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Author Topic: Nut Cage Mod  (Read 2001 times)
Harryc
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Posts: 765


Sebastian, Fl


« on: January 02, 2017, 10:49:39 AM »

So due to an unfortunate (ahem) incident, I find myself replacing the rear section of the rear fender on my Tourer. I'd like to try the 175R16 Austone Taxi tire next tire change. So I figured as long as I have the rear fender off this might be a good time to do the nut cage mod. What's the best way to do it, and do I even need to do it for the Austone tire?

Edit: I should have searched first. Found the answer here ... no mod needed. - http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php?topic=34502.0
« Last Edit: January 02, 2017, 11:03:36 AM by Harryc » Logged

gordonv
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Posts: 5762


VRCC # 31419

Richmond BC


« Reply #1 on: January 02, 2017, 11:44:24 AM »

FYI

Here is the How To.

http://lifeisaroad.com/stories/2005/08/24/valkyrieRearFenderNutCageMod.html
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1999 Black with custom paint IS

Harryc
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Sebastian, Fl


« Reply #2 on: January 02, 2017, 12:25:04 PM »

Thanks Gordon....appreciate it.
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Jess from VA
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No VA


« Reply #3 on: January 02, 2017, 01:53:25 PM »

In prep for the taller tire, and when the rear is off, get up under there and eyeball your inside-the-fender wiring and give it any cleanup or support or tucking-in you can.  

Going to my first 205 is when I discovered MY rubbed/partially loose wiring under there (and some rust too).  When I was done, it was better than new.  (and extra shrink wrapped)

After install, pay close attention the first time you ride two up.  Ask her to notify you if she thinks you bottomed out anywhere.

Re the nut cages; most everyone cuts the cages off and deletes the big fat square nuts the cages hold, and replaces them with skinny ones (I did) (or inside-out carriage bolts with nuts on the outside).  Since the Austone is a 175 and even the OE rear is a 180, you can probably safely reuse the big square nuts rather than replacing with little ones.  I suppose the fat nut could rub, but I doubt it... it's the cages that need to go.

That said, every so often (rarely) some valks rear fenders are a bit left or right of normal, and thus have a better chance to rub on one side.  It's almost always the same side, but I cannot remember which.      
« Last Edit: January 02, 2017, 02:05:54 PM by Jess from VA » Logged
The emperor has no clothes
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Posts: 29945


« Reply #4 on: January 02, 2017, 04:29:28 PM »

So due to an unfortunate (ahem) incident, I find myself replacing the rear section of the rear fender on my Tourer. I'd like to try the 175R16 Austone Taxi tire next tire change. So I figured as long as I have the rear fender off this might be a good time to do the nut cage mod. What's the best way to do it, and do I even need to do it for the Austone tire?

Edit: I should have searched first. Found the answer here ... no mod needed. - http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php?topic=34502.0
Harry, I agree with the Austone you don't need to worry about it. But for me I see no good reason to have the cage on there. It sure makes it a lot easier to hold the nut in place without it. This is the write up I used in removing mine.
http://lifeisaroad.com/stories/2005/08/24/valkyrieRearFenderNutCageMod.html
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sixlow
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Posts: 1794


St. Augustine, Fl.


« Reply #5 on: January 02, 2017, 04:45:37 PM »

What we need is a inside fender box mod thread, the Austone tore the sheet metal halves off the fender where it bottomed out, it hides the taillight plug, if you ride 2 up i would remove it now for the ATT and run the plug to the side a bit.
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Harryc
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Posts: 765


Sebastian, Fl


« Reply #6 on: January 03, 2017, 04:00:27 PM »

So due to an unfortunate (ahem) incident, I find myself replacing the rear section of the rear fender on my Tourer. I'd like to try the 175R16 Austone Taxi tire next tire change. So I figured as long as I have the rear fender off this might be a good time to do the nut cage mod. What's the best way to do it, and do I even need to do it for the Austone tire?

Edit: I should have searched first. Found the answer here ... no mod needed. - http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php?topic=34502.0
Harry, I agree with the Austone you don't need to worry about it. But for me I see no good reason to have the cage on there. It sure makes it a lot easier to hold the nut in place without it. This is the write up I used in removing mine.
http://lifeisaroad.com/stories/2005/08/24/valkyrieRearFenderNutCageMod.html


You talked me into it Meathead. I'll do it. Thanks to all for the advice.
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Pappy!
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Posts: 5710


Central Florida - Eustis


« Reply #7 on: January 03, 2017, 06:12:10 PM »

You may also find this thread interesting. Photos and specs in it for you!

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,65849.0.html
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Harryc
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Posts: 765


Sebastian, Fl


« Reply #8 on: January 10, 2017, 06:18:53 PM »

Turns out on the new fender I got the PO already did the nut cage mod. That was easy ...Smiley  It came out Ok I think. Nice of him to throw in the chrome signal and brake light covers, LED brake, tail, and turn signals, the chrome bottom fender trim, and the back-off license plate frame LED setup.  Got the Valkyrie sissy insert from this forum. You guys rock ...



