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Author Topic: Leaky clutch slave but i can't get screws off the top of the master reservoir  (Read 2579 times)
SpidyJ
Member
*****
Posts: 794

Murrells Inlet


« on: August 14, 2016, 10:53:20 AM »

Now the my fan motor is all sorted I notice my clutch slave is leaking.

Freakin' aluminium?!?!?

 (that was for you Britman)

....seized so tight I'm sure I'm gonna strip them.....should I drill them out or is it safe to give them a little heat?
« Last Edit: August 14, 2016, 01:37:46 PM by SpidyJ » Logged

1999 Fast Black Interstate

Peace,
johnnywebb
sandy
Member
*****
Posts: 5386


Mesa, AZ.


« Reply #1 on: August 14, 2016, 11:33:13 AM »

Place the right size phillips in the screw and tap FIRMLY as you rotate. That might do it. Heat might ruin the seal on the sight glass.
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Bighead
Member
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Posts: 8654


Madison Alabama


« Reply #2 on: August 14, 2016, 12:04:04 PM »

If sandy's suggestion doesn't work don't panic go to lowes and buy a Grab-it-pro and you will have it out in under ten seconds cooldude you will have to replace the screw but that isn't a problem. I replaced them on both my Valks brake and clutch side with Allen head screws and they come out much easier.
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1997 Bumble Bee
1999 Interstate (sold)
2016 Wing
Gideon
Member
*****
Posts: 462


Indianapolis, IN.


« Reply #3 on: August 14, 2016, 12:18:33 PM »

I suggest you grind the tip down on the Phillips screw driver. You want the blades to fit down into the screw. The screws are Japanese. Your Phillips S/D is American.
Then follow Spidy's instructions.
I also recommend that you replace the Reservoir JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) Screws with 4mm X 12mm Chrome Allen Head Screws. Do it to both Front Brake and Clutch Reservoirs.  
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But they that wait upon the Lord shall renew their strength; they shall mount up with wings as eagles; they shall run and not be weary; they shall walk, and not faint.  Isaiah 40:31
Gideon
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Posts: 462


Indianapolis, IN.


« Reply #4 on: August 14, 2016, 12:23:09 PM »

I meant Sandy's instructions. So sorry.
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But they that wait upon the Lord shall renew their strength; they shall mount up with wings as eagles; they shall run and not be weary; they shall walk, and not faint.  Isaiah 40:31
Gryphon Rider
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*****
Posts: 5227


2000 Tourer

Calgary, Alberta


« Reply #5 on: August 14, 2016, 12:24:18 PM »

Use the screwdriver from the bike's OEM tool kit.
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big poppa pump
Member
*****
Posts: 714


San Antonio, TX


« Reply #6 on: August 14, 2016, 12:29:50 PM »

Use the screwdriver from the bike's OEM tool kit.

^^^^^^^^^^
What he said. Using a JIS bit really helps when you are dealing with the screws on the Valk. One of the reasons why I invested in some quality JIS bits. Haven't stripped a single head to date and never had a problem removing even the most stubborn screws.
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VRCC#35870
VRCCDS#0266
1998 Valkyrie Hot Rod

Chrisj CMA
Member
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Posts: 14774


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #7 on: August 14, 2016, 12:42:14 PM »

Now the my fan motor is all sorted I notice my clutch slave is leaking.

Freakin' aluminum?!?!?

 (that was for you Britman)

....seized so tight I'm sure I'm gonna strip them.....should I drill them out or is it safe to give them a little heat?

I believe that would be the Master cylinder NOT the slave.........just sayin.

As was stated there are three problems associated with removing these screws and the fix usually overcomes all three problems.

1. Those are not Phillips screws, they are JAL JIS (oops)
2. Dissimilar metals causes the screws to seize in the threads
3. The screws are crazy soft metal that strips easily.

So take a GOOD fitting screwdriver (especially if you don't have the Japanese ones like I don't) and tap on it with a hammer a few times.  This seats the screwdriver better in the screw, loosens a bind caused by dissimilar metals and reduces the chance of stripping that soft fastener.

Good luck

 
« Last Edit: August 14, 2016, 12:45:27 PM by Chrisj CMA » Logged
SpidyJ
Member
*****
Posts: 794

Murrells Inlet


« Reply #8 on: August 14, 2016, 01:17:07 PM »

Now the my fan motor is all sorted I notice my clutch slave is leaking.

Freakin' aluminum?!?!?

 (that was for you Britman)

....seized so tight I'm sure I'm gonna strip them.....should I drill them out or is it safe to give them a little heat?


I believe that would be the Master cylinder NOT the slave.........just sayin.

As was stated there are three problems associated with removing these screws and the fix usually overcomes all three problems.

