key switch, HELP Please...

[Wewaman]

I can't get the key to go all the way into the switch.    I tried the search option but it seems to be all electrical issue's.
  I started to take the switch off but I am not sure what will go flying since I've not done this before.     Sooo,  before I go any further I thought I would seek the help of the Experienced  Gurus and then Proceed.

Thanks in advance,
  Wewa

[flash2002]

Did you try to spray some WD-40 or something in that type. With time it might be dirt and rust in the key hole, try to flush and lube and play with the key.

[hubcapsc]

Look close at the keyhole. If your eyes are like mine, take
a picture of the keyhole and look at it all blown up on your
computer screen.

There's a little spring-loaded door on the keyhole. It
can come unhinged and get wedged up in the works.

I replaced my switch when it happened to me. Others
have been able to get the door out of the works with
a little pick or something and just do without it.

If you can see your little door opening and closing
for the tip of your key, your problem is probably
something else...

-Mike

[BnB Tom]

  The ignition switch is like the rest of the bike's locks..  they are wafer locks.
They aren't happy when they get dirty.  First comes the dust then comes the humidity then comes the 'clogged up wafers'.

  Flash 2002 has the right idea.  Flush the hole with WD-40 then run your key in and out SEVERAL times.  While you're at it, you might want to lightly spray the rest of the locks on you bike. (saddle bags, gas tank, fork lock and center cover)

  HubcapSC is also correct.  Those little 'dust covers' have teensy springs that sometimes break or collapse.  Also, sometimes the wafers themselves can get bent or damaged from too much force by the key when they are dirty and stuck.  Either problem requires a little GENTLE digging around with a pick, WD-40  and tweezers.

  If there is too much damage then yes, you'll need to replace the lock.



 

[Gryphon Rider]

NOT WD40!  Use a graphite lock fluid, like Lock-Ease; the fluid evaporates, leaving the graphite, which lubricates the lock.  WD40 will leave an oily film, which attracts dust, which you don't want in your lock.

[Wewaman]

Thanks for the replies 

It does not have a door protecting the key slot.  I picked a couple of pieces of thick whiteish plastic out of the slot and WOOOHOOO,  in goes the key.   You know what that means, I had to take it for a quick 50 mile test ride. 
  Key goes in and out just fine   

Good call Mike   

Thanks again,
  Tony

[John Schmidt]

Also, only have the one key on that ring, don't have a bunch hanging there....the excess weight wears the wafers and eventually ruins the lock.

[Valkpilot]

I picked a couple of pieces of thick whiteish plastic out of the slot...

That was the door.

You still should flush it out with lock lube and look for more loose bits.  The springs went somewhere...

[Fazer]

Would't you know, soon as read this post, the same thing happens to me--talk about kismet. 

I was able to get out two hunks of hard white plastic but can see no sign of a spring.  I did not have any Lock Ease so I used the WD-40.  Key would go all the way in, but would not turn.  I figured a piece of something is stuck in there.  Got it to work and will watch for a spring and spray with Lock Ease soon as I get some.

[Wewaman]

I will keep checking-look again for the elusive little spring 
  Should I just take it apart or will that release other hidden springs and their family members?
 I can flush again with the lock ease and also blow it out with compressed air. 

Thanks for the tip John.  I was thinking of doing what Grumpy did with his key since there is no longer a protective door. 

Thanks,
  Wewa

[di1213]

I had this same problem a couple of years ago. I had stopped at a TSC  and  when I returned the key would not go in. til I read this thread I would have sworn someone had stuck something in the lock. I found a paperclip and bent a small hook on the end to dig out those whitish pieces. I didn't see a spring but I could have missed seeing it if I did drag it out. Been running since with no trouble.

[Fazer]

Thanks for the tip John.  I was thinking of doing what Grumpy did with his key since there is no longer a protective door.

Wewa--What did Grumpy do?  I did not see a response from him. 

[BnB Tom]

NOT WD40!  Use a graphite lock fluid, like Lock-Ease; the fluid evaporates, leaving the graphite, which lubricates the lock.  WD40 will leave an oily film, which attracts dust, which you don't want in your lock.

  
  More than once I have had to completely rebuild a lock that was treated with a graphite lock lubricant because of the dry, hardened residue that was left behind in this humid, N. Texas area.
 
   As a flushing liquid, WD-40 works great!  (WD-40 is a WATER DISPLACING OIL - 40th Formulation).

   However, Tri-Flow (which has no graphite in it) along with a few other non-graphite based lubricants is the only type of products recommended by high end security lock manufacturers.



  P.S.    Ever wonder why graphite is NOT recommended as a lubricant for firearms?   

[hubcapsc]

Tri-Flow

 

-Mike "good stuff... even on mountain bike chains..."

[Wewaman]

Frazer ,
 Grumpy made a solid looking knob that his key is attached to.  I'm not sure if his key is epoxied, welded, or pinned into the knob but you really don't know it's a key.  Think of a Harley ignition switch.  You just turn it on and off.   Although with Grumpys you can remove the key if wanted.

 Tony

[Blackduck]

CRC Dry Glide works well.
Dry film PTFE so no sticky residue to hold dust.
Cheers Steve