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Author Topic: Clicking sound from front of bike  (Read 2583 times)
mrgeoff
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Posts: 193


My 99 CT..."Liahona"

Augusta, GA.


« on: November 02, 2016, 05:53:50 PM »

Need some advise...1999 CT with 25000+ miles...rode yesterday about 60 miles of Highway(75-80 mph)...ran great...when I took her out today, a clicking sound (like something slapping against the front fender or something from timing belt area or under front end) started for around 4-5 miles (not the pair valves)...seemed to only hear it going from 1st-2nd-3rd, but didn't seem to hear it after that...Not on deceleration, only when starting from 1-2-3 gears...every time I start out from 1st gear...Not making clicking sound when out of gear and rev'ed...Not front brake (applied when heard clicking and it didn't seem to stop clicking)...Haven't removed front wheel so I think that is not it...Could it be a Timing Belt going bad???...My girl makes a whining sound when she runs (has done that ever since I got her 6 weeks ago)...Any suggestions would be a great help to me...I am use to a 1800 and this Fat Lady is a new experience to me...I do have a Honda Shop manual...!!!Thanks...!!!
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mrgeoff/SANDMAN
WintrSol
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Posts: 1344


Florissant, MO


« Reply #1 on: November 02, 2016, 06:42:13 PM »

It's simple enough to check the timing belts, and adjust the tension, just to eliminate that.

Also, and I can't guess why it would come and go, have you checked the clearance between the brake rotor rivets and caliper on the left side? Just guessing, but perhaps the fork flexes just enough under acceleration to let them touch, if they are nearly touching statically.
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98 Honda Valkyrie GL1500CT Tourer
Photo of my FIL Jack, in honor of his WWII service
Firefighter
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Posts: 1165


Harlingen, Texas


« Reply #2 on: November 02, 2016, 06:42:41 PM »

Does it speed up and slow down with the wheel speed or the engine speed?
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2000 Valkyrie Interstate, Black/Red
2006 Honda Sabre 1100
2013 Honda Spirit 750
2002 Honda Rebel 250
1978 Honda 750
BonS
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Posts: 2198


Blue Springs, MO


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« Reply #3 on: November 02, 2016, 06:57:22 PM »

Does it speed up and slow down with the wheel speed or the engine speed?
Great question. I'd be thinking wheel bearing. Lots of clicking and thunking.
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mrgeoff
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Posts: 193


My 99 CT..."Liahona"

Augusta, GA.


« Reply #4 on: November 02, 2016, 07:04:07 PM »

Firefighter...It seems to speed up a little as I increase my speed...but sounds the same as I enter 2nd gear...then sounds a little softer as I enter 3rd gear...by 4th gear, I can't really hear it...!!!
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mrgeoff/SANDMAN
mrgeoff
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Posts: 193


My 99 CT..."Liahona"

Augusta, GA.


« Reply #5 on: November 02, 2016, 07:10:41 PM »

Sol...I haven't checked the front brakes, but did apply them as I went through the gears...It seemed not to effect the sound...so I think this would probably rule out the rivets on the front brakes...I did change out the rear brake last week...In fact, I actually took the rear caliper off and cleaned it all up...!!!
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mrgeoff/SANDMAN
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Harlingen, Texas


« Reply #6 on: November 02, 2016, 07:22:10 PM »

 I would jack the bike and turn the wheels and see if there is any noise or if you feel something wrong like a bad bearing and the front brake caliper as someone already stated.

Timing belts don't cause trouble, sometimes the pulleys make a little noise but probably not. There is a buzz bolt up front, would need to do the search here on this site for that. Not a valve train noise is it? Under the valve covers. Exhaust leaks can make a ticking noise and the headers on these bikes do loosen up, takes 7 inch pound of torque.

I don't know what you hear or how loud, I am guessing that the noise is there through all the gears but bike and wind noise cancel it out at speed.?? Probably none of the above.
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2000 Valkyrie Interstate, Black/Red
2006 Honda Sabre 1100
2013 Honda Spirit 750
2002 Honda Rebel 250
1978 Honda 750
Firefighter
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Posts: 1165


Harlingen, Texas


« Reply #7 on: November 02, 2016, 07:26:05 PM »

Check everything you did, if you had the rear wheel off there is an order of assembly to put it back together.
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2000 Valkyrie Interstate, Black/Red
2006 Honda Sabre 1100
2013 Honda Spirit 750
2002 Honda Rebel 250
1978 Honda 750
The emperor has no clothes
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Posts: 29945


« Reply #8 on: November 02, 2016, 07:35:12 PM »

Got a bike Jack ? I'd remove the front wheel and check the bearings. You replaced rear pads but not the fronts ? I go thru 3 sets of fronts to each rear pads.
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old2soon
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Posts: 23402

