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Author Topic: Float needles  (Read 1024 times)
pancho
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Posts: 2113


Bonanza Arkansas


« on: August 19, 2016, 02:18:27 PM »

I have been fine tuning the pilot screws for awhile, and now have them to where all the plugs look good and balanced, and the bike idles fine. I am currently running 35s and have Cobra pipes, so the pilot screws are out a bit more than standard.

Now here's the rub,, all the carbs on the left bank (2,4,6) ended up being 2 1/2 to 2 3/4 out, and all the carbs on the right bank (1,3,5) ended up being 3 1/2 to 3 3/4 out to get it perfect.  

(This fact was giving power to the R1 R2 cam thing in my mind, but currently I'm looking elsewhere for a solution)

Now my thinking is since all the float valves are towards the center, when the bike is leaned over on the side stand, it compresses the springs in the float valves on the left weakening them over time, and releases the pressure on the ones on the right bank.  SO, now the fuel level in the left bank is higher under riding conditions (making them run richer) and requiring less enriching with the pilot screw....

What do you think, is this flawed thinking or am I possibly on to something. I am going to go through the carbs again in awhile and am going to order new float valves, are these ones any good? any long term problems with them? they certainly are much more reasonable than factory ones.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001KOD732?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00

« Last Edit: August 19, 2016, 02:29:31 PM by pancho » Logged

The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.
Roidfingers
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Posts: 729


Tuscaloosa, Alabama


« Reply #1 on: August 19, 2016, 02:35:56 PM »

Don't know about your theory, but I just bought those and did mine. That's them
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BonS
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Posts: 2198


Blue Springs, MO


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« Reply #2 on: August 19, 2016, 04:45:03 PM »

Those are excellent float needles. Their spring pressure is about 50% stronger than the OEM's that I've removed.
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pancho
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Posts: 2113


Bonanza Arkansas


« Reply #3 on: August 20, 2016, 07:34:02 AM »

Thanks guys,,   new float needles are ordered. I also have an older dental ultrasonic scaler that I can rig up to clean small parts, this should be the last trip into these carbs for awhile.
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The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.
Harryc
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Posts: 765


Sebastian, Fl


« Reply #4 on: August 20, 2016, 11:51:12 AM »

At how many miles should you consider replacing float needles on a Valkyrie? Gee-wiz, since joining this forum you guys have come up with at least 10 ways to occupy my time in the shop. LOL
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pancho
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Posts: 2113


Bonanza Arkansas


« Reply #5 on: August 20, 2016, 12:27:34 PM »

Yeah,, but at least the time is well spent........
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The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.
Harryc
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Posts: 765


Sebastian, Fl


« Reply #6 on: August 20, 2016, 12:55:18 PM »

Yeah,, but at least the time is well spent........
True ...
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BonS
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Posts: 2198


Blue Springs, MO


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« Reply #7 on: August 20, 2016, 02:41:49 PM »

At how many miles should you consider replacing float needles on a Valkyrie? Gee-wiz, since joining this forum you guys have come up with at least 10 ways to occupy my time in the shop. LOL
Oh, I don't know, about every 20 years should do it!

Seriously, the threat of hydro lock is a great reason unto itself to keep the needles fresh. There's little forgiveness in the design of our 45 degree (+/-) carburetor bowl designs for a weak spring on these needles. The top of the floats easily hit the top of the bowl when the spring gets weak or the needle doesn't seat good enough to shut off the gas. At that point the gas overflows into the carburetor throat and runs downhill into the cylinder. If an intake valve is open you might have hydro lock.
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