rhinor61
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« on: November 25, 2016, 12:06:12 PM » |
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Can somebody give me some advice and replacing the Faucet fuel pump on my RM works belly tank.
I drained all the fuel from the belly tank, shut the petcock to OFF position.
Do I need to remove the right side exhaust? Do i need to remove the belly tank from the bike?
any info would be most helpful. John
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John
Northern California 1998 Valkyrie Tourer Black/jade VRCC #28001
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WintrSol
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« Reply #1 on: November 25, 2016, 02:28:12 PM » |
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98 Honda Valkyrie GL1500CT Tourer Photo of my FIL Jack, in honor of his WWII service
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sixlow
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« Reply #2 on: November 25, 2016, 05:34:18 PM » |
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I have never done it but i carry a spare pump, when I looked I had figured it best to lay the bike down on moving blankets on its right side, be careful of the petcock it has been modified to be a vent and the "off" position may not be reliable. Not sure how you drained belly tank ? I always run main tank out of fuel by running on reserve till 160 or 180 miles on odometer then remove main tank. You may be o,k, with pulling the hose from belly and plug it quickly. I am curious how you make out.
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WintrSol
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« Reply #3 on: November 26, 2016, 09:17:47 AM » |
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... and the "off" position may not be reliable. I once rode over 70 miles with the petcock 'off'. There is only RES and 'not RES', because the tank drains directly to the belly tank; RES just drains the last of the fuel to the belly tank. When I plan to remove the tank, I ride around in RES for the last of more than 180 miles from the last fill-up.
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98 Honda Valkyrie GL1500CT Tourer Photo of my FIL Jack, in honor of his WWII service
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rhinor61
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« Reply #4 on: November 26, 2016, 10:40:51 AM » |
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I already know what 'Res' and 'Off' do. the main tank drains to the belly tank via 1/2" diameter hose. You can pinch that hose off but I chose to let it drain out. By putting the fuel switch to 'off' that will keep about the last 0.6 gallons of fuel in the main tank.
I have removed all the fuel in the belly tank, I cant get my hand on the pump mounting nuts, thus removing the right side exhaust pipe.
J.
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John
Northern California 1998 Valkyrie Tourer Black/jade VRCC #28001
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MarkT
Member
    
Posts: 5196
VRCC #437 "Form follows Function"
Colorado Front Range - elevation 2.005 km
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« Reply #5 on: November 26, 2016, 01:17:39 PM » |
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Every issue I see with belly tank problems just makes me glad I set mine up as I did. I can remove all the fuel from both tanks with just the extra hose I keep in my luggage - and gas cans to put it in. And my fuel pump doesn't get much use - just 9 minutes per refuel and then only if I need to use the belly fuel. I'm thinkin my pump should last a long time.
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« Last Edit: November 26, 2016, 01:20:09 PM by MarkT »
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rhinor61
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« Reply #6 on: November 26, 2016, 07:44:10 PM » |
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Mark. I agree with the work you have done does eliminate an potential issue.
Being on the side of the freeway during morning commute, 39F was not the place to be working on the Valkyrie. Once I got home, I turned the key on, I could hear the pump making a noise, but not the normal, steady click-buzz. I remove the upper fuel filter, gas poured out.. I hooked the fuel line back up. And the pump sounded like it normally does, the bike started up.
I ran it.. Shut it down, come back later and it started back up. I used the existing pump to drain the fuel out...
I figure its time to replace the pump, its been 4 years and 50k miles.. new filters too.
anyways.. thanks for all your help.
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John
Northern California 1998 Valkyrie Tourer Black/jade VRCC #28001
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Misfit
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« Reply #7 on: November 27, 2016, 07:25:26 AM » |
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Is would faster and easier to remove the exhaust on the right side. 
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If you're lucky enough to ride a Valkyrie, you're lucky enough. 
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DK
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« Reply #8 on: November 27, 2016, 07:39:13 AM » |
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I recently had a pump failure at +/- 6,000 miles. After rearranging the plumbing to gravity feed, but not disconnecting the electrical connection, I discovered the Pump running again at the next start-up. Fortunantly, I had connected the pressure hose to the vent hose, thus avoiding pumping 3 gallons of gasoline on a running engine....
Talking with Roger at R & M, he tells me that my experience was common; that many of the failed pumps returned to him still run. He suggests turning it off & banging on it before restoring the plumbing. My failed pump is still electrically hooked up & functioning perfectly in recirculate mode six weeks after failing. Although I have a new Pump, I'm considering restoring the plumbing and pressing on with old one. Changing back to gravity feed is much less problem that removing the tank and replacing the pump. If it fails a second time, I'll replace the Pump.
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Machinery has a mysterious soul and a mind of its own.
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DK
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« Reply #9 on: November 27, 2016, 07:49:19 AM » |
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Is would faster and easier to remove the exhaust on the right side.  My comment above may be misleading. I have a trike. For a complicated reason involving the removed kick stand on a trike, replacing the pump on a bike is easier: Remove the two nuts holding the front of the tank to the kickstand crossmember and loosen the bolts holding the rear of the tank to the exhaust brackets then the front part of tank will drop down allowing access to the pump.
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Machinery has a mysterious soul and a mind of its own.
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bentwrench
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« Reply #10 on: November 28, 2016, 02:29:41 PM » |
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I had trouble with the oe pump RM sent a replacement right away.Since mine only acted up in hot weather and longer rides,I decided to attach a heat shield to my r.exh. header.I made it from a 4x6 inch piece of aluminium sheet stock held on the header w/ 2 worm clamps. It's been 70k miles since and I haven't had single hiccup.Love that belly tank.
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