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Author Topic: BONS Smart Switch  (Read 1683 times)
sandy
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Mesa, AZ.


« on: October 12, 2016, 02:19:26 PM »

I just finished installing BONS switch on my '98 Tourer. Before and after pics were both shot with the engine running at 1000 RPMs. The brighter lite caused my camera to reduce the aperture so the background looks darker. The difference in brightness is even more pronounced.



« Last Edit: October 12, 2016, 02:22:56 PM by sandy » Logged

bill-jr
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VRCC # 35094

murfreesboro


« Reply #1 on: October 12, 2016, 05:09:13 PM »

Does your light still go off when hitting the starter button ?
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Ever danced with the devil In the pale moon light ?
99' Black tourer
BonS
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Blue Springs, MO


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« Reply #2 on: October 12, 2016, 06:28:46 PM »

Nice pics Sandy. They really speak to the improvement. It varies from bike to bike but I measured a 40% increase in wattage on my Standard.

Does your light still go off when hitting the starter button ?
Yes they do, just like OEM.
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h13man
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Indiana NW Central Flatlands


« Reply #3 on: October 12, 2016, 09:40:25 PM »

Someone mention tapping into the Smart Switch for running auxilary lighting. I want know if this is feasible because I want add 20w of LED spot lights.
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Itinifni
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Boston


« Reply #4 on: October 13, 2016, 04:06:59 AM »

The single headlight SmartSwitch is fused for 10A, Dual for 15A, as long as your total load is safely below the circuit's rated capacity your fine.

I try to keep circuit loads at or below 50% of the fused amperage and never more than 75%. If you're using the single headlight switch that gives you 5-7 amps to work with or 60-84 watts @12V. If you have a 65W (high beam) halogen headlight and add 20W of LED auxiliary lights you're right around 7 amps and should be fine.

If you choose to go that route I suggest you add a fuse in the wire from the SmartSwitch to the aux lights, installed close to the SmartSwitch. I installed 3A fuses inside the headlight bucket, that way if the wiring from the SmartSwitch to my aux lights shorts to ground it will not take out my primary headlight.

Matt
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73? CT70
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Fazer
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West Chester (Cincinnati), Ohio


« Reply #5 on: October 13, 2016, 05:09:49 AM »

+1 on the Smart Switch, and anything BonS offers.  He's great to work with as well.
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BobB
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One dragon on the tail of another.


« Reply #6 on: October 13, 2016, 07:12:08 AM »

Someone mention tapping into the Smart Switch for running auxilary lighting. I want know if this is feasible because I want add 20w of LED spot lights.

One could tap into the input power wire of the smart switch to run other low amperage lamps.  But for control purposes, it would have to go through another relay.

The Smart Switch is the best plug and play solution for our head light switch issues.  It's a must have if you are not "electrically minded".  I would have one if I had not already installed micro relays in the headlight bucket for the headlight and auxiliary lighting...
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mike72903
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« Reply #7 on: October 13, 2016, 11:57:11 AM »

Does your light still go off when hitting the starter button ?
yes it does.  Everything operates as normal. it just moves the actual operation to relays in the headlight bucket.  The starter switch now only has to handle a small current to operate the relay instead of the actual headlight current.  Your switches will last longer as a result
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Itinifni
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Boston


« Reply #8 on: October 13, 2016, 07:38:27 PM »

Someone mention tapping into the Smart Switch for running auxilary lighting. I want know if this is feasible because I want add 20w of LED spot lights.

One could tap into the input power wire of the smart switch to run other low amperage lamps.  But for control purposes, it would have to go through another relay.

The Smart Switch is the best plug and play solution for our head light switch issues.  It's a must have if you are not "electrically minded".  I would have one if I had not already installed micro relays in the headlight bucket for the headlight and auxiliary lighting...

BobB,

As long as you tap into the load side of the smart switch it will control the lights, either with low beam or high beam depending on which wire you use.
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73? CT70
79 CB750K
82 GL1100
94 CBR1000F
Kid
Kid
97 Valkyrie Std. (May surpass the GL1100 as the best bike I've ever owned, I'll update in 50k miles)
h13man
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To everything there is an exception.

Indiana NW Central Flatlands


« Reply #9 on: October 13, 2016, 09:42:57 PM »

Probably tap in the low beam to run them all the time. Trying to find a chrome handle bar switch to turn them off if want/need to.
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sandy
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Mesa, AZ.


« Reply #10 on: October 14, 2016, 07:09:46 PM »

BONS supplied power wire is 16 gauge. That will only handle 10 amps. Over that and the wire will heat up. I run 4 highway lights which aren't on in my pics. They are on a completely separate 10 amp circuit. DON'T add more power to BONS product. It's engineered perfect for itself.
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h13man
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Indiana NW Central Flatlands


« Reply #11 on: October 14, 2016, 10:26:39 PM »

The new lights draw 1.66 amps so tapping into the the stock headlight wire would the most feasible?
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BonS
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Blue Springs, MO


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« Reply #12 on: October 15, 2016, 04:20:34 AM »

The new lights draw 1.66 amps so tapping into the the stock headlight wire would the most feasible?
That will work fine. The stock headlight draws around 4.25 amps so together you'll be at 6 amps. No problem.
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h13man
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To everything there is an exception.

Indiana NW Central Flatlands


« Reply #13 on: October 16, 2016, 06:21:43 AM »

Thank you. I was waiting on your input. My son bought a 04' VTX-C yesterday. A see another S.S. purchased soon.  Wink
« Last Edit: October 16, 2016, 06:24:55 AM by h13man » Logged
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