1. Those are not Phillips screws, they are JAL JIS (oops)
2. Dissimilar metals causes the screws to seize in the threads
3. The screws are crazy soft metal that strips easily.

So take a GOOD fitting screwdriver (especially if you don't have the Japanese ones like I don't) and tap on it with a hammer a few times.  This seats the screwdriver better in the screw, loosens a bind caused by dissimilar metals and reduces the chance of stripping that soft fastener.

Good luck

 
Yes of course...it's the 2 screws on the master I'm talking about.....but it's MT now so the cover has to come off to fill and bleed after installing a new slave.  Thanks all....I will not be defeated! Guess I have to buy a new slave yeah?
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1999 Fast Black Interstate

Peace,
johnnywebb
big poppa pump
Member
*****
Posts: 714


San Antonio, TX


« Reply #9 on: August 14, 2016, 01:24:36 PM »

Now the my fan motor is all sorted I notice my clutch slave is leaking.

Freakin' aluminum?!?!?

 (that was for you Britman)

....seized so tight I'm sure I'm gonna strip them.....should I drill them out or is it safe to give them a little heat?


I believe that would be the Master cylinder NOT the slave.........just sayin.

As was stated there are three problems associated with removing these screws and the fix usually overcomes all three problems.

1. Those are not Phillips screws, they are JAL JIS (oops)
2. Dissimilar metals causes the screws to seize in the threads
3. The screws are crazy soft metal that strips easily.

So take a GOOD fitting screwdriver (especially if you don't have the Japanese ones like I don't) and tap on it with a hammer a few times.  This seats the screwdriver better in the screw, loosens a bind caused by dissimilar metals and reduces the chance of stripping that soft fastener.

Good luck

 
Yes of course...it's the 2 screws on the master I'm talking about.....but it's MT now so the cover has to come off to fill and bleed after installing a new slave.  Thanks all....I will not be defeated! Guess I have to buy a new slave yeah?

You don't need to buy anything new, you just have to rebuild your slave cylinder. More than likely you a lot of crud in there and your oil seal is shot. I've rebuilt the slave cylinders using a K&L rebuild kit and never had any issues to date. Just make sure you get the direction right when installing the new oil seal.
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VRCC#35870
VRCCDS#0266
1998 Valkyrie Hot Rod

Patrick
Member
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Posts: 15433


VRCC 4474

Largo Florida


« Reply #10 on: August 14, 2016, 01:40:55 PM »

Vibration is the key. If tapping/whacking the screwdriver doesn't help, a hand impact driver just might.
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gordonv
Member
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Posts: 5762


VRCC # 31419

Richmond BC


« Reply #11 on: August 14, 2016, 03:55:50 PM »

Vibration is the key. If tapping/whacking the screwdriver doesn't help, a hand impact driver just might.

A little late, but that's what I did when wrecking my IS. Trying to remove the covers to drain the fluid out before draining/stripping the bike down, didn't know that the bike used JIL screw/bits. Bought an impact driver, figured how to use it, applied the twist, hit lightly with a hammer (repeat a little harder), and out they came.
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1999 Black with custom paint IS

Gideon
Member
*****
Posts: 462


Indianapolis, IN.


« Reply #12 on: August 15, 2016, 06:01:33 AM »

Glad things worked out.
Isn't this forum great !  cooldude 
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But they that wait upon the Lord shall renew their strength; they shall mount up with wings as eagles; they shall run and not be weary; they shall walk, and not faint.  Isaiah 40:31
da prez
Member
*****
Posts: 4358

. Rhinelander Wi. Island Lake Il.


« Reply #13 on: August 15, 2016, 06:09:55 AM »

 Another way is to use valve lapping compound on the tip of the screwdriver (this refers to the senior mechanics) or a dip the tip of the screwdriver in oil and then in the grinding dust of your grinder. This will give added grab. I use a small blunt punch first to tap on the screw heads to jar them loose.
   A phillips screwdriver is a 37 degree tip where a JIS is a 45 degree. The phillips hits bottom before it hits the cross slots. In a pinch , I slightly ground back the tip , but it is best to invest in a set of JIS screwdrivers.

                                   da prez
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SpidyJ
Member
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Posts: 794

Murrells Inlet


« Reply #14 on: August 15, 2016, 03:13:37 PM »


You don't need to buy anything new, you just have to rebuild your slave cylinder. More than likely you a lot of crud in there and your oil seal is shot. I've rebuilt the slave cylinders using a K&L rebuild kit and never had any issues to date. Just make sure you get the direction right when installing the new oil seal.
[/quote]

I'm gonna rebuild the Master and the Slave.....I've been searching/looking for the K&L kit numbers.....any help?  Wanna make sure I buy the correct kits.

thx
jaw

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1999 Fast Black Interstate

Peace,
johnnywebb
big poppa pump
Member
*****
Posts: 714


San Antonio, TX


« Reply #15 on: August 15, 2016, 03:24:05 PM »

You don't need to buy anything new, you just have to rebuild your slave cylinder. More than likely you a lot of crud in there and your oil seal is shot. I've rebuilt the slave cylinders using a K&L rebuild kit and never had any issues to date. Just make sure you get the direction right when installing the new oil seal.


