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Author Topic: What happeend to my rear wheel dampers.  (Read 3459 times)
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Member
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Posts: 27796


Maggie Valley, NC


« on: September 27, 2016, 11:53:39 AM »

Took rear wheel off only 1500 miles after BigBF had serviced the rear end.

Went to get a new tire put on.

Git home. Put wheel with new tire up on work surface to clean it up.

This has NEVER happened to me in over 80,000 miles of Valkyrie riding. This bike now has 45,000 miles.


















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Member
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Posts: 27796


Maggie Valley, NC


« Reply #1 on: September 27, 2016, 11:56:49 AM »

I just got back from a 3 day 800 mile ride and the bike felt fine  Shocked






The rubber was so f'ed up I could split it by hand with very little force.

So dry I used a shop vac to suck out the rubber dust  Shocked









Where does this go?





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Member
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Posts: 27796


Maggie Valley, NC


« Reply #2 on: September 27, 2016, 12:00:02 PM »

I had recently cleaned the rear wheel a couple of times using a product named "Merlins Blood". Am I right to be a little paranoid???

Supposed to be a neutral ph and I was told it wouldn't harm brake pads, paint, clear coat etc etc

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zj-houiPhrU
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hubcapsc
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Posts: 16779


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #3 on: September 27, 2016, 12:00:49 PM »

A fellow, Gary, who has since passed, used to make dampers for Valkyries.
It turns out he had a bad batch, maybe you don't have OEM dampers?

Order Interstate dampers to replace them, they are better and cheaper.

The "what is this" is your crucially important thrust washer that goes
into the back of your flange, don't leave it out...

-Mike
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Member
*****
Posts: 27796


Maggie Valley, NC


« Reply #4 on: September 27, 2016, 12:03:26 PM »

A fellow, Gary, who has since passed, used to make dampers for Valkyries.
It turns out he had a bad batch, maybe you don't have OEM dampers?

Order Interstate dampers to replace them, they are better and cheaper.

The "what is this" is your crucially important thrust washer that goes
into the back of your flange, don't leave it out...

-Mike

I've ordered the I/S set from Partzilla.

06410-MBH-000 06410-MBH-000 DAMPER SET, WHEEL
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Member
*****
Posts: 27796


Maggie Valley, NC


« Reply #5 on: September 27, 2016, 12:04:47 PM »

A fellow, Gary, who has since passed, used to make dampers for Valkyries.
It turns out he had a bad batch, maybe you don't have OEM dampers?

Order Interstate dampers to replace them, they are better and cheaper.

The "what is this" is your crucially important thrust washer that goes
into the back of your flange, don't leave it out...

-Mike

Would the OEM have a part number embossed on them?
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hubcapsc
Member
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Posts: 16779


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #6 on: September 27, 2016, 12:07:19 PM »

A fellow, Gary, who has since passed, used to make dampers for Valkyries.
It turns out he had a bad batch, maybe you don't have OEM dampers?

Order Interstate dampers to replace them, they are better and cheaper.

The "what is this" is your crucially important thrust washer that goes
into the back of your flange, don't leave it out...

-Mike

Would the OEM have a part number embossed on them?

I haven't held any OEM dampers in my hand for a while, I don't remember.

But when people post pictures of Gary's dampers turning to dust, it looks
like the pictures you posted. I've never seen OEM dampers fail like that,
they just slowly wear out and get loose (that I've seen)...

-Mike
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Member
*****
Posts: 27796


Maggie Valley, NC


« Reply #7 on: September 27, 2016, 12:12:51 PM »

A fellow, Gary, who has since passed, used to make dampers for Valkyries.
It turns out he had a bad batch, maybe you don't have OEM dampers?

Order Interstate dampers to replace them, they are better and cheaper.

The "what is this" is your crucially important thrust washer that goes
into the back of your flange, don't leave it out...

-Mike

Would the OEM have a part number embossed on them?

I haven't held any OEM dampers in my hand for a while, I don't remember.

But when people post pictures of Gary's dampers turning to dust, it looks
like the pictures you posted. I've never seen OEM dampers fail like that,
they just slowly wear out and get loose (that I've seen)...

-Mike

On previous Valkyrie and the ST1300 they would wear and need replacing every about 50,000 miles.
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..
Member
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Posts: 27796


Maggie Valley, NC


« Reply #8 on: September 27, 2016, 12:20:07 PM »

A fellow, Gary, who has since passed, used to make dampers for Valkyries.
It turns out he had a bad batch, maybe you don't have OEM dampers?

Order Interstate dampers to replace them, they are better and cheaper.

The "what is this" is your crucially important thrust washer that goes
into the back of your flange, don't leave it out...

-Mike

The thrust washer isn't shown on the Partzilla fiche.
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Bone
Member
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Posts: 1596


« Reply #9 on: September 27, 2016, 12:24:49 PM »

4   
WASHER, THRUST

42616-MAJ-G20
 
$5.71

$4.80
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hubcapsc
Member
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Posts: 16779


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #10 on: September 27, 2016, 12:29:15 PM »

A fellow, Gary, who has since passed, used to make dampers for Valkyries.
It turns out he had a bad batch, maybe you don't have OEM dampers?