Willow Springs mo


« Reply #9 on: November 02, 2016, 07:58:20 PM »

Check that front fender inner liner. RIDE SAFE.
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Today is the tommorow you worried about yesterday. If at first you don't succeed screw it-save it for nite check.  1964  1968 U S Navy. Two cruises off Nam.
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WintrSol
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Florissant, MO


« Reply #10 on: November 02, 2016, 09:12:49 PM »

Sol...I haven't checked the front brakes, but did apply them as I went through the gears...It seemed not to effect the sound...so I think this would probably rule out the rivets on the front brakes...I did change out the rear brake last week...In fact, I actually took the rear caliper off and cleaned it all up...!!!

The part of the caliper that would hit the rivets should not move when the brakes are applied; still not likely, but easy do give it a look.
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98 Honda Valkyrie GL1500CT Tourer
Photo of my FIL Jack, in honor of his WWII service
Skinhead
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J. A. B. O. A.

Troy, MI


« Reply #11 on: November 03, 2016, 04:55:25 AM »

Check that front fender inner liner. RIDE SAFE.


+1  easy stuff first.  Look for rub marks on the tire sidewalls.
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Troy, MI
Beardo
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Posts: 1247

Regina, Saskatchewan Canada


« Reply #12 on: November 03, 2016, 08:00:03 AM »

EBC brake pads or OEM?

Previous owner of my bike had put on EBC pads, it sounded like a herd of locusts(a flock of locusts? A gaggle?) in my font wheel.

Changed them to OEM pads, sound went away.
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Tfrank59
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'98 Tourer

Western Washington


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« Reply #13 on: November 03, 2016, 11:04:22 AM »

yeah, you're going to need a jack and lift adaptor (see how to build it in shoptalk) if you plan to do your own maintenance, so you might as well get those, then start with easy stuff as suggested--front wheel off the ground, check brakes, slop sideways (bearings), clicking sounds when rotating, etc.  You might have to pull the wheel off to really diagnose.  could be timing belts but sounds like a wheel thing of some sort.
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-Tom

Keep the rubber side down.  USMC '78-'84
'98 Valkyrie, ‘02 VTX 1800, '96 Royal Star, '06 Drifter, '09 Bonneville, '10 KTM 530, '04 XR 650, '76 Bultaco, '81 CR 450, '78 GS 750...
Valkpilot
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Posts: 2151


What does the data say?

Corinth, Texas


« Reply #14 on: November 03, 2016, 12:15:14 PM »

Rock or some such in the tread?
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Tfrank59
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'98 Tourer

Western Washington


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« Reply #15 on: November 03, 2016, 04:08:10 PM »

good one.  might also be a nail or screw stuck in there--had that happen in the spring right after changing my tire!  now I'm running with a plug in there Grin
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-Tom

Keep the rubber side down.  USMC '78-'84
'98 Valkyrie, ‘02 VTX 1800, '96 Royal Star, '06 Drifter, '09 Bonneville, '10 KTM 530, '04 XR 650, '76 Bultaco, '81 CR 450, '78 GS 750...
The emperor has no clothes
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Posts: 29945


« Reply #16 on: November 03, 2016, 05:00:46 PM »

good one.  might also be a nail or screw stuck in there--had that happen in the spring right after changing my tire!  now I'm running with a plug in there Grin
i don't know. I don't think I'd be able to hear that in 3rd gear. But I will admit its not as good as it once was.
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mrgeoff
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Posts: 193


My 99 CT..."Liahona"

Augusta, GA.


« Reply #17 on: November 03, 2016, 06:33:44 PM »

Thanks for all the input...I checked the Timing Belts and had to tighten the left belt a little more...Checked front brakes...look good...checked front fender liner...it was good...Went on a 45 mile ride...seems that as engine starts to warm up, sound seems to get quieter...Not related to when I am moving...Seems I can hear a slight clicking sound when at stop light, almost like a louder Pair Valve click...when I take off, it is a definite clicking through 1-2-3rd gears and seems as it sounds louder when the front forks raise as I shift from gear to gear...But then it seems to stop as the engine warms up...Pulled into the garage and just heard the Pair Valves doing their thing...Still looking into it...Think I will tighten the exhaust tomorrow and see how that works...I do need to get my carbs worked on...one on the right side is popping frequently...You all are great...I really need to get a jack adapter...I like to do most of my own work...after all, who else can you trust now days...
I will keep you informed of how I progress...Thanks ...!!!
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mrgeoff/SANDMAN
Bighead
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Posts: 8654


Madison Alabama


« Reply #18 on: November 03, 2016, 06:55:02 PM »

DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE EXHAUST BOLTS THEY WILL BREAK THE STUDS OFF!!!!!
Yes I was Yelling 2funny
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1997 Bumble Bee
1999 Interstate (sold)
2016 Wing
mrgeoff
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Posts: 193


My 99 CT..."Liahona"

Augusta, GA.