« Last Edit: January 10, 2017, 07:01:02 PM by Harryc » Logged

The emperor has no clothes
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Posts: 29945


« Reply #9 on: January 10, 2017, 06:59:30 PM »

Turns out on the new fender I got the PO already did the nut cage mod. That was easy ...Smiley  It came out Ok I think. Nice of him to throw in the chrome covers, LED brake, tail, and turn signals, the chrome fender trim, and the back-off license plate frame LED setup.  Got the Valkyrie sissy insert from this forum. You guys rock ...




Dude ! You scored  cooldude Looks SWEET !
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Leathel
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Posts: 877


New Zealand


« Reply #10 on: January 10, 2017, 07:08:40 PM »

Good score getting it all painted with the extras ready to fit Cheesy

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Harryc
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Sebastian, Fl


« Reply #11 on: January 11, 2017, 06:09:09 AM »

Good score getting it all painted with the extras ready to fit Cheesy



@Meathead, thanks!. @Leathel, yeah these things hardly ever work out like this. Saw the right color fender on EBay with all the extras for $250 USD. The guy who tapped my fender paid for it. I provided the labor. It's a win...
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Leathel
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Posts: 877


New Zealand


« Reply #12 on: January 12, 2017, 01:21:44 AM »

I hope he shouted you something to drink or something, That could have cost him a lot more!

 I finally managed to get the big girl out on one of our Thursday night rides....missed the last few with bad weather and other commitments and it was a great night to ride Cheesy

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Harryc
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Sebastian, Fl


« Reply #13 on: January 12, 2017, 02:10:58 AM »

I hope he shouted you something to drink or something, That could have cost him a lot more!

 I finally managed to get the big girl out on one of our Thursday night rides....missed the last few with bad weather and other commitments and it was a great night to ride Cheesy




Wow, nice spot and pic. I am glad you're getting some ride time in on the new Valk.
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Relax
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Posts: 322


Power & elegance...just like the Valk

Oslo, Norway


« Reply #14 on: January 12, 2017, 03:52:43 AM »



How and when do you get to know a nut cage mod is requiered?
Is it a wear on the tire?   Is it a sound during riding...if so,,when?  In what situation!?

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Hook#3287
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Posts: 6443


Brimfield, Ma


« Reply #15 on: January 12, 2017, 04:11:39 AM »



How and when do you get to know a nut cage mod is requiered?
Is it a wear on the tire?   Is it a sound during riding...if so,,when?  In what situation!?


it is a requirement when you install most, but not all, car tires.
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Harryc
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Posts: 765


Sebastian, Fl


« Reply #16 on: January 12, 2017, 04:37:50 AM »



How and when do you get to know a nut cage mod is requiered?
Is it a wear on the tire?   Is it a sound during riding...if so,,when?  In what situation!?


it is a requirement when you install most, but not all, car tires.

Hook has it right, and I'll add that it depends on the 'width' of the tires because the nut cages are off to the sides of the fender, not on top.
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #17 on: January 12, 2017, 05:37:14 AM »

I hope he shouted you something to drink or something, That could have cost him a lot more!

 I finally managed to get the big girl out on one of our Thursday night rides....missed the last few with bad weather and other commitments and it was a great night to ride Cheesy


Beautiful pic  cooldude But I'm curious why you Kiwi's ride in a skatepark ?  2funny
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Relax
Member
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Posts: 322


Power & elegance...just like the Valk

Oslo, Norway


« Reply #18 on: January 12, 2017, 05:39:13 AM »



How and when do you get to know a nut cage mod is requiered?
Is it a wear on the tire?   Is it a sound during riding...if so,,when?  In what situation!?


it is a requirement when you install most, but not all, car tires.

I have a car tire....but not nut cage mod.
Sometimes riding 2 up , I feel the bike bottom out in speed bumps...but I am not sure what it is.
I often use 38-41 psi, and i believe i will be better if I encrease the pressure, but i shall then also get a "wrong" wear on the tire = less miles..
I just about never "bottom out" riding single...
For the rest I have no indication I need a nut cage mod. No marks on the tire , no other problem.
I've had 3 different bran car tires,,,no problems...



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Jess from VA
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Posts: 30426


No VA


« Reply #19 on: January 12, 2017, 05:47:25 AM »



How and when do you get to know a nut cage mod is requiered?
Is it a wear on the tire?   Is it a sound during riding...if so,,when?  In what situation!?

For car tires (and maybe for those who run a 200 bike tire in back).  I think it's never (or rarely) heard or felt or smelled; it's seen.  It's wear on the sidewall, near the tread.  It's usually only the right side.  Even with the nut cages removed, I once rubbed the top inside lip of my aftermarket swing arm cover (on the right), when I let the tire get much too low on pressure.  Lowered height (or failing) shocks, and carrying a passenger can contribute to a rub.

Bottoming out is a rub on the tread, not sidewall.  It may rub the fender wiring, not the sidewall.

I am betting you are not an XL person.