Order Interstate dampers to replace them, they are better and cheaper.

The "what is this" is your crucially important thrust washer that goes
into the back of your flange, don't leave it out...

-Mike

The thrust washer isn't shown on the Partzilla fiche.

There's a crappy picture of it as #5 on the rear wheel page...

-Mike
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..
Member
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Posts: 27796


Maggie Valley, NC


« Reply #11 on: September 27, 2016, 12:29:56 PM »

4   
WASHER, THRUST

42616-MAJ-G20
 
$5.71

$4.80

Thanks. I need to know where it goes.
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hubcapsc
Member
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Posts: 16779


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #12 on: September 27, 2016, 12:34:25 PM »


It goes "in the back" of the flange. When the flange is installed
in the wheel, the thrust washer prevents metal-on-metal contact
between the flange and the wheel. Notice how it fits exactly
where the flange will be in this picture:



-Mike
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The emperor has no clothes
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Posts: 29945


« Reply #13 on: September 27, 2016, 04:23:45 PM »

I went out and looked at mine. I have some new and some with 50k on them. They only have the word "outside" and a number of A1-A7 molded into the rubber. I think Mike is right, you've got a set of the bad batch ones from Gary. Make sure you put some grease on the thrust washer.
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Jess from VA
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Posts: 30410


No VA


« Reply #14 on: September 27, 2016, 04:32:42 PM »

All of Gary's were urethane, even the bad batch.  I have two of his good sets going strong.

All the OE's are rubber.  They don't crumble.
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Bighead
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Posts: 8654


Madison Alabama


« Reply #15 on: September 27, 2016, 05:06:51 PM »

Those Dampners are not OEM. The OEM I serts are not round on the outside as those .
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1997 Bumble Bee
1999 Interstate (sold)
2016 Wing
csj
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Posts: 992


I used to be a wolfboy, but I'm alright NOOOOOWWWW

Peterborough Ontario Canada


« Reply #16 on: September 28, 2016, 07:00:01 AM »

I just had my dampers (dampeners?) out during the rear wheel service.
After 18 years of being in there, they looked brand new, and I'm gonna
take the new ones back.
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A guy called me a Ba$tard, I said in my case it's an accident
of birth, in your case you're a self made man.
Foozle
Member
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Posts: 368


Lexington, KY, USA


« Reply #17 on: September 28, 2016, 09:46:17 AM »

ChrisJ CMA has an excellent PP on servicing the final drive - which also includes replacement of the rear wheel dampers.  Naturally, I can't seem to locate this tutorial - but Chris suggests that putting the new dampers in the freezer overnight greatly aids in their installation.  I'm working from memory, but perhaps he (Chris) can chime in.  Terry
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..
Member
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Posts: 27796


Maggie Valley, NC


« Reply #18 on: September 28, 2016, 11:07:16 AM »

I just had my dampers (dampeners?) out during the rear wheel service.
After 18 years of being in there, they looked brand new, and I'm gonna
take the new ones back.

You may be surprised at the difference new ones will make in "feel". Even if the originals look good.
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..
Member
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Posts: 27796


Maggie Valley, NC


« Reply #19 on: September 28, 2016, 11:10:28 AM »


It goes "in the back" of the flange. When the flange is installed
in the wheel, the thrust washer prevents metal-on-metal contact
between the flange and the wheel. Notice how it fits exactly
where the flange will be in this picture:



-Mike


Got it.

The enforced wait for new dampers has given me the opportunity to give parts of the bike normally out of reach a good cleaning. I've now got another good coating of wax on the metal plates below the saddlebags and on the back of the saddlebags as well.

They should be arriving this pm. I got next day service from Partzilla for an extra $2.00
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..
Member
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Posts: 27796


Maggie Valley, NC


« Reply #20 on: September 28, 2016, 11:13:19 AM »

This is the tire I have replaced my Shinko Journey with.

https://simpletire.com/gt-radial-p205-60r16-100a1545-tires?stmodel=champiro-vp1&stcategory=all-season&sttype=passenger&gclid=Cj0KEQjw4827BRDJvpbVuKvx-rIBEiQA2_CzsCy1_J74jQXNNZqvDmrq5n-kbY_o1RYjl1pWFUaYJSEaAqD28P8HAQ

Shinko lasted for 6,500 miles plus I could have squeezed another 1,000 miles out of the tire but with the FCR in less than 3 weeks I wanted to make sure I had enough rubber to carry me through riding before and during the FCR.
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hubcapsc
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Posts: 16779


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #21 on: September 28, 2016, 11:42:48 AM »


Read some of that final drive maintenance stuff on shoptalk.
Apparently there is a controversy over whether or not to
slather moly paste all over the thrust washer and all over
inside the flange and where it fits on the wheel. And the flange
pins. I put moly on all that stuff...

