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Author Topic: Sea Foam  (Read 5319 times)
b1rks
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« on: October 04, 2009, 01:45:52 PM »

Starting to think about Winterizing Bike. Is Sea Foam the considered way to go. Does anyone drain Carbs? Battery Tenders ok? Stinks its getting chilly up here. But on the other hand . As a rescent Valk owner I'm looking to pickup some new additions to my Bike,over the Winter.
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Momz
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ABATE, AMA, & MRF rep.


« Reply #1 on: October 04, 2009, 02:59:23 PM »

Add half container of Sea Foam, full tank, run for a few minutes, shut off, drain float bowls, then plug in your battery tender.
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97 Valk bobber, 98 Valk Rat Rod, 2K SuperValk, plus several other classic bikes
Old Geezer Richard
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San Antonio , Tx


« Reply #2 on: October 04, 2009, 04:16:11 PM »

  Hey Birksj , I use sea foam all the time especially in my lawn mowers , edgers and my pressure washer for the winter come spring they fire up everytime .... read the can and it say's that it is a fuel stabilizer .... works for me
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If you don't care where you're going, then you ain't lost , Murphy's Law because wherever you are going to , it ain't going nowhere ....   San Antonio,Tx.
b1rks
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« Reply #3 on: October 04, 2009, 04:27:35 PM »

Thanks Old Geezer. I use stabilizer allso. Sea foam never herd of. But I'll try it. Sounds like a shaving cream.
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Steve K (IA)
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Cedar Rapids, Iowa


« Reply #4 on: October 04, 2009, 10:03:18 PM »

Yep, Sea Foam seems to work fine.  Use it in my lawn mowers, snow blower and both Valks.  I put in 1 oz per gallon, go up to the gas station and top it off.  Putting the gas in after adding the Sea Foam mixes it up.  I take about a 2 mile ride to make sure the treated gas has reached the carbs and park it.  I never drain the carbs...I've never had a problem.  Bikes are a 2000 I/S and a '97 Std.
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States I Have Ridden In
R J
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DS-0009 ...... # 173

Des Moines, IA


« Reply #5 on: October 04, 2009, 11:52:02 PM »

When I park the bike or the Big Chevy Trike for the season, both get a full can put in.

Ride them about 2 miles home to get the stuff into the carbs & park em.

Next Spring fire em up, run out that tank and every 4th tank I add another full can to a full tank.   This step is probably overkill, but it is a habit I got into on a trip to Florida.   MGM got something stuck in his throat and it took a few tanks to get it relieved.     

Knock on wood,  I haven't had a carb problem on either unit since I started using SeaFoam.    Vell I should take that back, Trike had a new carb put on it 9 years ago.  Went from a Carter to a Holley.
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b1rks
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« Reply #6 on: October 05, 2009, 03:15:25 PM »

yea I never drained Carbs on old Bike. No issues. I thought the stabilizer kind of eliminated that need. Notice in the Bike Manual they were very clear of draining carbs. Manual predated the use of stabilizers ? I don't know. I've been told Gold Wing (Valk) Carbs different Beast. If your in Iowa and your not draining. Your winter is more severe and longer than where I'am at. And you have had no problems.
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Bagger John - #3785
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« Reply #7 on: October 05, 2009, 03:55:28 PM »

yea I never drained Carbs on old Bike. No issues. I thought the stabilizer kind of eliminated that need. Notice in the Bike Manual they were very clear of draining carbs. Manual predated the use of stabilizers ? I don't know. I've been told Gold Wing (Valk) Carbs different Beast. If your in Iowa and your not draining. Your winter is more severe and longer than where I'am at. And you have had no problems.
The lighter petrochemicals in gasoline will readily evaporate, leaving behind any additives or particulates as contaminants. These WILL plug the carb jets (especially the low-speed circuit) and the air bleeds. Sometimes, you get lucky if you leave gas in the bowls. Others, you don't. I've seen it go both ways - and have occasionally had to rebuild carbs for people when additive buildup became problematic. Any Gold Wing owner who's been hit with a $600 R/R bill for carb work will definitely think twice about leaving fuel in them again, when a 5 minute procedure will prevent the condition from ever occurring.

What to do if your bike is to be stored over the winter:

1) Change oil and filter after warming bike up - and don't start bike again on the "clean" oil until spring. (Periodically starting the bike and letting it idle over the course of a winter actually does more harm than good; it allows condensates to build up in the crankcase and in the pipes. If you're not going to ride the machine continually, park it.)
2) Top gas tank up with fresh gas/stabilizer mix. I like Seafoam these days. Sta-Bil appears to come out of suspension too easily.
3) Drain carbs completely - I leave my bowl screws open afterward so a potentially leaky petcock won't flood the cylinders
4) Remove plugs, add a tablespoon of clean oil to each cylinder with an eyedropper or plastic battery filler that is dedicated solely to this purpose. Fogging oil may also be used.
5) Attach plugs to wires, lay electrodes on cylinder heads
6) Turn motor over with starter a few times to distribute oil on cylinder walls
7) Replace plugs
8 ) Remove battery; store in a warm area and trickle-charge to capacity every few weeks
9) If you haven't washed bike completely prior to beginning the winterizing process, do so now
10) Wipe all polished or chromed surfaces with a clean rag soaked with WD40, CRC556 or similar moisture-displacing spray lubricant
11) Wheel bike into storage area; cover with breathable cover.
12) (Optional; recommended in northern states) Piss and moan about 'no riding' until spring.

