Valkyrie Riders Cruiser Club
July 05, 2025, 01:13:17 PM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
Ultimate Seats Link VRCC Store
Homepage : Photostash : JustPics : Shoptalk : Old Tech Archive : Classifieds : Contact Staff
News: If you're new to this message board, read THIS!
 
Inzane 17
Pages: [1]   Go Down
Send this topic Print
Author Topic: Final drive throwing oil  (Read 937 times)
Whiskey Bravo
Member
*****
Posts: 55


« on: August 28, 2016, 11:48:19 AM »

I can use a little help!

Changed the oil in the final drive unit yesterday… It was very dark and was hardly anything in the unit.

Upon further inspection I noticed it must have been leaking from the hub and universal joint (the black  coupling the goes into the drive unit?) has  some very dark grimy areas on the right side of the wheel and what I am calling the universal joint.

I don't believe I overfilled the final drive assembly filled up to just below the threads of the filler cap…

the one thing I hate more than anything else in life is the smell of Rear end oil…

Could some of you guys please chime in.  Tell me when I need to replace and suggested replacement parts.

Thank you.

Whiskey Bravo

Logged
hubcapsc
Member
*****
Posts: 16781


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #1 on: August 28, 2016, 11:57:15 AM »


The big seal in the middle there is worth checking.



-Mike
Logged

Pete
Member
*****
Posts: 2673


Frasier in Southeast Tennessee


« Reply #2 on: August 28, 2016, 12:10:46 PM »

The replacement fill is a little less then 6 fluid ounces. That is not a lot of oil.
As for filling to the bottom of the threads, was the bike setting straight up?
If it was on the side stand you may have overfilled.

Logged
Whiskey Bravo
Member
*****
Posts: 55


« Reply #3 on: August 28, 2016, 12:20:51 PM »

hi guys,

Thanks for the quick response.

yes the bike was upright  and level…


any suggestions on what parts to order and have replaced
Logged
Beardo
Member
*****
Posts: 1247

Regina, Saskatchewan Canada


« Reply #4 on: August 28, 2016, 12:25:02 PM »

Had the same issue this summer, the guys here told me exactly what seal it is, part number is in this thread.  Cheap and easy fix.

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,87229.msg857851.html#msg857851

Hardest part was getting the old seal out, I just screwed a screw into it to pull it out, same as when doing the shifter seal.

Edit...you'll notice hubcapsc also commented on my thread...kudos to you Mike...I've noticed you in a lot of threads offering help and part numbers. Good job.
« Last Edit: August 28, 2016, 12:31:26 PM by Beardo » Logged
_Sheffjs_
Member
*****
Posts: 5613


Jerry & Sherry Sheffer

Sarasota FL


« Reply #5 on: August 28, 2016, 12:37:29 PM »

And don't push the new one too far in. 
Logged
Whiskey Bravo
Member
*****
Posts: 55


« Reply #6 on: August 28, 2016, 12:41:05 PM »

okay thanks very much.  I have the part number


I will have to have somebody do this for me.  Is there anything else I should replace while the final drive is off the bike?…

I noticed in the link you sent me something about 3 O-rings

Logged
Beardo
Member
*****
Posts: 1247

Regina, Saskatchewan Canada


« Reply #7 on: August 28, 2016, 12:46:05 PM »

okay thanks very much.  I have the part number


I will have to have somebody do this for me.  Is there anything else I should replace while the final drive is off the bike?…

I noticed in the link you sent me something about 3 O-rings



Yeah, since you have to remove the wheel, remove the whole final drive(just 4 nuts to remove), remove the driveshaft, grease the pinion cup/driveshaft splines, replace the 3 o-rings, grease your drive flange, check/replace the thrust washer. You can inspect your rubber dampers while you have your wheel off too.

« Last Edit: August 28, 2016, 12:47:55 PM by Beardo » Logged
Whiskey Bravo
Member
*****
Posts: 55


« Reply #8 on: August 28, 2016, 12:53:31 PM »

any recommendations as to someone who may be able to  do the work for me in the Los Angeles area?

Logged
Chrisj CMA
Member
*****
Posts: 14774


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #9 on: August 28, 2016, 01:00:30 PM »

any recommendations as to someone who may be able to  do the work for me in the Los Angeles area?



If you removed the wheel and all that goes with that, you can put it back on just as easy.  The sequence is critical so read up, but you will know it's done right
Logged
The emperor has no clothes
Member
*****
Posts: 29945


« Reply #10 on: August 28, 2016, 03:04:51 PM »

any recommendations as to someone who may be able to  do the work for me in the Los Angeles area?


Post this over on the SoCal chapter. BigMac (Dave) has been known to work on a few Valkyries. I don't know if he is available to do it but I would imagine you can work something out.  cooldude He is in Moreno Valley.
Logged
Cracker Jack
Member
*****
Posts: 556



« Reply #11 on: August 28, 2016, 06:30:56 PM »

You say there was "hardly anything in the unit". If that means considerably less than the required 5 OZ, it probably had already leaked to the point that nothing was left to leak. You should have reinstalled about 5 OZ. If you installed more than that, you may have overfilled it. The fill opening is only slightly higher than the drain and is on the side. The top fitting with the chrome cap is the vent. cooldude
Logged
Pages: [1]   Go Up
Send this topic Print
Jump to: