How to test my alternator voltage

[pocket aces]

I have this meter. Don't know how to use it. Help please! 
What do I set the dial on?
What Holes do I use to plug in the red and black probes?
Then what do I do to test the alternator?

[N8171S]

Set it to DCV 20 volt scale, turn it on and put the leads on the battery terminals with the bike running.  If the alternator is working you should see 13 to 14.5 volts.  If you only see 12.5 or less the alternator is not working.

[Patrick]

Red lead to 10ADC and battery positive
Black lead to COM and battery negative/ground

Scale to  20  DCV


Start engine and run at 2000-2500 RPM. Voltage should be above 13V.

[gordonv]

Test the battery first, see what voltage you have there, bike NOT running.

Then start and test again, at idle.

Increase the rpm, and monitor what the meter reading is.

Come back with the results and post.

[Gryphon Rider]

Red lead to 10ADC and battery positive
Black lead to COM and battery negative/ground

Scale to  20  DCV


Start engine and run at 2000-2500 RPM. Voltage should be above 13V.

NO! Red lead to the VΩmA terminal to read Volts (or Ohms or milliamperes).

[Patrick]

Red lead to 10ADC and battery positive
Black lead to COM and battery negative/ground

Scale to  20  DCV


Start engine and run at 2000-2500 RPM. Voltage should be above 13V.

NO! Red lead to the VΩmA terminal to read Volts (or Ohms or milliamperes).

I think you could be right, I stand corrected, I guess.

[John Schmidt]

Yup Pat, he's right, I got one of those meters as a freebie from Harbor Freight and without thinking(looking, actually) used the top hole. Couldn't figure out why I didn't get a VDC reading until I started checking my leads. That's when you look around to see if anyone caught the goof. 

[WintrSol]

Yup Pat, he's right, I got one of those meters as a freebie from Harbor Freight and without thinking(looking, actually) used the top hole. Couldn't figure out why I didn't get a VDC reading until I started checking my leads. That's when you look around to see if anyone caught the goof. 

I suspect your current measurement using the 10A input doesn't work anymore. Not that there is much call for it.

[Patrick]

Yup Pat, he's right, I got one of those meters as a freebie from Harbor Freight and without thinking(looking, actually) used the top hole. Couldn't figure out why I didn't get a VDC reading until I started checking my leads. That's when you look around to see if anyone caught the goof. 

I had to look at the meter face again. I hate to give folks incorrect info, but, I guess it happens. From what it looks like it doesn't look like it would have hurt anything, probably just a no info/reading until it was figured out.  Thats certainly happened to me before.

[Gryphon Rider]

I had to look at the meter face again. I hate to give folks incorrect info, but, I guess it happens. From what it looks like it doesn't look like it would have hurt anything, probably just a no info/reading until it was figured out.  Thats certainly happened to me before.

If the 10ADC terminal was used when the selector is not in the 10A position, the meter should be fine.  If 10A is selected and the 10ADC terminal is used across the battery terminals, it will either blow the meter's fuse if it has one, or wreck the meter if it isn't fused.

[falconbrother]

I know this is off topic, sort of.  I had an old electraglide that had a built in volt meter.  That thing lied like a dog.  Hit the brakes and it would jump down to 10 volts.  But, I knew that one little tail light bulb wouldn't do that.  I ask around and it was a common issue.  Checked my rotor/stator all the time with that same old cheap Harbor Freight multimeter.  Works good.   

[John Schmidt]

I had to look at the meter face again. I hate to give folks incorrect info, but, I guess it happens. From what it looks like it doesn't look like it would have hurt anything, probably just a no info/reading until it was figured out.  Thats certainly happened to me before.

If the 10ADC terminal was used when the selector is not in the 10A position, the meter should be fine.  If 10A is selected and the 10ADC terminal is used across the battery terminals, it will either blow the meter's fuse if it has one, or wreck the meter if it isn't fused.

Yes, it works fine....such as it is for a cheap freebie.    I had it set for VDC, caught my mistake after a few seconds and repositioned the lead. All's well! 

[Robert]

Red lead to the VΩmA terminal to read Volts the other to the com and set at 20v. Take the voltage with the key on and engine off first. The voltage should be about 11 or 12 volts and hold steady for at least a few minutes. The will test the battery condition with a load. Then start the engine and let it idle the voltage may drop to or be at 12 volts but anything above idle it should show around 14v. These bikes at idle do not really charge that well if at all. But at 1200 rpm the voltage should start to be around the 14v mark. I needed  cheepe meter for home and have the same meter they are ok for this type of thing or checking house wiring.

[Robert]

I know this is off topic, sort of.  I had an old electraglide that had a built in volt meter.  That thing lied like a dog.  Hit the brakes and it would jump down to 10 volts.  But, I knew that one little tail light bulb wouldn't do that.  I ask around and it was a common issue.  Checked my rotor/stator all the time with that same old cheap Harbor Freight multimeter.  Works good.   

Depends on where they hooked the volt meter to like what circuit. The voltmeter to be accurate needs to be hooked up to a good circuit that gets good battery voltage all the time regardless of what is switched on. Like right out of the ignition switch is a good option.