Went gorilla hands and stripped a threaded hole in a bracket.

[doubletee]

Original screw is an M6 X 10. Should I drill and tap all the way up to an M8 X 10 or do something different?

[Roidfingers]

I'd try just recutting the threads m6 first. Then may need to go up.

[Hook#3287]

Can you get a washer and nut on the back side?

[h13man]

What bracket?

[doubletee]

The one into which the screw goes to fasten the radiator side cover.

[RGM]

You could try a longer screw, it might get into some non stripped threads. Going to a M8 would be my next option. A pic of the where the hole is would help as well. If the hole go through then a longer M6 screw with a nut on the back will work too.

[CajunRider]

Try simply re-tapping first.  You may be able to get it to work.  

Some claim that you can use Loc-Tite or JB_Weld to refill the bolt hole, then re-drill and tap to the original size.  I've never tried... and I've heard mixed reviews.  I do know that JB-Weld works great in other areas (I've repaired mufflers and gas tanks with that stuff), but I've never tried to repair, drill, and tap JB-Weld.  

On the up side, you can always try the JB-Weld or Loc-Tite method without doing any permanent damage.  Worst case is that it doesn't work and you are right back to where you are now.  

If all else fails, drill & tap to next size will definitely work.  The question at that point is whether you use a Heli-Coil insert (or similar) or just change out to M8 bolts.  Personally, I'd rather go up to the M8 bolts if there's room, but I've used the Heli-Coil method before, with good results.

[doubletee]

You could try a longer screw, it might get into some non stripped threads. Going to a M8 would be my next option. A pic of the where the hole is would help as well. If the hole go through then a longer M6 screw with a nut on the back will work too.

I like the idea of a nut behind it, but with the chrome side cover in place there's no way to hold the nut to get the screw started or to tighten it. Couldn't go any longer on the screw anyway, since it would run into the side of the radiator. Then I'd REALLY have problems. 

[doubletee]

Try simply re-tapping first.  You may be able to get it to work.  

Some claim that you can use Loc-Tite or JB_Weld to refill the bolt hole, then re-drill and tap to the original size.  I've never tried... and I've heard mixed reviews.  I do know that JB-Weld works great in other areas (I've repaired mufflers and gas tanks with that stuff), but I've never tried to repair, drill, and tap JB-Weld.  

On the up side, you can always try the JB-Weld or Loc-Tite method without doing any permanent damage.  Worst case is that it doesn't work and you are right back to where you are now.  

If all else fails, drill & tap to next size will definitely work.  The question at that point is whether you use a Heli-Coil insert (or similar) or just change out to M8 bolts.  Personally, I'd rather go up to the M8 bolts if there's room, but I've used the Heli-Coil method before, with good results.

I think the threads are completely gone. An M6 tap likely would just slide right through the hole. Never tried the J-B Weld route. My suspicion is it would tear out with even less torque on the screw. I think I'm just going up to an M8. There's room for it.

[gordonv]

I need to do the same on my exhaust pipes, for the end shrouds. Have broken 5 of the 6 bolts right off, and rounded the head of the 6th.

I figure I will be drilling out the center of the bolt. Then drill it larger till I get to the width of the valley of the bolt. Then with a pick, try to remove the shards of the bolt threads. Run a tap through it to clean it up.

It is just for holding on a piece of "tin" and isn't structural at all.

If I end up with no threads, then I would tap it out to the next size M bolt. Use anti seize.

[John Schmidt]

Good grief guys, you need to tame that gorilla.  Then learn the difference between snug(which is usually more than adequate on 98% of the fasteners on the Valk), and "just a little tighter ought to do it" which usually ends up with stripped threads or busted fasteners. Stop with the torque wrench and go with snug, works every time.

[doubletee]

Good grief guys, you need to tame that gorilla.  Then learn the difference between snug(which is usually more than adequate on 98% of the fasteners on the Valk), and "just a little tighter ought to do it" which usually ends up with stripped threads or busted fasteners. Stop with the torque wrench and go with snug, works every time.

Phillips head screw. I was trying to eliminate a vibration.

[flash2002]

You could try a longer screw, it might get into some non stripped threads. Going to a M8 would be my next option. A pic of the where the hole is would help as well. If the hole go through then a longer M6 screw with a nut on the back will work too.

I like the idea of a nut behind it, but with the chrome side cover in place there's no way to hold the nut to get the screw started or to tighten it. Couldn't go any longer on the screw anyway, since it would run into the side of the radiator. Then I'd REALLY have problems. 

You can glue the nut with JB first. Just glue the nut and hold in place with the screw , the next day take the screw out place the cover and install screw.

[h13man]

After looking @ the parts fische I'd say M8 is possible but bolt head clearance could be an  issue. Theres not much to work with as for a thread repair insert due to the bolt is only 10 mm long. A M8 may have to have some modification to the head to fit into the side cover c'bore/recess.

[di1213]

Could you use a tinnerman nut?

[Tfrank59]

you can tap it m8 and be sure to use a bottoming tap so as to avoid, as you said, puncturing the rad.  then don't overtorque

[bentwrench]

A striped 6mm hole is easy to rethread to 1/4"x20.Some times you don't even need to drill it out.

[Bone]

bentwrench that is a great tip.

[Scottrtho]

I also recommend the 1/4 x 20 tap, then wrap the new screw threads with a few turns of teflon tape to prevent it from vibrating loose over time.

[DK]

Insert a stud held in place with red loctite, JB Weld, or Teflon tape.

[falconbrother]

A striped 6mm hole is easy to rethread to 1/4"x20.Some times you don't even need to drill it out.

This is what I would do.

[Gideon]

A striped 6mm hole is easy to rethread to 1/4"x20.Some times you don't even need to drill it out.

This is what I would do.

I also agree. 
I used a 1/4"x20 tap when I stripped the 6mm that holds the chrome cover over the rear brake assembly. I didn't drill the hole or put anything on the new 1/4"x20 screw. It's been several years and it's still holding.   

[bentwrench]

I've saved many a friends engine cases with that trick.Thank goodness dad got the go-rilla outa me when I was young

[doubletee]

Thanks for the fantastic suggestions! I may actually do a combination:  do the 1/4 x 20 tap and then j-b weld a nut on the backside, just because.