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Author Topic: Fork seal install  (Read 1226 times)
CB
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*****
Posts: 94


Largo, FL


« on: September 03, 2016, 02:26:49 PM »

Anyone around the Clermont area know someone or shop I can get a fork seal kit inrstalled? TIA!  cooldude
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'98 Tourer
_Sheffjs_
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Posts: 5613


Jerry & Sherry Sheffer

Sarasota FL


« Reply #1 on: September 03, 2016, 06:17:28 PM »

Do you have a lift and slide the fork out?  Or you want local shop -- thank you drive through? 
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sixlow
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Posts: 1794


St. Augustine, Fl.


« Reply #2 on: September 03, 2016, 06:34:32 PM »

CB, have you tried all the tricks for cleaning the seals yet, are you past this point ? If not sometimes it works out and if only a little fluid has been lost you may survive. Otherwise as Jerry says, if you have the means to disassemble and bring the forks to a local shop/dealer that could save you some money.
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CB
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Posts: 94


Largo, FL


« Reply #3 on: September 03, 2016, 06:54:34 PM »

I have a lift and jack stands to pull it out myself. I had a guy do my other fork but unfortunately that shop closed and the only other choice was the dealership. If I knew how to do it and had the special Honda tool needed I'd do it all mtself. But I have not tried the other options yet and plan to look them up tomorrow and give them a try to hold me over.
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'98 Tourer
Pappy!
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Posts: 5710


Central Florida - Eustis


« Reply #4 on: September 03, 2016, 08:04:54 PM »

One of the "tricks" that can buy you some time is the use of some old 35mm film. cut a hook into one end of it and slide it into the seal around the area of the leak and bring it back out through the affected area. Very often it will pull debris out that is caught between the seal and fork surface.
Commercial seal cleaners are also available.
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John Schmidt
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Posts: 15201


a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« Reply #5 on: September 03, 2016, 08:26:18 PM »

If you're going to pull them I'd suggest before removing the forks, remove the caps. Nearly impossible to do so when not held in place by the triple trees. Same for replacing the caps, do it after the forks are back in place on the trees.
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sixlow
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Posts: 1794


St. Augustine, Fl.


« Reply #6 on: September 04, 2016, 04:08:03 AM »

good advice to get the caps loose while in the trees, let me add a trick: make sure the top 2 pinch bolts are loose first. That will let the cap back off easier.
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John Schmidt
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Posts: 15201


a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« Reply #7 on: September 04, 2016, 07:51:18 AM »

good advice to get the caps loose while in the trees, let me add a trick: make sure the top 2 pinch bolts are loose first. That will let the cap back off easier.
Most definitely. I stood and watched three Honda mechanics (?) trying to remove the caps on my '92 Wing some years ago. They struggled for at least 20 minutes and I saw what they didn't do but decided to let them run with it while I watched. During this, the boss's secretary came out and watched for a minute, shook her head and went back inside. A bit later she came back out for another reason, then paused to look at the bike, pointed to the top tree and asked why it wasn't loosened. Three mechanics' egos suddenly were completely deflated.
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Bert AKA,Valkaholic
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Posts: 1255


Back-N-Black


« Reply #8 on: September 04, 2016, 10:22:43 AM »

The Most Important Task Dealing With The Forks Is Making Sure That The little Rust Spots That Accumulate Behind The Chrome Cover Are Cleaned Off So That They Do Not Damage The New Seals. I Have Seen Times When People Replace The Seals And Forget To Clean The Fork Tubes And End Up With The Same Results, Leaking Seals.
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Life Is A Highway, I Wanna Ride It All Night Long !
FloridaValkRyder
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Posts: 1677


If your offended , you need a history lesson!!

Apopka, Florida


« Reply #9 on: September 04, 2016, 02:25:18 PM »

...or skip all this and take the bike, or forks themselves, to Bill (Grumpy..still hate calling him that, he really isn't..) in Seffner. He did mine, and many others, in no time at all.  cooldude
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I still miss her.
CB
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Posts: 94


Largo, FL


« Reply #10 on: September 04, 2016, 05:55:30 PM »

Thanks all for the input and I will remember all the tips and tricks. I've got a Seal Doctor coming tomorrow and I'll start there. Hopefully that'll give me the time to purchase a seal kit and travel to have Grumpy install when I'm ready. Also thinking about adding a little ATP AT-205 re-seal stop leak too. Much appreciated for everyone's response. Thanks again!
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'98 Tourer
MelbourneDan
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Posts: 93


Satellite Beach, FL


« Reply #11 on: September 05, 2016, 08:03:43 AM »

The 35 MM film trick worked for me.


Dan
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John Schmidt
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a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« Reply #12 on: September 05, 2016, 08:04:35 AM »

Careful with the stop leak. Some have had trouble with it causing some blockage of the passages in the left fork where the damper is. Generally speaking, if cleaning out under the seal with the tool doesn't do it, it's time for new ones. Using the stop leak sometimes will then require total disassembly for complete cleaning, whereas if you don't use it then disassembly isn't necessary. Your call.  cooldude
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Grumpy
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Posts: 3106


Tampa, Fl


« Reply #13 on: September 05, 2016, 08:45:34 AM »

Yep, whole lot more work to disassemble all the internals. Forget the stop leak, just asking for trouble.
Plus complete disassembly requires more parts, than just seals.
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Life is like a hot bath. It feels good while you’re in it, but the longer you stay in, the more wrinkled you get.
CB
Member
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Posts: 94


Largo, FL


« Reply #14 on: September 05, 2016, 08:57:06 AM »

Good to know, no one wants to spend more K on parts but rather gas to ride. I'll do the Seal Doctor and roll from there. Thanks!
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'98 Tourer
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