-Mike
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..
Member
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Posts: 27796


Maggie Valley, NC


« Reply #22 on: September 28, 2016, 11:53:31 AM »


Read some of that final drive maintenance stuff on shoptalk.
Apparently there is a controversy over whether or not to
slather moly paste all over the thrust washer and all over
inside the flange and where it fits on the wheel. And the flange
pins. I put moly on all that stuff...

-Mike

I'm a firm believer in a good schmear of grease.

All the old grease has been removed even though it was recently applied by BigBF. I wanted to get all the wayward crumbs and smaller particles from the destroyed dampers removed.
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Grumpy
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Posts: 3106


Tampa, Fl


« Reply #23 on: September 28, 2016, 05:54:28 PM »

Britman, if you need the plate that holds the dampers, let me know. I have a good spare one.
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Life is like a hot bath. It feels good while you’re in it, but the longer you stay in, the more wrinkled you get.
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Member
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Posts: 27796


Maggie Valley, NC


« Reply #24 on: September 28, 2016, 06:34:02 PM »

Britman, if you need the plate that holds the dampers, let me know. I have a good spare one.

Mine will work. Thank you.
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..
Member
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Posts: 27796


Maggie Valley, NC


« Reply #25 on: September 29, 2016, 08:32:52 AM »

Putting the rear wheel back on I've come to my favorite hassle. Trying to get the rear brake plate into the gap between the spacer and the swing arm.

Had the same problem last year and my brain WILL NOT remember how I managed to squeeze the darn thing into place.


Suggestions welcome.
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hubcapsc
Member
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Posts: 16779


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #26 on: September 29, 2016, 08:47:46 AM »

Putting the rear wheel back on I've come to my favorite hassle. Trying to get the rear brake plate into the gap between the spacer and the swing arm.

Had the same problem last year and my brain WILL NOT remember how I managed to squeeze the darn thing into place.


Suggestions welcome.

Jamb it all back together without the spacer and maybe even
jiggle it around some while it is all held there in the right place,
then pull the axle out just enough to mash in the spacer...

-Mike "might work  Wink "
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..
Member
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Posts: 27796


Maggie Valley, NC


« Reply #27 on: September 29, 2016, 09:08:30 AM »

Putting the rear wheel back on I've come to my favorite hassle. Trying to get the rear brake plate into the gap between the spacer and the swing arm.

Had the same problem last year and my brain WILL NOT remember how I managed to squeeze the darn thing into place.


Suggestions welcome.

Jamb it all back together without the spacer and maybe even
jiggle it around some while it is all held there in the right place,
then pull the axle out just enough to mash in the spacer...

-Mike "might work  Wink "

Errr nope that will not work. There's enough of the spacer that goes into a recess that the resulting gap once the brake plate is in place wouldn't allow the mashing in.
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mark81
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Posts: 555


Cincinnati Ohio


« Reply #28 on: September 29, 2016, 09:39:47 AM »

I raised my wheel with a floor jack to get it at the right height and wiggled everything together
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1997 Honda Valkyrie
1981 Honda CB750 Custom
saddlesore
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Posts: 1579



« Reply #29 on: September 29, 2016, 10:05:18 AM »

I replaced mine this summer and was wondering if you had to order the dampers and the inserts separately.    From what I read inserts were included on some models.   
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DARE TO BE DIFFERENT
The emperor has no clothes
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Posts: 29945


« Reply #30 on: September 29, 2016, 10:08:49 AM »

I replaced mine this summer and was wondering if you had to order the dampers and the inserts separately.    From what I read inserts were included on some models.   
the interstate dampeners are the ones to get.  cooldude
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..
Member
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Posts: 27796


Maggie Valley, NC


« Reply #31 on: September 30, 2016, 01:16:40 PM »

Plasma cutter, grinder and mig welder and no all is OK Cheesy

Nooooo. Relax.

I found it easiest to slide the bracket in from under the axle and then rotate it anti clockwise.

This after putting the axle in from the wrong side to get everything lined up and held in position.

NOW THE NEXT PROBLEM IS

How the hell do I get this spring thing back into place???



If I have to take it all apart again so be it.

I've tried to remove the pin that goes through the brake pads but the last owner has it tighter than a ducks butt in water. I thought removing the brake pads would make it easier. I couldn't get the spring plate thing in with the caliper free of the bike. No matter how I set my mouth.
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Ricky-D
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Posts: 5031


South Carolina midlands


« Reply #32 on: October 01, 2016, 08:07:59 AM »

I don't see a connection to the wheel dampers which is the subject of this thread, but will answer your post anyways. You can run without that spring in the caliper and it will not affect anything in a real way, but there may be some additional noise generated from the pads clacking aqainst the rotor and there also could be a little accelerated wear to the pads. That's about it.  The pin needs to be removed to be able to replace the pads and properly return the spring to it's position. You'll eventually have to do this!

***
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
Chrisj CMA
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Posts: 14769


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #33 on: October 02, 2016, 07:13:50 PM »

At the most you will have to pull the pads, should be able to do that without messing with the axle nut.  I wouldn't run without it, no way
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