Honda covers these steps in the owner's manual. Heed their advice.
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98valk
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South Jersey


« Reply #8 on: October 05, 2009, 04:32:49 PM »

Starting to think about Winterizing Bike. Is Sea Foam the considered way to go. Does anyone drain Carbs? Battery Tenders ok? Stinks its getting chilly up here. But on the other hand . As a rescent Valk owner I'm looking to pickup some new additions to my Bike,over the Winter.


seafoam is not a fuel stabilizer.  Alcohol separates from the gasoline and attracts water, the E10 gasoline already has alcohol. perfect for rust over time.
Seafoam ingredients:
Isopropyl Alcohol (rubbing alcohol), pale oil, and naptha.
www.bobistheoilguy.com

http://www.factsaboutethanol.org/2007/11/19/ethanol-and-boat-motors-dont-mix/

MARINE Formula STA-BIL Ethanol Treatment
http://www.goldeagle.com/brands/stabil/products.aspx#marine_formula
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
b1rks
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Posts: 62


« Reply #9 on: October 05, 2009, 06:15:39 PM »

Well said John. Will heed advice. Got to take care of this Machine. Wife keeps saying this better be your last Bike. Probally last time I by anything but a flat 6. I don't know about last bike. You cover exhaust tips to.
« Last Edit: October 05, 2009, 06:19:59 PM by b1rksj95 » Logged
Bagger John - #3785
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« Reply #10 on: October 06, 2009, 04:15:57 AM »

Starting to think about Winterizing Bike. Is Sea Foam the considered way to go. Does anyone drain Carbs? Battery Tenders ok? Stinks its getting chilly up here. But on the other hand . As a rescent Valk owner I'm looking to pickup some new additions to my Bike,over the Winter.


seafoam is not a fuel stabilizer.  Alcohol separates from the gasoline and attracts water, the E10 gasoline already has alcohol. perfect for rust over time.
Seafoam ingredients:
Isopropyl Alcohol (rubbing alcohol), pale oil, and naptha.
www.bobistheoilguy.com

http://www.factsaboutethanol.org/2007/11/19/ethanol-and-boat-motors-dont-mix/

MARINE Formula STA-BIL Ethanol Treatment
http://www.goldeagle.com/brands/stabil/products.aspx#marine_formula

Hopefully, whomever produces Sta-Bil has solved the separation problem. I've personally witnessed this.
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98valk
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Posts: 13470


South Jersey


« Reply #11 on: October 06, 2009, 06:18:33 AM »

Starting to think about Winterizing Bike. Is Sea Foam the considered way to go. Does anyone drain Carbs? Battery Tenders ok? Stinks its getting chilly up here. But on the other hand . As a rescent Valk owner I'm looking to pickup some new additions to my Bike,over the Winter.


seafoam is not a fuel stabilizer.  Alcohol separates from the gasoline and attracts water, the E10 gasoline already has alcohol. perfect for rust over time.
Seafoam ingredients:
Isopropyl Alcohol (rubbing alcohol), pale oil, and naptha.
www.bobistheoilguy.com

http://www.factsaboutethanol.org/2007/11/19/ethanol-and-boat-motors-dont-mix/

MARINE Formula STA-BIL Ethanol Treatment
http://www.goldeagle.com/brands/stabil/products.aspx#marine_formula

Hopefully, whomever produces Sta-Bil has solved the separation problem. I've personally witnessed this.


a little bit of acetone stops the phase separation of the alcohol and gasoline. this is the only thing acetone is good for in gasoline, it does not help mpg as reported, although keeping the gas in phase would in effect keep the same mpg if the gas didn't separate.
Ethanol is another crime put on the american people so a few can get wealthy.

Even though my bike has been riden almost everyday for the past few months, it has started running ruff the last few wks. Has to be water acuumulation I think. Put some gumout regane formula http://www.gumout.com/ourProducts/ReganeFSC.asp  in last night (walmart $6), runs perfect this morning. Regane is a top tier fuel cleaner and also absorbs water.  Amsoil P.i. Performance Improver http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/api.aspx  also works really well some say better than Regane.
search regane or amsoil PI on www.bobistheoilguy.com for more info
seafoam alcohol is overpriced for what its does compared to Regane.
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
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