system.

With the dual-channel system, when you activate the RIGHT turn signal three times in succession, you get 4-way hazard flash function.

NEW FEATURE (d17EBxx code)

Built-in RUN-TURN-BRAKE functions
No need to buy other turn signal conversion product. You get all the features of RUN-TURN-BRAKE and automatic signal canelling!

If you hook-up the 12 volt supply from the brakes to the signalMinder brake input:

BRAKE FLASH OPTION will flash the turn signal lamps every time you apply brakes. A short 2 second flash pattern begins with quick flashes then slows down to stay on solid.

BRAKE OVERRIDE OPTION suspends the time-out feature until the brakes are released. This allows continued flashing for those times when you are waiting at the signals to make a turn and do not want the time-out to cancel the flashing.

MORE FEATURES

HANDLE BAR RETURN SPRINGS:
If above options are hooked-up, these tiny return springs can be inserted in the handlebar switch to force it back to neutral automatically. You don't have use the Push-to-cancel of the handlebar switch.

Above options are not required to be installed, but utilizing them allows fully automatic turn signal cancellation. We highly recommend hooking them up.

Parade or alternating flash is possible in programing

Please Note! NONE of the wires on the bike have to be cut. The kit includes Scotchlok brand of Insulation Displacement Connectors (IDC) to tap into existing wires.

The last thing you need is to worry about canceling the turn signals! Use all of the built-in options of thesignalMinder and enjoy the ride.

https://kisantech.com/mag/pfin/sm-3.html        $109.95

[saddlesore]

http://www.kriss.com/hazardflasher.php

[Memor86]

this all went off topic...

to get back to the main thread.. there is already a flasher on the bike, why not use it to run both sides signals at the same time, just like the external flasher is wired on the diagram by rattlebars??

[rhinor61]

You must keep your blinker flasher circuit separate when adding the 4-way flasher.

Rattlebar points this out, adding a 4-way setup with its own flasher that uses a DPDT switch or diodes.
thus keeping the left side and right side circuits isolated/separate.

cars used this same set up.
FLasher for turns
Flasher for 4-ways

John

[WintrSol]

It depends on the rating of the flasher; Suzuki uses one flasher for both, but using a separate one would keep from burning up the main flasher.

[rhinor61]

Keep this in mind.
Rattlebar is using a separate flasher for the 4 ways, you can wire it to provide constant power from the battery, so when the DPDT switch is activated. You have your 4 ways.

The Valkyrie blinkers ONLY work with the key ON.

I followed rattlebars research/design, it works very well.. 

thanks.

[Memor86]

ok, i've already bought the diodes so im going to get the flasher and complete the mod thanks guys.