« Reply #19 on: November 03, 2016, 08:10:13 PM »

Bighead...Thanks....I saw that they should be 7 ft/lbs torqued...Last thing I want is a broken stud...!!! Guess I might even replace all the exhaust gaskets...!!!

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mrgeoff/SANDMAN
tonyfan70
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Apparently they know you?

Central Illinois


« Reply #20 on: November 04, 2016, 02:32:09 AM »

I think the studs are inch pounds...or should've been if it's too late
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1997 Standard. Original bumblebee tin stored.
1998 Magna 750
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indybobm
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Franklin, Indiana VRCC # 5258


« Reply #21 on: November 04, 2016, 04:15:17 AM »

It is 7 ftlbs which is a lot less than you think when you are tightening them without a torque wrench. A lot of people have broken exhaust studs even when using a torque wrench so be careful.
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So many roads, so little time
VRCC # 5258
WintrSol
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Posts: 1344


Florissant, MO


« Reply #22 on: November 05, 2016, 03:19:28 PM »

It is 7 ftlbs which is a lot less than you think when you are tightening them without a torque wrench. A lot of people have broken exhaust studs even when using a torque wrench so be careful.
Since 7 lb-ft is 84 lb-in, if you have a wrench with a tolerance of 3-5%, I'd set it to 80; don't want to go over on these studs!
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98 Honda Valkyrie GL1500CT Tourer
Photo of my FIL Jack, in honor of his WWII service
longrider
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Posts: 557


Vernon, B.C. Canada


« Reply #23 on: November 05, 2016, 04:13:26 PM »

Not sure why we rely so much on torque wrenches on such small studs. They can done by feel  and I suspect may be a bit tighter than 7 lbs but just nice and snug
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Harryc
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Posts: 765


Sebastian, Fl


« Reply #24 on: November 05, 2016, 04:21:44 PM »

Not sure why we rely so much on torque wrenches on such small studs.

Because the Honda engineers that designed the bike are better at engineering than I am.  Use a torque wrench...always. Oh, and calibrate those wrenches periodically.
« Last Edit: November 05, 2016, 04:23:31 PM by Harryc » Logged

mrgeoff
Member
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Posts: 193


My 99 CT..."Liahona"

Augusta, GA.


« Reply #25 on: November 05, 2016, 06:14:19 PM »

UPDATE On Clicking Sound...
    I may not know if this is the answer, but I found something new that will amaze you...Do you know the plastic chrome looking trim one can buy for putting around the bottom edge of a gas tank???...Well, as I was looking around my radiator, I found some of that trim along the top edge of the radiator...as I looked closer, I see the plastic chrome edging is flacking apart like it has been affected by the heat of the radiator...As I rubbed my finger along the length of it, it started making a "clicking" sound like the sound I hear...also the right end of this edging seems loose and may even flap up and down and is not really attached as the left side of the edging is attached...so, I am thinking this is the noise(clicking) I hear when the bike warms up...the wind from riding may be alloying this edging to make this noise...Tomorrow I will remove this plastic edging and go for a ride...Got a feeling this might be what is drivin' me crazy...or crazier...Who would have thought that this might be it...I am hoping...Will keep you up to date...Wish me luck...!!!
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mrgeoff/SANDMAN
pancho
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Posts: 2113


Bonanza Arkansas


« Reply #26 on: November 05, 2016, 06:58:38 PM »

"Got a feeling this might be what is drivin' me crazy...or crazier...Who would have thought that this might be it...I am hoping...Will keep you up to date...Wish me luck...!!! "

Hope that's it , you  SillyOleBear 
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The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.
longrider
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Posts: 557


Vernon, B.C. Canada


« Reply #27 on: November 06, 2016, 01:56:39 PM »

Harryc

That's your opinion. Those of us who have been wrenching most of our lives know why a lot of exhaust studs and valve cover bolts have been twisted of f.
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Firefighter
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Posts: 1165


Harlingen, Texas


« Reply #28 on: November 07, 2016, 05:30:45 AM »

Well Silly, I hope you are correct and you probably are. I have had a noise that I would hear when I moved the bike around or at idle at a stop light. Sounded like a brake dragging, just a little momentary squeak or whine when I moved the bike slightly. I jacked the bike up a couple of times and checked brakes, but never could recreate the sound. Then I realized the sound was produced when I turned the handle bars and the brakes had nothing to do with this sound, so I checked everything even took a quick look at the steering head bearings, nothing seemed wrong. Several weeks went by and I took an 850 mile round trip to Houston and back. During the trip I started having cruise control problems, so on my return I removed the faring (IS) as that is where I mounted my cruise control and noticed one of my handmade brackets has slipped out of place. When I moved or tried to rotate this bracket back where it should be it squeaked the sound I have been listening to for weeks.  cooldude I found you! That was all it was (a tiestraped bracket). (I the Man)!!

