Getting ready to paint the 1200 project.

[John Schmidt]

I have a '99 Silver/gray Valkyrie tank adapted to it and want to match the front/rear fenders and side covers to the tank. Does anyone have an idea of where I can find a rattle can that will match colors, mostly for the silver? Or....I do have an airless sprayer that runs off 110 volt, I bought it mostly for painting stuff like the big yard swing, touch up on the house trim, etc., I have no idea how fine it would spray when painting a bike. I do have access to an airbrush that looks like a full size sprayer....only smaller. Wondering if that would be more appropriate. I do have a good compressor so possibly I should go ahead and spring for a decent yet low cost air type gun and be done with it instead of trying to use the rattle cans. I'll be using self-etching primer on the metal rear fender, then a couple coats of black with some silver darts once dried. Pretty much the same on the front fender but since it's plastic, as are the side covers, I'll not be using the self etching primer. I'm open to suggestions.

[Skinhead]

I've had good luck with Duplicolor rattle cans on a IS tank, front and rear fenders, solid black.  I sprayed the color coats and very light final color coat followed by a moderate coat of clear while the color was still wet.  then several coats of clear.  Wet sand to 2000 grit then buff.  Turned out well, but be careful getting gas on the paint, it will leave a mark.

[Avanti]

Take a look at this website, http://www.colorrite.com/.

[Pete]

Last bike I painted I used automotive paint from an auto paint store and a standard spray gun and compressor. The paint and all are still holding up fine after many years.

12 coats of acrylic lacquer were easy to do and have held up better than any factory paint job I have ever seen. If you mess up, wait 45 minutes sand smooth and re-shoot.

I shot plastic, metal and fiberglass all with the same paint.

Just one hint mix very wet, 2 thinner to 1 paint and spray light coats. Let each coat dry (10 to 15 minutes). After about 10 coats it will gloss out. Spray a couple of more and let dry well before hand polish and buff.

By spraying wet each coat penetrates the coats before and bonds into a single finish and sticks like glue.

[JimC]

John, forget the airless. Your detail gun is a possibility, but I would go for a HVLP gun, I have heard good things about the Harbor Freight cheapo guns, but I have not tried one yet. I did buy several of them at their last sale, they were marked down from $39 to $10. At that price you can throw it away after you are done.

I have sprayed a dozen cars or more in the last 30 years, if I were you, I would paint it with automotive paint. Any good paint supplier will give you mixing advise and tell you what products are more forgiving. The modern base clear paints are easy to apply if you take your time and read up on them. The clear is very easy to sand and buff out after it is cured if there are oops's.

Jim

[John Schmidt]

I like what was said about the lacquer paints, it seems a rather long process but I've been working on this project for over three years anyway. Keep in mind, the Valkyrie tank now on the bike is in near perfect condition so I'm not going to repaint it, just want to match the silver on the parts needing paint. The gloss black should be rather easy to match up, the silver portion is where the problem lies. I'd like to paint both fenders black, then add a touch of the silver for accent only. Same for the side covers. If I were to use the  acrylic lacquer, how long must I wait for the black to dry before adding the silver accents?

Lastly, if I took the color designation for the silver to a paint store, would they be able to match it or am I better served by simply buying a pint of the silver from Color Rite? I'll most likely start with the rear fender since it's metal. If I screw that up I can always remove the paint and start over, a process a bit more difficult with the plastic front fender of side covers.

Note the tank color(s), the silver is what I want to match but don't plan to do anything to the tank itself. The front fender is the OEM item that came on the bike, which I cut down to better match the rear bob. As you can see, it's a close match with the silver, is an original Goldwing color and slightly different.

[Pete]

A really good paint store should get you a real close match. As you spray make sure to keep the paint stirred at all times.

10 to 15 minutes drying time is often plenty of time when spraying coats.
When painting multiple pieces often the first is dry enough for a re-spray when you spray the the last.

If you are going to tape on fresh paint I would wait longer, just because of the sticky on the tape.
Say an hour or more in the sun and then let cool before taping.

Press the tape only enough to get a good paint line, not as if you want to stick like glue.

Not all black is black, have it matched also. Blacks do differ.

You do not have to strip if you get a run or a bug, just let it dry, sand smooth and re-shoot.

[JWV 99 I]

I used the harbor freight guns, I am far from being a painter. I was very happy with the outcome, not show room quality, but not bad.  I have a 2000 Chevy pickup, the paint is good compared to the underlying body work. (Some bondo work and it really shows through) I used primer, base coat and clear coat. I wanted to keep the old truck for a long time and it looks fair.  I also have seen folks use spray can and will wet sanding have done a pretty good job.  No more than you are painting if you do not like the out come, sand and give it another coat.

[da prez]

   John , a good auto body shop will have a color match (light)  gizmo (high tech) that will read the color with fade.  Paint stores will have them but not be able to mix auto paint.
  We have matched a few. They will give you a formula for the paint. It might be a few bucks , but it will be exact.

                                        da prez

[falconbrother]

I had a sportster painted a few years ago.  I bought DuPont paint and it was a perfect match and the clear coat was the best I have seen.  It was expensive but, the final product was great. 

[desertrefugee]

I've been looking forward to your getting that bike to this point!   Good on you!

As for paint, here's how I do it:

I have my talented friend spray my stuff...

[John Schmidt]

I've been looking forward to your getting that bike to this point!   Good on you!

As for paint, here's how I do it:

I have my talented friend spray my stuff...

My talented friend is sorta tied up for a few more years. I'll be long gone by then.    As for painting, I have a new sprayer from Harbor Freight, was marked down to $25. Cleaned all the mfgr. junk from the internal parts and installed a moisture separator on the compressor. I'll prep the parts over the next few days then go looking for some good gloss black and clear coat. I'll probably make my own paint stand with some PVC tube and a few odds and ends, just need something to set the fenders on so I can walk around it.