I'm gonna rebuild the Master and the Slave.....I've been searching/looking for the K&L kit numbers.....any help?  Wanna make sure I buy the correct kits.

thx
jaw



http://www.ebay.com/itm/K-L-Master-Cylinder-Clutch-Rebuild-Kit-For-Honda-GL1200-GL1500-V65-Magna-Sabre-/231343283836?hash=item35dd225e7c:g:5~kAAOSw585WT9KM&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-GL1500CT-Valkyrie-Tourer-97-00-Clutch-Slave-Cylinder-Kit-/311663930681?hash=item48909e2d39


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VRCC#35870
VRCCDS#0266
1998 Valkyrie Hot Rod

SpidyJ
Member
*****
Posts: 794

Murrells Inlet


« Reply #16 on: August 15, 2016, 03:35:14 PM »

You Da Man BPP......thanks for the links.

BTW...I go that buzztard screw out of the master...had to drill the head off and then the threaded part came out by hand....guess the beveled head was the part that was bound up.

Ordering the kits now........ cooldude
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1999 Fast Black Interstate

Peace,
johnnywebb
big poppa pump
Member
*****
Posts: 714


San Antonio, TX


« Reply #17 on: August 15, 2016, 03:37:32 PM »

You Da Man BPP......thanks for the links.

BTW...I go that buzztard screw out of the master...had to drill the head off and then the threaded part came out by hand....guess the beveled head was the part that was bound up.

Ordering the kits now........ cooldude


This kit has been a lifesaver for me. Best 30 bucks I ever spent......

http://www.ebay.com/itm/RATCHET-BIT-SET-JIS-Vessel-509-/181705170924?hash=item2a4e78dfec:g:a1gAAOSwpDdVa6wq
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VRCC#35870
VRCCDS#0266
1998 Valkyrie Hot Rod

Bighead
Member
*****
Posts: 8654


Madison Alabama


« Reply #18 on: August 15, 2016, 03:57:08 PM »

You Da Man BPP......thanks for the links.

BTW...I go that buzztard screw out of the master...had to drill the head off and then the threaded part came out by hand....guess the beveled head was the part that was bound up.

Ordering the kits now........ cooldude
Grab-it-Pro ! I am telling you ten second removal of any screw.
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1997 Bumble Bee
1999 Interstate (sold)
2016 Wing
SpidyJ
Member
*****
Posts: 794

Murrells Inlet


« Reply #19 on: August 15, 2016, 04:04:41 PM »

You Da Man BPP......thanks for the links.

BTW...I go that buzztard screw out of the master...had to drill the head off and then the threaded part came out by hand....guess the beveled head was the part that was bound up.

Ordering the kits now........ cooldude
Grab-it-Pro ! I am telling you ten second removal of any screw.
   Any screw except the one in my clutch master cylinder.....although I coulda screwed sumthin' up I guess but the Grab-it Pro dint work for me! coolsmiley
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1999 Fast Black Interstate

Peace,
johnnywebb
BlackValk (FL)
Member
*****
Posts: 13

Venice, Florida


« Reply #20 on: August 17, 2016, 03:59:05 AM »

I had the same problem on my 2001 Interstate. I GENTLY USED  a "impact tool" with the correct phillips bit. These impact tools ( mine is a small brother to one I used on farm tractors ) simply need a LIGHT TAP on top and the screw loosens right up. Read again: LIGHT TAP! The "tap" causes rotation of the bit. Be sure you have it set to loosen, not tighten! I bought the small tool at Sears.

Blackvalk (Venice Florida)
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Bighead
Member
*****
Posts: 8654


Madison Alabama


« Reply #21 on: August 17, 2016, 11:48:51 AM »

You Da Man BPP......thanks for the links.

BTW...I go that buzztard screw out of the master...had to drill the head off and then the threaded part came out by hand....guess the beveled head was the part that was bound up.

Ordering the kits now........ cooldude
Grab-it-Pro ! I am telling you ten second removal of any screw.
   Any screw except the one in my clutch master cylinder.....although I coulda screwed sumthin' up I guess but the Grab-it Pro dint work for me! coolsmiley
If it didn't work you were useing it wrong. I have removed many many screws with mine and never not had it work. cooldude
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1997 Bumble Bee
1999 Interstate (sold)
2016 Wing
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