Moral of the story: I have found over the years when I do my on maintenance, repairs, and cleaning, that I find problems, loose brackets, bolts, wiring, etc. and can fix things usually before they stop working in the middle of nowhere, plus I learn so I can help myself or have an ideal of what to do when something goes wrong.     Best of Luck to you!
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2000 Valkyrie Interstate, Black/Red
2006 Honda Sabre 1100
2013 Honda Spirit 750
2002 Honda Rebel 250
1978 Honda 750
mrgeoff
Member
*****
Posts: 193


My 99 CT..."Liahona"

Augusta, GA.


« Reply #29 on: November 08, 2016, 05:46:37 PM »

Well, I am Still looking for that clicking sound...I will let you know when I find it...Tempted to disconnect the Speedometer cable from the wheel mount...just to eliminate one more thing...!!!

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mrgeoff/SANDMAN
Ricky-D
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Posts: 5031


South Carolina midlands


« Reply #30 on: November 09, 2016, 07:50:13 AM »

So, you haven't yet elevated the bike to seek the origination of the noise?

***
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
mrgeoff
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Posts: 193


My 99 CT..."Liahona"

Augusta, GA.


« Reply #31 on: November 09, 2016, 01:35:34 PM »

RickyD...I need to make a Valkyrie wood block adapter for my MC jack...!!!
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mrgeoff/SANDMAN
Ricky-D
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Posts: 5031


South Carolina midlands


« Reply #32 on: November 10, 2016, 06:39:26 AM »

Nope! Not just to lift the front wheel off the ground. And although those wooden ones may work I prefer the welded steel adapter. More reassuring for what it is designed to do.

***
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
Tfrank59
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'98 Tourer

Western Washington


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« Reply #33 on: November 10, 2016, 07:05:50 AM »

 I was a bit wary of having just wood too so I ended up adding metal hardware to the joints for insurance.  It's totally solid, there's no way it's coming apart, and I like the wood because it's kind to the machines underbelly.  Not to mention the price was right
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-Tom

Keep the rubber side down.  USMC '78-'84
'98 Valkyrie, ‘02 VTX 1800, '96 Royal Star, '06 Drifter, '09 Bonneville, '10 KTM 530, '04 XR 650, '76 Bultaco, '81 CR 450, '78 GS 750...
The emperor has no clothes
Member
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Posts: 29945


« Reply #34 on: November 10, 2016, 09:00:10 AM »

I was a bit wary of having just wood too so I ended up adding metal hardware to the joints for insurance.  It's totally solid, there's no way it's coming apart, and I like the wood because it's kind to the machines underbelly.  Not to mention the price was right
I've been using a wood adapter for years. Works great, never a problem.  Wink
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Jersey
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Posts: 545


VRCC #37540

Southern Maryland


« Reply #35 on: November 19, 2016, 07:04:31 PM »

RickyD...I need to make a Valkyrie wood block adapter for my MC jack...!!!



I installed one of these and it's worked perfectly.  I jack the ol' girl up all the time to wash it and tinker about using a standard motorcycle jack.  Plus, if I ever get stuck I can use any standard MC jack to lift.

 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/VALKYRIE-HONDA-LIFT-JACK-ADAPTER-NEW-1-MUST-HAVE-MOTORCYCLE-ITEM-Save-/170943480226?hash=item27cd0681a2
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Jersey
mrgeoff
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Posts: 193


My 99 CT..."Liahona"

Augusta, GA.


« Reply #36 on: November 21, 2016, 03:53:56 PM »

Jersey...You said you installed the jack adapter that mounts to the side stand bolts...How did you install it?...Did you have to jack the front up a little to loosen the side stand bolts / did you have to remove the side stand bolts to install it?...!!!
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mrgeoff/SANDMAN
Chrisj CMA
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Posts: 14774


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #37 on: November 23, 2016, 07:51:32 AM »

Jersey...You said you installed the jack adapter that mounts to the side stand bolts...How did you install it?...Did you have to jack the front up a little to loosen the side stand bolts / did you have to remove the side stand bolts to install it?...!!!

You do know that you can slip the M/C jack under the engine near the front (without any adapter) and jack up just the front of the bike leaving the rear wheel on the ground to inspect/work on front end issues, Right?
« Last Edit: November 23, 2016, 08:37:42 AM by Chrisj CMA » Logged
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