Floor boards and Hard bags fitted

[Leathel]

I have had my bike for a touch over 1 month and 2 weeks of that I was away and I had to get my old bike ready to sell so I hadn't done much.... But this weekend I put a fair amount of time in to it

 I hadn't been happy with pushing the bike around, foot pegs are right in the wrong place.... I decided to raid the floor boards that fold up from my old bike..... Unfortunately the adapters I had wouldn't work as it would lift the boards to high so out comes the grinder and welder....mount sorted bar the paint on the adapters.








 I have a project of converting a bike in to a trike for the wife that has been on the back burner due to cert regulation changes.... not going to do anything until the new rules are all set in concrete and I have the tie to research them (might be set already... just not ready to work on it) and I had some hard bags for that..... but My bike has no bags, well didn't  

The Wife likes more than pegs for her feet and rather than rob the mini boards from the old bike I figured I could make them part on the hard bag mounts

A few pics of the progress so far

















Dry fit almost done, a little bit of tweaking to do to ensure everything is lining up to what I want.

Then it will be strip them down, paint the frames and floor board adapters and bags, I am not quite set on the design of the paint yet .

I am also thinking I might beef up the Hard bags frame so I can fit a tow bar to it

[hubcapsc]

That's different, and pretty cool. I wish I could fabricate metal, I'm going to
be beating the bushes for someone to fabricate a fender bracket for my 1800 soon...

Have you ever taken the wheel off a Valkyrie yet? Your axle probably won't
go over the pipes with that setup installed... if you take it on and off when
you do maintenance, it looks like you'll have to take care not to scratch
the fender...

-Mike

[Harryc]

Looks great Leathel, it's amazing what you can do with some metal skills. Ditto on the rear wheel. Can't tell from here but just make sure you can remove it before you make things permanent. Just one more thought. Diamond plate looks cool but can get slippery when wet. Maybe some rubber mat glued to it?

[Hook#3287]

Using the two jack method, and he has them, once the shocks are removed, he can lower the rear wheel enough to pull the axle.

[Leathel]

Harryc  Yes I have some thick rubber to glue on that plate, It was just a case of I had the plate, was not going to rust and the right size.

Re Wheel, I am going to run some stone guard where the fame slips is past the guard, takes away the scratch risk, then it is quite easy to remove the frame/bags to make for easy wheel removal. I did think on that.....I was going to do a removable section in the frame but it would take just about as long to unbolt that as the whole frame (only 7 bolts and all are easy to get too)

Nice to know I may be able to get with the two jack method, I could load it across the hoist and that would make it easy to drop the wheel out like I use to on my old Aero I had a few years back




Ohh and I think if I do have to remove the frame the Cage nut system might have to change as it is a PITA to get that top bolt lined up when the nut keeps moving!

 If I can remove the wheel with the frame in place I will likely strengthen the frame and use it to tow a light trailer for camping trips to house tents etc..... and maybe tow my dirt bike to some bike events like the cold kiwi that have hill climbs and riding challenges I don't want to take the Valkyrie on

http://coldkiwi.co.nz/

[gordonv]

I didn't look closely for balance, but if you plan on removing a wheel, you might want to strap it down first, so it won't fall with the remove of the extra weight.

[Pappy!]

That's one Hell of a nice garage!!!

[Leathel]

That's one Hell of a nice garage!!!

Its my workshop, I own/run a panel beating and paint shop, Live just up the road so my bikes live there too.

 Have all the tools to play/ build there

[Leathel]

Work has been very busy but I was keen to get some paint on the bags.....so a quick prep and free hand mask (usually make templates so they mirror the other side) and threw some paint at it.... Looks OK but I will repaint the lids when I get time. Now that I have them fitted they look like they have too much cream from the back view. I am not sure if I will just make the blue spike wider and keep the style the same or run the blue spike down both sides of each bag...

Here are some pics as they are, I like the side view, not so much the rear

[The emperor has no clothes]

I think they look great ! But it's not my bike.

[hubcapsc]

I think your paint job made blah looking bags look great.
I wouldn't change the paint design, either...

-Mike

[Harryc]

Ditto, but I already said that elsewhere. I like it as is ...

[Hook#3287]

and threw some paint at it.... Looks OK but I will repaint the lids when I get time

Really? ???  They look pretty good to me.  You know, for the paint being thrown on and all.

Wish I could throw paint like that.

[Harryc]

@Leathel, I showed pics of your bike to a friend. He's been riding for over 40 years and I respect his opinion on bikes. He said "nice bike!!". For JC to give two exclamation points I am impressed. Leave it alone. Lol
 

[Jess from VA]

I think the paint is pretty nice as is too.  One thing the rear gives you now is bright visibility to the cage drivers behind you. Nice job matching the orange pinstripe.

If I was going to change anything up on the bags (to darken the rear), I think I would copy the front and rear fenders instead the tank, and follow and extend the existing sweeping line of blue along the bag edge down to the bottom of the bag, and paint the entire top centers blue, like the fenders.  You lose the tank matching long spike, but you try to copy the sweep of the tank spike in the line edge between the two colors (like you already have).

You would still have the cream sidewalls all the way back, but darken up the back.

I like that you left the side covers alone.  Two toning them gets too busy.