Without the mod, you may be OK, but just remember to LOOK for rubs when checking things out, and keep the pressure up (I run 40).  
« Last Edit: January 12, 2017, 05:55:16 AM by Jess from VA » Logged
Relax
Member
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Posts: 322


Power & elegance...just like the Valk

Oslo, Norway


« Reply #20 on: January 12, 2017, 06:31:40 AM »



How and when do you get to know a nut cage mod is requiered?
Is it a wear on the tire?   Is it a sound during riding...if so,,when?  In what situation!?

For car tires (and maybe for those who run a 200 bike tire in back).  I think it's never (or rarely) heard or felt or smelled; it's seen.  It's wear on the sidewall, near the tread.  It's usually only the right side.  Even with the nut cages removed, I once rubbed the top inside lip of my aftermarket swing arm cover (on the right), when I let the tire get much too low on pressure.  Lowered height (or failing) shocks, and carrying a passenger can contribute to a rub.

Bottoming out is a rub on the tread, not sidewall.  It may rub the fender wiring, not the sidewall.

I am betting you are not an XL person.

Without the mod, you may be OK, but just remember to LOOK for rubs when checking things out, and keep the pressure up (I run 40).  

This was what I was looking for, thanks !

"Rubbing fender wiring"   ..and rubing the tread.. ,,with higher air pressure should it rub even more ?

Xl....hmm I am 100 kilo / 188 cm.. is that L or XL....lol..who won the bet  Grin

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Jess from VA
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« Reply #21 on: January 12, 2017, 06:52:23 AM »

I've always thought CTs do best about 40lbs; mine certainly do.  At 30 or so, my tire wiggled, wobbled and slopped through turns, and I hated it. 

More (over less) air pressure will decrease any sidewall rub, and I think it makes no difference at all on a fender wiring rub.  It's not like the tire can get taller with more air (and most have a MAX PSI printed on the side wall of no more than 42-4lbs anyway).  But it can get fatter (wider) with low air.

Well, a number of our membership go XXL and up, and this can lead to suspension or rubbing issues.
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The emperor has no clothes
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Posts: 29945


« Reply #22 on: January 12, 2017, 08:11:01 AM »

I've always thought CTs do best about 40lbs; mine certainly do.  At 30 or so, my tire wiggled, wobbled and slopped through turns, and I hated it. 

More (over less) air pressure will decrease any sidewall rub, and I think it makes no difference at all on a fender wiring rub.  It's not like the tire can get taller with more air (and most have a MAX PSI printed on the side wall of no more than 42-4lbs anyway).  But it can get fatter (wider) with low air.

Well, a number of our membership go XXL and up, and this can lead to suspension or rubbing issues.
Its been my experience that low pressure only makes the tire fatter on the contact with the road. I like pressure at 34-36, but I agree too low and it will squirm at high speed sweepers. Not a good feeling.
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Leathel
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Posts: 877


New Zealand


« Reply #23 on: January 12, 2017, 10:06:20 AM »

Beautiful pic  cooldude But I'm curious why you Kiwi's ride in a skatepark ?  2funny

 Good place to park and rip it on the board........ Nah there is a toilet block there and as we get older we tend to need to stop mid ride Tongue

Good photo spot, better than in front of the toilet block Cheesy
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Leathel
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Posts: 877


New Zealand


« Reply #24 on: January 12, 2017, 10:10:45 AM »



Wow, nice spot and pic. I am glad you're getting some ride time in on the new Valk.

It was good to get out, was away fro two weeks without the bike....then this week was so busy I hadn't got out, was getting withdraw symptoms Tongue

new bars should be here next weeks to try for position ... then will get some custom T bars made when I get the fit right, not used to the factory ones....like pushing a wheel barrow Tongue
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Harryc
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Sebastian, Fl


« Reply #25 on: January 12, 2017, 02:42:21 PM »


new bars should be here next weeks to try for position ... then will get some custom T bars made when I get the fit right, not used to the factory ones....like pushing a wheel barrow Tongue

Wheel barrow ... that's funny. Never thought of it that way. Lol. I might do mini apes eventually. Ran into a VRCC member with them last summer and was interested. He's tall too.
« Last Edit: January 12, 2017, 02:46:31 PM by Harryc » Logged

Pappy!
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Posts: 5710


Central Florida - Eustis


« Reply #26 on: January 12, 2017, 05:27:32 PM »

I've always thought CTs do best about 40lbs; mine certainly do.  At 30 or so, my tire wiggled, wobbled and slopped through turns, and I hated it. 

More (over less) air pressure will decrease any sidewall rub, and I think it makes no difference at all on a fender wiring rub.  It's not like the tire can get taller with more air (and most have a MAX PSI printed on the side wall of no more than 42-4lbs anyway).  But it can get fatter (wider) with low air.

Well, a number of our membership go XXL and up, and this can lead to suspension or rubbing issues.
Its been my experience that low pressure only makes the tire fatter on the contact with the road. I like pressure at 34-36, but I agree too low and it will squirm at high speed sweepers. Not a good feeling.

Yep, 34-36 for me as well. No squirm at all. Most of us down this way run about the same 34-36 as well in our darkside ventures.
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